1131LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
01-14-2021, 03:44 PM - Wikipost
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03-28-2024, 05:52 PM
#3781
do the X-ray springs work on the super short big bore shocks? the 42306 spring package is sold out every where
which xray springs are for the super short big bore Tamiya shocks
which xray springs are for the super short big bore Tamiya shocks
03-28-2024, 07:43 PM
#3782
Just got done with my first racing in 35years........spec tires were Powerhobby brand.......so I picked up a set and quickly glued them up. Very drifty and no they weren't their drift car tires, just a spec touring car tire with a typical pattern. I will need to experiment.
Practice was all oversteer all the time, first I tried stiffening up the front springs, that didn't do much. Since I didn't know what the stock Tamiya shock oil in the CVAs was I dumped the front and put in Losi 45wt and decided to just work with whatever that gave me, What it gave me was a car that would step out in the rear end with anything approaching full throttle, but with decent throttle control I could get it around the track. First heat was a mess......pinion came loose. Thread locker applied in between heats.
Second heat I just accepted I had a drift car for the night and leaned into that and put up a great fight losing second place in the last turn but everyone said it was some entertaining racing considering it has been 35years since I last was on the track with anyone.......
The main was fine......3rd of 4 in the main.......but the ball joint on the servo save snapped at the end.....whatever.
Now I just have to install some of the reliability parts as they come in which will include the upgraded steering components.
All in all.......fun car.....took a beating.....Thankfully.
Practice was all oversteer all the time, first I tried stiffening up the front springs, that didn't do much. Since I didn't know what the stock Tamiya shock oil in the CVAs was I dumped the front and put in Losi 45wt and decided to just work with whatever that gave me, What it gave me was a car that would step out in the rear end with anything approaching full throttle, but with decent throttle control I could get it around the track. First heat was a mess......pinion came loose. Thread locker applied in between heats.
Second heat I just accepted I had a drift car for the night and leaned into that and put up a great fight losing second place in the last turn but everyone said it was some entertaining racing considering it has been 35years since I last was on the track with anyone.......
The main was fine......3rd of 4 in the main.......but the ball joint on the servo save snapped at the end.....whatever.
Now I just have to install some of the reliability parts as they come in which will include the upgraded steering components.
All in all.......fun car.....took a beating.....Thankfully.
03-29-2024, 01:28 AM
#3783
Tech Initiate
I would not run self-tappers in after you've already used machine thread screws. Personally if it's affordable for you, I would buy one of the Square titanium sets or equivalent. I don't see the full titanium set on Amazon at the moment (just the aluminum and titanium mix) but I got one for less than $30 shipped for free. The quality is actually pretty decent, and I didn't have a single issue with one stripping, or even getting an ill-fitting hex head.
Here is my theory with Tamiya's in general, but the TT-02 specifically. If you're buying a base kit that comes with self-tappers, I always try to use machine thread screws in at least the parts that have a possible Hop-Up. If you decide to later upgrade it with parts like the steering rack, or even just adjustable toe links, oil shocks, etc, you'll find yourself needing to put the included machine threaded screws/ball-ends, into holes that were previously self-tappers /insert sad trombone. My standard build configuration these days is to use machine thread on the places that allow hop-ups, and then stick to self-tappers on some of the common sharable parts (e.g. body posts, battery posts, uprights etc). This might sound like lunacy, probably because it is, but I have a fleet of TT-02 and I've found myself slowly upgrading them at different points in their life that this makes it more enjoyable.
Always going full machine thread is probably the best option, but the choice is yours.
Good luck!
Here is my theory with Tamiya's in general, but the TT-02 specifically. If you're buying a base kit that comes with self-tappers, I always try to use machine thread screws in at least the parts that have a possible Hop-Up. If you decide to later upgrade it with parts like the steering rack, or even just adjustable toe links, oil shocks, etc, you'll find yourself needing to put the included machine threaded screws/ball-ends, into holes that were previously self-tappers /insert sad trombone. My standard build configuration these days is to use machine thread on the places that allow hop-ups, and then stick to self-tappers on some of the common sharable parts (e.g. body posts, battery posts, uprights etc). This might sound like lunacy, probably because it is, but I have a fleet of TT-02 and I've found myself slowly upgrading them at different points in their life that this makes it more enjoyable.
Always going full machine thread is probably the best option, but the choice is yours.Good luck!
