Ty

Hoyle, Tamiya connectors are not "tamiya". They're a locking 2 pin molex connector that's only good for something like 20amps.

I wonder why people say "lipo" as I melted tamiya connectors on a 7.2v 1500mah pack.

You don't HAVE to replace anything. Even melted, while inconvenient, it wasn't a safety issue. you'll just see much better acceleration, and some higher top speed with good connectors.

I use Deans, when I need connectors. The asian companies call them "T-Connectors." But the Quadcopter people use XT60 and XT30. they're good choices too. A lot of your gear will have XT60 connectors on them too.

I have paint pens. I paint the positive side of my batteries, top and bottom, with red paint. I also put red shrink tube on the positive connection of my ESC. It's hard to screw it up when you have the colors screaming at you like that. Short versus long isn't good enough for me ;-)

Are the set screws on 64 pitch pinion gears usually 1.5 mm or 1/16"?

Depends on the vendor. Robinson racing tends to do 1/16, because their setscrews are 4-40. Other companies, tend to be 1.5mm, becuase they're using m3.

I swapped mine to XT60, because that's what my charger was fitted with. Oh and the standard Tamiya connector was junk. I could tell just by looking at it.

Had a few Dean connecters fail on me. Go with xt60 if you can't plug it directly into battery. Definitely get rid of that Tamiya plug.

Most ESCs will have no plug for the battery, just wires that you'll need to strip and solder a plug to.

There are no restrictions to what ESC you want to use. Entry level to high amp racing ESC, brushed or brushless, depends on what you want.

Does anybody know what tires came with the TT02-R kit? I am trying to figure out if it is an A, B or C.

Thanks

The RCEcho website has a section where you can download the manual. It'll have the part number for the kit tyres in there.

That's an odd sort of place to point them at. RCEcho is a generic toy/hobby sale website.

Here's the manual from Tamiya.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...chassis-kit-2/ That page has a "download manual" link. The tires included are the 51049 tires.

Thank you.

I saw the wheels part number, but did not see the tires on first pass.

If you are racing at Larry's or Bay City there using a reedy 21.5 with locked timing. If your not racing at either one it's up to you what size you want.

Hobbywing. We can't decide on a motor for you. It's a TT02, so..... maybe a 17.5? Remember faster motors mean more broken parts. Honestly, if your'e not racing, you could also go the sensorless route, in which case you need to poke about some other forums. The sensorless crew is kinda light here.

The Tamiya USA and Tamiya JPN websites are hit and miss in terms of downloads in my experience.

RCEcho has yet to fail me.

https://rcecho.com/TAMIYA_RC_Model_M..._Download.html

I would get the hobbywing, and get the program card.

17.5 in TT-02
 

If the car is "only" a basher and you don't have to be d'accord with some racing rules maybe the 17.5 turn combo is getting boring quickly unless you don't optimize final drive ratio things. Without 2nd souce gadgets you cannot achieve lower FDR than 5.74, which is not really that fast...:o
To get some decent speed from a 17.5, you have to get FDR of 4.0 or even lower. To do so, the Yeah Racing motor mount ist needed, this Item has no fixed motor mounting points like the Tamiya part and allows you, in combination with 64dp gears, to get nice gearing for a 17.5 rocket.
You can Check "thercracer.com" for more information about proper TT-02 gearing and additional tons of TT-02 related articles, Tricks and such stuff.
My son (6 years old) is running a 21.5T Hobbywing and SkyRc Toro TS50 ESC Combo on 2S LiPo with his TT-02, FDR is 3.9
This works great for the young man and he has loads of fun to race the local supermarket parking lots! :D

Not sure the number. Just ebay hobbywing program card. It's about $12.

If you aren't going to change the stock gears (22T/70T if i'm not wrong), then a 17.5T brushless will have a lower top speed than a 540 sport tuned brushed motor because a 17.5T brushless turns to ~17000rpm and the brushed motor turns to ~21000rpm. It will however accelerate like a rocket on the standard gearing since it makes 50-100% more power than the brushed motor. You could run 3S for higher top speed if the motor/esc supports it, but you could also just run a 13.5t or 10.5t motor on 2S which would achieve the same thing. It's a lot easier to find hard case 2S batteries that fit the TT02 battery bay.

Ideally, get the 17.5t on 2S and change the gearing by getting the high speed gear set. Toss the supplied gears and buy aftermarket 64dp or 48dp gears. FDR somewhere between 4 and 6 should be good for bashing with a 17.5. Lower than about 4.6FDR will require cutting a hole in the gear cover so the larger pinion clears it. You will want to seal over the hole so dirt doesn't get in when bashing.

Flying dog bones
 

After a few crashes my front dog bones started to come out. Now they fall out even with a minor collision. Checked suspension and didn't see anything broken or bent. I race in stock class so can't install anything different. Anyone know what part I need to replace to stop it from happening?

Anyone have a good starting setup for running on black EOS carpet

Try putting a couple of O-rings on the inside of the cup to keep them more centered.

Tried that. It didn't work.
Something on the suspension is flexing more then it should.
I also tried switching rear cups and dogbone to the front, but it didn't help.

Having the same problem. Getting over it, and want to move on.

Have shimmed the slop out of the front hubs, but not sure what else to do.