1131LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
01-14-2021, 03:44 PM - Wikipost
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03-27-2024, 05:49 AM
#3766
2mm is industry standard for button/flat head and 2.5mm is industry standard for cap head. I would agree the RC Screwz are junk. The Chinesium stainless they are using seems to be softer than aluminum some how! Make sure you are using high end drivers (MIP are gold standard IMO) and only going finger tight.
03-27-2024, 07:44 AM
#3767
Tech Initiate
I'm using primarily Wera drivers. I have a few made in USA (forget what brand) on my bench for smaller sizes as well but I mostly stick to Wera.
Finger tight is impossible when the screws are too long for the holes... They are basically worthless screws.
Finger tight is impossible when the screws are too long for the holes... They are basically worthless screws.
03-27-2024, 07:54 AM
#3768
Quick question. So my son has a euro truck, but he wants to get into tc racing. Is the TT02R a good kit to start off with? And what options would be good to get camber and tow inline. Also im also swapping out the brushed for a more efficient 25.5 brushless system. Dont want to get to crazy with it. Also what tamiya shocks would I need to purchase.
03-27-2024, 08:45 AM
#3769
Quick question. So my son has a euro truck, but he wants to get into tc racing. Is the TT02R a good kit to start off with? And what options would be good to get camber and tow inline. Also im also swapping out the brushed for a more efficient 25.5 brushless system. Dont want to get to crazy with it. Also what tamiya shocks would I need to purchase.
If you're fixated on the TT-02R, then you can get the upper adjustable arm set for pretty cheap that allows for camber adjustment. Seen here:
Tamiya 54874 Adjustable Upper Arm Set / Tamiya USA
Good luck!
Last edited by angrymelon; 03-27-2024 at 08:57 AM.
03-27-2024, 08:52 AM
#3770
If you're looking for Tamiya and brand new, the R is a good affordable option. However, I don't think it's so dramatically different than the Euro truck (maybe that's a good thing?). The R comes with oil super mini CVA shocks which work great, so no need to replace them. If you want to stick to Tamiya and want adjustable camber and toe, you should look at the TT-02 SRX. It's the next real step up before you start getting into the TA08 or higher end Tamiya kits. The SRX is infinitely better than a non-S variant of TT-02, as it comes with more modern touring car suspension with adjustable links and geometry. If you're not tied to Tamiya, then there are loads of affordable options that I've seen suggested across RCTech, including 3Racing, X-press, and others.
Good luck!
Good luck!
03-27-2024, 09:00 AM
#3771
Appreciate it. Yeah i dont want to get to crazy with it, just something fun that he can race it the rookie class. Probably just swap all the electronics over from his euro truck and add a car body and he should be good to go. I have spares so I think its a good thing lol.
03-27-2024, 10:26 AM
#3772
I just built up an R kit and honestly it feels like a solid balance between having enough upgraded elements for the price point but short of trying to make the TT-02 into something it really isn't. Locally there are TT-02 only classes running a spec tire and Torque Tuned motors etc. so at ~$300 total for kit, body. motor, ESC, battery etc. it opens up options to run in some events and dip my toe back into the on-road world again. Sure it isn't an X-ray etc and while it is always fun to be the underdog and perform well against more expensive cars I have realistic expectations for the TT.
I don't want to go totally nuts and end up with a $900 TT-02 just to compete with cars I could have purchased for less with more potential.....
It is a great gateway drug and class racer for similar kits........
I don't want to go totally nuts and end up with a $900 TT-02 just to compete with cars I could have purchased for less with more potential.....
It is a great gateway drug and class racer for similar kits........
03-27-2024, 01:11 PM
#3773
As a side note.......the car felt more predictable with a quick basement test with the adjusted ride height and toe setting.......of course now I have rubber tire marks on the finished floor I have to remove before my wife rips me a new one......so there is that......
Tomorrow will be my first race action in 35 years.......both 2wd Buggy and TT-02. Gotta grab the spec tires when I get there and see if I can get a practice run in. At least the buggy is fairly well dialed in from a weekend practice session at the track.