As far as screw length goes, generally speaking you do not want to use a longer than stock screw on plastic tub chassis. If you bottom out the screw into the hole and try to keeping tightening the screw, you risk cracking the plastic. I have made this mistake when installing the 2 long screws that hold the plastic bumpers to the chassis (keep the lower a-arm secured). In my case I was swapping out the rear toe piece between a TT-02S and a TT-02 SR. These 2 cars use different length screws because the S kit instructions use the plastic rear bumper and the SR kit does not. Because I wasn't paying attention I actually weakened the plastic so much on the chassis that it broke during a mild racing accident. I had to replace the chassis.
If you aren't sure how long of a screw you need, you should be able to use a 2mm hex screwdriver or an allen tool as a depth gauge for screw length. Make sure you account for the thickness of any part that is installed over the hole you are measuring. Again I forgot to do this when the part I was using didn't require a rear bumper and used too long of a screw.
Always pay attention if you are using longer than stock screws when installing steering knuckles to the a-arms or gearbox covers. You want to make sure those screws aren't too long and come in contact with moving parts such as axles.or input shafts.
If you aren't sure how long of a screw you need, you should be able to use a 2mm hex screwdriver or an allen tool as a depth gauge for screw length. Make sure you account for the thickness of any part that is installed over the hole you are measuring. Again I forgot to do this when the part I was using didn't require a rear bumper and used too long of a screw.
Always pay attention if you are using longer than stock screws when installing steering knuckles to the a-arms or gearbox covers. You want to make sure those screws aren't too long and come in contact with moving parts such as axles.or input shafts.
I have the MIP drivers coming, as well as some more of what should be "reasonable quality" stainless screws. Biggest thing I think I need to figure out is if the cap heads I already have on hand will fit everywhere on the chassis or if they would bump up against stuff in some places. If I run into that I will get button head as well.
03-29-2024, 08:33 AM
#3784
I can find the Square ST-252 kit on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-scre...dp/B00D3UU0HM/) and eBay but only shipping from Japan. I had wanted to continue assembling the kit rather than wait for more parts. I would prefer something like that kit though - know any similar sets that would be in stock in the US?
03-29-2024, 11:43 AM
#3785
Tech Apprentice
Just got done with my first racing in 35years........spec tires were Powerhobby brand.......so I picked up a set and quickly glued them up. Very drifty and no they weren't their drift car tires, just a spec touring car tire with a typical pattern. I will need to experiment.
Practice was all oversteer all the time, first I tried stiffening up the front springs, that didn't do much. Since I didn't know what the stock Tamiya shock oil in the CVAs was I dumped the front and put in Losi 45wt and decided to just work with whatever that gave me, What it gave me was a car that would step out in the rear end with anything approaching full throttle, but with decent throttle control I could get it around the track. First heat was a mess......pinion came loose. Thread locker applied in between heats.
Second heat I just accepted I had a drift car for the night and leaned into that and put up a great fight losing second place in the last turn but everyone said it was some entertaining racing considering it has been 35years since I last was on the track with anyone.......
The main was fine......3rd of 4 in the main.......but the ball joint on the servo save snapped at the end.....whatever.
Now I just have to install some of the reliability parts as they come in which will include the upgraded steering components.
All in all.......fun car.....took a beating.....Thankfully.
Practice was all oversteer all the time, first I tried stiffening up the front springs, that didn't do much. Since I didn't know what the stock Tamiya shock oil in the CVAs was I dumped the front and put in Losi 45wt and decided to just work with whatever that gave me, What it gave me was a car that would step out in the rear end with anything approaching full throttle, but with decent throttle control I could get it around the track. First heat was a mess......pinion came loose. Thread locker applied in between heats.
Second heat I just accepted I had a drift car for the night and leaned into that and put up a great fight losing second place in the last turn but everyone said it was some entertaining racing considering it has been 35years since I last was on the track with anyone.......
The main was fine......3rd of 4 in the main.......but the ball joint on the servo save snapped at the end.....whatever.
Now I just have to install some of the reliability parts as they come in which will include the upgraded steering components.
All in all.......fun car.....took a beating.....Thankfully.
03-29-2024, 12:04 PM
#3786
Only one local guy was saucing and he kept saying "I hate saucing" then proceeded to have a car on rails.....lol. So sauce is on the way, but I want the sauce to be the cherry on top not a band aid for a crap setup if I can avoid it.
Anyone have a read on what viscosity the Tamiya stock oil is? Just curious what I have in the back still.....
03-29-2024, 07:33 PM
#3787
Tech Initiate
Yep, that is the same exact kit that I purchased. I understand not wanting to wait, however, I don't know any other sources that might have what you're after. One nice thing about the TT-02 is that the majority of the screws are all the same m3x10, so if you can source some of those you can at least get the majority of the way there.
03-29-2024, 07:51 PM
#3788
I ordered a high tensile screw kit from these guys for another car. The screws were high quality hard steel not the soft junk.
https://rc-schrauben.de/index.php?jt...=tt-02&search=
https://rc-schrauben.de/index.php?jt...=tt-02&search=
03-30-2024, 12:06 AM
#3789
Tech Initiate
I ordered a high tensile screw kit from these guys for another car. The screws were high quality hard steel not the soft junk.
https://rc-schrauben.de/index.php?jt...=tt-02&search=
https://rc-schrauben.de/index.php?jt...=tt-02&search=
Biggest thing that helped me was switching to cap head screws wherever possible (almost all of the M3x10 can be replaced with M3x8 cap head - or 10mm if you are brave). The larger socket of a cap head is an amazing difference, and they are just easier to handle in general. In the unlikely event you stripped a cap head, pliers might be able to get it out still.
The MIP tools are quite nice. Not sure they are any harder steel than the Wera tools I had already, but the beefy screwdriver handles are nice. Luckily one of my precision screwdriver sets had a bit for the JIS screws, which I agree is completely mandatory - Phillips will not fit that.
On a related note (ordering parts from Germany), I ordered light buckets from tamico.de. Look to be good quality, 3d printed, all lights in the tail clusters modeled. Should make my A4 Quattro body pop. Tamiya has backed off including nice light buckets which is a real shame - all the ones with plastic/chrome light buckets that I know of are TT-01. Lexan light buckets do not cut it. I would've gotten a McLaren Senna if only there were some light bucket options for it - I know its lights are a bit complicated but still...
03-30-2024, 07:28 AM
#3790
Tech Initiate
I'm finding it impossible to fully tighten the wheel nuts on my TT-02, whether with the included tool, or a dedicated tool with a handle. How hard should it be to tighten them? Getting it as tight as I can, the hub cap piece is still loose and barely catching the circles on the wheel itself. Any advice? Thanks.
edit: I should add that I have the Yeah Racing front drive shaft which is where I am having some trouble - once it hits the rubber stopper it will not tighten more.
edit2: I think the issue is that I didn't screw the hubcaps to the wheel. The main TT02 directions don't show that, maybe the body directions do.
edit3: Car running! Seems to be running great. Now for the body. Thanks to all for help.
edit: I should add that I have the Yeah Racing front drive shaft which is where I am having some trouble - once it hits the rubber stopper it will not tighten more.
edit2: I think the issue is that I didn't screw the hubcaps to the wheel. The main TT02 directions don't show that, maybe the body directions do.
edit3: Car running! Seems to be running great. Now for the body. Thanks to all for help.
Last edited by RCscale; 03-30-2024 at 09:37 AM.
03-31-2024, 09:15 AM
#3791
Happy Sunday......Easter for some.....
I spent some time this morning working on the TT-02, installing some small obvious and needed upgrades like adding the damn heatsink (yes I know weight but also easily removed), aluminum wheel hubs, enough with those plastic POS things......
I also pulled the rear CVAs and took care of some of the droop with a rubber donut internally on the shaft and for now I refilled the rears with the Tamiya oil (anyone know the actual weight of that oil?). I then went about trying to get my ride height dialed since I am on flat carpet. My original measurement was ~12mm rear which is darn high. I dropped the shock mounting ball joint to the lower position and of course that got me to about 6mm with one pre-load spacer in. Front is about 1-2mm higher for now.
Aluminum steering parts are coming in tomorrow or Tuesday so I will then address the front end and probably take the opportunity to pack the front diff with heavier grease to tighten things up a bit. I am also going on the sauce this week......
I will also need to do some body trimming due to the new ride height.
What horrible mistakes am I making so far? Or am I directionally heading the right way to hopefully gaining some more traction in the rear while hopefully still being able to actually steer.....
I spent some time this morning working on the TT-02, installing some small obvious and needed upgrades like adding the damn heatsink (yes I know weight but also easily removed), aluminum wheel hubs, enough with those plastic POS things......
I also pulled the rear CVAs and took care of some of the droop with a rubber donut internally on the shaft and for now I refilled the rears with the Tamiya oil (anyone know the actual weight of that oil?). I then went about trying to get my ride height dialed since I am on flat carpet. My original measurement was ~12mm rear which is darn high. I dropped the shock mounting ball joint to the lower position and of course that got me to about 6mm with one pre-load spacer in. Front is about 1-2mm higher for now.