Tomorrow will be my first race action in 35 years.......both 2wd Buggy and TT-02. Gotta grab the spec tires when I get there and see if I can get a practice run in. At least the buggy is fairly well dialed in from a weekend practice session at the track.
03-27-2024, 01:22 PM
#3774
https://www.yeahracing.com/titanium-...-tt02-00037120
I have used this Yeah Racing screw kit on one of my TT-02 kits. It still uses self tapping screws but had the advantage of having socket heads. This is a nice upgrade if you have already built a basic TT-02 and are tired of using the stock screws. If you do use the stock hex screws, make sure to pick some JIS screwdrivers. Tamiya 74085 is a perfect tool kit for building kits like the TT01/02. Here is a link on TamiyaUSA but know that you can purchase cheaper on many online hobby sites...
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tools/rc-tool-set-2/
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My advice to anyone using M3 machine threaded screws on plastic tub chassis is to use a thread forming tap such at Tamiya 74068 (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...d-forming-tap/). I believe this part may be discontinued.
I have struggled in the past when installing M3 aluminum screws into new Tamiya TT02 lower decks (chassis) even when using a good tool tip/bit. What I do now is at least use a STEEL M3 screw to create the thread into the plastic before I try using softer or lighter screws. Obviously a tap will do a better job cutting a thread. The steel screw does a good enough job most of the time. While this may seem like an extra step, it has saved me from ruining/stripping the socket head on the "good" screws.
If you DO buy a thread forming tap, make sure the pitch of the threads is the same at the pitch of the screws that are being used. The Tamiya tool has a .5 pitch. I tried buying a cheap tap online and it didn't work well for me so I just use an M3 steel screw instead.
I have used this Yeah Racing screw kit on one of my TT-02 kits. It still uses self tapping screws but had the advantage of having socket heads. This is a nice upgrade if you have already built a basic TT-02 and are tired of using the stock screws. If you do use the stock hex screws, make sure to pick some JIS screwdrivers. Tamiya 74085 is a perfect tool kit for building kits like the TT01/02. Here is a link on TamiyaUSA but know that you can purchase cheaper on many online hobby sites...
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tools/rc-tool-set-2/
----------
My advice to anyone using M3 machine threaded screws on plastic tub chassis is to use a thread forming tap such at Tamiya 74068 (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...d-forming-tap/). I believe this part may be discontinued.
I have struggled in the past when installing M3 aluminum screws into new Tamiya TT02 lower decks (chassis) even when using a good tool tip/bit. What I do now is at least use a STEEL M3 screw to create the thread into the plastic before I try using softer or lighter screws. Obviously a tap will do a better job cutting a thread. The steel screw does a good enough job most of the time. While this may seem like an extra step, it has saved me from ruining/stripping the socket head on the "good" screws.
If you DO buy a thread forming tap, make sure the pitch of the threads is the same at the pitch of the screws that are being used. The Tamiya tool has a .5 pitch. I tried buying a cheap tap online and it didn't work well for me so I just use an M3 steel screw instead.
03-27-2024, 02:06 PM
#3775
The easiest way to adjust camber on a Tamiya TT-02/TT-02R kit is to purchase Tamiya 54874 Adjustable Upper Arm set (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...per-arm-set-3/). If you are lucky enough to find a Tamiya TT-02RR kit, it included the adjustable arms. Unfortunately the TT-02RR is discontinued.
I have added the adjustable upper arms on a TT-02R kit that I setup to run GT PRO Spec. They are pretty easy to assemble and install in a stock TT-02.
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If you want to adjust caster on a stock TT-02 or a TT-02R, there are articles online that discuss various ways to modify the car. These mods are typically not legal in most TCS type classes.
A TT-02 with a few Tamiya upgrades on it (aluminum steering/threaded oil filled shocks) can be a decent entry level car that is reasonably durable. If you really like Tamiya kits, the base TT-02 SRX is a better starting point. Unfortunately the SRX does not include adjustable droop screws, but there are aftermarket options for droop (or internal limiters).
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As far as making a stock TT-01 (Eurotruck) more adjustable/more raceable as a touring car, here are a few things to buy. (Note: any of these upgrades would not be allowed in TCS Eurotruck racing)
Tamiya 51217 - lower suspension arms that allow droop screws (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spare...tt01d-b-parts/)
Tamiya 53673 - 2 degree toe-in (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-rear-upright/)
Tamiya 53674 - RC ADJUSTABLE (camber) UPPER ARM SET (Tt-01) - (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...upper-arm-set/)
Of course the biggest limitation on the TT01 is the gearing. There are aftermarket options, but the TT-02 with the high speed gear set and/or a Yeah racing adjustable motor mount is a much easier option.
I have added the adjustable upper arms on a TT-02R kit that I setup to run GT PRO Spec. They are pretty easy to assemble and install in a stock TT-02.
----------
If you want to adjust caster on a stock TT-02 or a TT-02R, there are articles online that discuss various ways to modify the car. These mods are typically not legal in most TCS type classes.
A TT-02 with a few Tamiya upgrades on it (aluminum steering/threaded oil filled shocks) can be a decent entry level car that is reasonably durable. If you really like Tamiya kits, the base TT-02 SRX is a better starting point. Unfortunately the SRX does not include adjustable droop screws, but there are aftermarket options for droop (or internal limiters).
----------
As far as making a stock TT-01 (Eurotruck) more adjustable/more raceable as a touring car, here are a few things to buy. (Note: any of these upgrades would not be allowed in TCS Eurotruck racing)
Tamiya 51217 - lower suspension arms that allow droop screws (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spare...tt01d-b-parts/)
Tamiya 53673 - 2 degree toe-in (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-rear-upright/)
Tamiya 53674 - RC ADJUSTABLE (camber) UPPER ARM SET (Tt-01) - (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...upper-arm-set/)
Of course the biggest limitation on the TT01 is the gearing. There are aftermarket options, but the TT-02 with the high speed gear set and/or a Yeah racing adjustable motor mount is a much easier option.
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 03-28-2024 at 10:02 AM.
03-27-2024, 03:45 PM
#3776
My advice to anyone using M3 machine threaded screws on plastic tub chassis is to use a thread forming tap such at Tamiya 74068 (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...d-forming-tap/). I believe this part may be discontinued.
I have struggled in the past when installing M3 aluminum screws into new Tamiya TT02 lower decks (chassis) even when using a good tool tip/bit. What I do now is at least use a STEEL M3 screw to create the thread into the plastic before I try using softer or lighter screws. Obviously a tap will do a better job cutting a thread. The steel screw does a good enough job most of the time. While this may seem like an extra step, it has saved me from ruining/stripping the socket head on the "good" screws.
If you DO buy a thread forming tap, make sure the pitch of the threads is the same at the pitch of the screws that are being used. The Tamiya tool has a .5 pitch. I tried buying a cheap tap online and it didn't work well for me so I just use an M3 steel screw instead.
I have struggled in the past when installing M3 aluminum screws into new Tamiya TT02 lower decks (chassis) even when using a good tool tip/bit. What I do now is at least use a STEEL M3 screw to create the thread into the plastic before I try using softer or lighter screws. Obviously a tap will do a better job cutting a thread. The steel screw does a good enough job most of the time. While this may seem like an extra step, it has saved me from ruining/stripping the socket head on the "good" screws.
If you DO buy a thread forming tap, make sure the pitch of the threads is the same at the pitch of the screws that are being used. The Tamiya tool has a .5 pitch. I tried buying a cheap tap online and it didn't work well for me so I just use an M3 steel screw instead.
03-27-2024, 09:38 PM
#3777
Tech Initiate
angrymelon IndyRC_Racer PROMODVETTE
I am thinking of switching over to the Yeah Racing titanium self-tapping set. If I remove the steel machine screws from the RC Screwz set will I be able to put the wider thread parts in the same holes without causing damage?
Or, since I've already started assembling with machine screws, would I be better off sourcing some higher quality steel machine screws and using a tap, e.g. Tamiya 54232 with 74086 (I actually already have an M3x0.5 tap)? Another thing I will do is use shorter lengths if I am using machine screws because the holes don't seem to be intended for full length machine screws.
edit: I ordered the MIP 3-piece set. The Wera I have aren't stripping but they are more precision screwdrivers (even the fat handle version, which is good).
I am thinking of switching over to the Yeah Racing titanium self-tapping set. If I remove the steel machine screws from the RC Screwz set will I be able to put the wider thread parts in the same holes without causing damage?
Or, since I've already started assembling with machine screws, would I be better off sourcing some higher quality steel machine screws and using a tap, e.g. Tamiya 54232 with 74086 (I actually already have an M3x0.5 tap)? Another thing I will do is use shorter lengths if I am using machine screws because the holes don't seem to be intended for full length machine screws.
edit: I ordered the MIP 3-piece set. The Wera I have aren't stripping but they are more precision screwdrivers (even the fat handle version, which is good).
Last edited by RCscale; 03-28-2024 at 08:20 AM.
03-28-2024, 08:30 AM
#3778
angrymelon IndyRC_Racer PROMODVETTE
I am thinking of switching over to the Yeah Racing titanium self-tapping set. If I remove the steel machine screws from the RC Screwz set will I be able to put the wider thread parts in the same holes without causing damage?
Or, since I've already started assembling with machine screws, would I be better off sourcing some higher quality steel machine screws and using a tap, e.g. Tamiya 54232 with 74086 (I actually already have an M3x0.5 tap)? Another thing I will do is use shorter lengths if I am using machine screws because the holes don't seem to be intended for full length machine screws.
I am thinking of switching over to the Yeah Racing titanium self-tapping set. If I remove the steel machine screws from the RC Screwz set will I be able to put the wider thread parts in the same holes without causing damage?
Or, since I've already started assembling with machine screws, would I be better off sourcing some higher quality steel machine screws and using a tap, e.g. Tamiya 54232 with 74086 (I actually already have an M3x0.5 tap)? Another thing I will do is use shorter lengths if I am using machine screws because the holes don't seem to be intended for full length machine screws.
Here is my theory with Tamiya's in general, but the TT-02 specifically. If you're buying a base kit that comes with self-tappers, I always try to use machine thread screws in at least the parts that have a possible Hop-Up. If you decide to later upgrade it with parts like the steering rack, or even just adjustable toe links, oil shocks, etc, you'll find yourself needing to put the included machine threaded screws/ball-ends, into holes that were previously self-tappers /insert sad trombone. My standard build configuration these days is to use machine thread on the places that allow hop-ups, and then stick to self-tappers on some of the common sharable parts (e.g. body posts, battery posts, uprights etc). This might sound like lunacy, probably because it is, but I have a fleet of TT-02 and I've found myself slowly upgrading them at different points in their life that this makes it more enjoyable.
Always going full machine thread is probably the best option, but the choice is yours.Good luck!
03-28-2024, 10:46 AM
#3779
One of the reasons I like the TT-02 is that the lower deck/chassis are inexpensive. Here are links/parts numbers for both the regular and hard lower decks.
Tamiya 51532 TT-02 lower deck (stock) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spare...02-lower-deck/
Tamiya 54926 TT-02 lower deck (hard) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-lower-deck-3/
You can usually find/buy these lower decks on many online stores such as A-main, Amazon, Horizon Hobby, Tower Hobbies, etc. and it should be easy to order one through a local hobby store.
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As to swapping a 3mm screw for a self-tapping screw, yes I have done that on my TT-02. I was not careful when taking off/installing the spur gear cover on a TT-02 kit that was using 3mm screws (there are 4 screws that hold on the spur gear cover). Eventually I stripped one of the 3mm screw holes so I used a self-tapping screw. The self tapping screw held the cover well, but I made sure to not overtighten those screws. Eventually I replaced the whole chassis, but I felt it was a good semi-permanent/temporary fix.
I was racing this particular TT-02S kit in VTA, so I was changing gears/taking out the motor more than most people probably would on a TT-02. I also was using a Yeah Racing adjustable motor mount and didn't set gear mesh properly on 64 pitch gears (my fault/was in a hurry). I replaced the spur to continue racing that event, but eventually switched to 48 pitch gears which give a little more wiggle room if you don't get mesh perfect. I probably had changed gearing or removed the gear cover on that car at least a dozen times.
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I did a quick YouTube search and found the following video of an individual showing a good technique on how not to cross thread existing holes in plastic parts. This person was demonstrating on a plastic Tamiya CC chassis using self-tapping screws. Here is the link...
https://youtu.be/WYHwXix1dqo?feature=shared
Tamiya 51532 TT-02 lower deck (stock) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spare...02-lower-deck/
Tamiya 54926 TT-02 lower deck (hard) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-lower-deck-3/
You can usually find/buy these lower decks on many online stores such as A-main, Amazon, Horizon Hobby, Tower Hobbies, etc. and it should be easy to order one through a local hobby store.
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As to swapping a 3mm screw for a self-tapping screw, yes I have done that on my TT-02. I was not careful when taking off/installing the spur gear cover on a TT-02 kit that was using 3mm screws (there are 4 screws that hold on the spur gear cover). Eventually I stripped one of the 3mm screw holes so I used a self-tapping screw. The self tapping screw held the cover well, but I made sure to not overtighten those screws. Eventually I replaced the whole chassis, but I felt it was a good semi-permanent/temporary fix.
I was racing this particular TT-02S kit in VTA, so I was changing gears/taking out the motor more than most people probably would on a TT-02. I also was using a Yeah Racing adjustable motor mount and didn't set gear mesh properly on 64 pitch gears (my fault/was in a hurry). I replaced the spur to continue racing that event, but eventually switched to 48 pitch gears which give a little more wiggle room if you don't get mesh perfect. I probably had changed gearing or removed the gear cover on that car at least a dozen times.
----------
I did a quick YouTube search and found the following video of an individual showing a good technique on how not to cross thread existing holes in plastic parts. This person was demonstrating on a plastic Tamiya CC chassis using self-tapping screws. Here is the link...
https://youtu.be/WYHwXix1dqo?feature=shared
03-28-2024, 11:21 AM
#3780
As far as screw length goes, generally speaking you do not want to use a longer than stock screw on plastic tub chassis. If you bottom out the screw into the hole and try to keeping tightening the screw, you risk cracking the plastic. I have made this mistake when installing the 2 long screws that hold the plastic bumpers to the chassis (keep the lower a-arm secured). In my case I was swapping out the rear toe piece between a TT-02S and a TT-02 SR. These 2 cars use different length screws because the S kit instructions use the plastic rear bumper and the SR kit does not. Because I wasn't paying attention I actually weakened the plastic so much on the chassis that it broke during a mild racing accident. I had to replace the chassis.
If you aren't sure how long of a screw you need, you should be able to use a 2mm hex screwdriver or an allen tool as a depth gauge for screw length. Make sure you account for the thickness of any part that is installed over the hole you are measuring. Again I forgot to do this when the part I was using didn't require a rear bumper and used too long of a screw.
Always pay attention if you are using longer than stock screws when installing steering knuckles to the a-arms or gearbox covers. You want to make sure those screws aren't too long and come in contact with moving parts such as axles.or input shafts.
If you aren't sure how long of a screw you need, you should be able to use a 2mm hex screwdriver or an allen tool as a depth gauge for screw length. Make sure you account for the thickness of any part that is installed over the hole you are measuring. Again I forgot to do this when the part I was using didn't require a rear bumper and used too long of a screw.
Always pay attention if you are using longer than stock screws when installing steering knuckles to the a-arms or gearbox covers. You want to make sure those screws aren't too long and come in contact with moving parts such as axles.or input shafts.