Aluminum steering parts are coming in tomorrow or Tuesday so I will then address the front end and probably take the opportunity to pack the front diff with heavier grease to tighten things up a bit. I am also going on the sauce this week......
I will also need to do some body trimming due to the new ride height.
What horrible mistakes am I making so far? Or am I directionally heading the right way to hopefully gaining some more traction in the rear while hopefully still being able to actually steer.....
03-31-2024, 03:24 PM
#3792
Tech Apprentice
Happy Sunday......Easter for some.....
I spent some time this morning working on the TT-02, installing some small obvious and needed upgrades like adding the damn heatsink (yes I know weight but also easily removed), aluminum wheel hubs, enough with those plastic POS things......
I also pulled the rear CVAs and took care of some of the droop with a rubber donut internally on the shaft and for now I refilled the rears with the Tamiya oil (anyone know the actual weight of that oil?). I then went about trying to get my ride height dialed since I am on flat carpet. My original measurement was ~12mm rear which is darn high. I dropped the shock mounting ball joint to the lower position and of course that got me to about 6mm with one pre-load spacer in. Front is about 1-2mm higher for now.
Aluminum steering parts are coming in tomorrow or Tuesday so I will then address the front end and probably take the opportunity to pack the front diff with heavier grease to tighten things up a bit. I am also going on the sauce this week......
I will also need to do some body trimming due to the new ride height.
What horrible mistakes am I making so far? Or am I directionally heading the right way to hopefully gaining some more traction in the rear while hopefully still being able to actually steer.....
I spent some time this morning working on the TT-02, installing some small obvious and needed upgrades like adding the damn heatsink (yes I know weight but also easily removed), aluminum wheel hubs, enough with those plastic POS things......
I also pulled the rear CVAs and took care of some of the droop with a rubber donut internally on the shaft and for now I refilled the rears with the Tamiya oil (anyone know the actual weight of that oil?). I then went about trying to get my ride height dialed since I am on flat carpet. My original measurement was ~12mm rear which is darn high. I dropped the shock mounting ball joint to the lower position and of course that got me to about 6mm with one pre-load spacer in. Front is about 1-2mm higher for now.
Aluminum steering parts are coming in tomorrow or Tuesday so I will then address the front end and probably take the opportunity to pack the front diff with heavier grease to tighten things up a bit. I am also going on the sauce this week......
I will also need to do some body trimming due to the new ride height.
What horrible mistakes am I making so far? Or am I directionally heading the right way to hopefully gaining some more traction in the rear while hopefully still being able to actually steer.....
03-31-2024, 03:42 PM
#3793
Definitely have your front lower than your rear.. the heatsink doesn’t really help much, just takes an extra minute for the motor to get hot.. if you are running the torque tuned motor.. they seem to like running hot.. you will wear out the brushes before you cook the magnets.. and since they are cheap.. just replace it when you see ‘gold’ dust coming out 🖖
I will get the front lower but I am not going to work on that until I rebuild the steering rack, add the metal ball pivots to the front A-Arms etc. Once I get it all together I will work on lowering the front. I tested the bottom shock ball joint in the lower hole but that was WAY too low. I prefer to drop the front to 5mm and leave the back as is and see how it runs.
While I was able to drive the car competitively in last week's races in semi-drift mode, that isn't exactly what I am shooting for. A little slide is fine as long as it is predictable and not true under/oversteer.
04-01-2024, 09:41 AM
#3794
Tech Initiate
I had the heat sink so I threw it on.....but yeah I don't expect much out of it and frankly at like $17 the motors are 100% disposable......that piece may stay off unless I need to balance the right side, but I doubt that will be needed as weight bias was a touch to the right anyways.
I will get the front lower but I am not going to work on that until I rebuild the steering rack, add the metal ball pivots to the front A-Arms etc. Once I get it all together I will work on lowering the front. I tested the bottom shock ball joint in the lower hole but that was WAY too low. I prefer to drop the front to 5mm and leave the back as is and see how it runs.
While I was able to drive the car competitively in last week's races in semi-drift mode, that isn't exactly what I am shooting for. A little slide is fine as long as it is predictable and not true under/oversteer.
I will get the front lower but I am not going to work on that until I rebuild the steering rack, add the metal ball pivots to the front A-Arms etc. Once I get it all together I will work on lowering the front. I tested the bottom shock ball joint in the lower hole but that was WAY too low. I prefer to drop the front to 5mm and leave the back as is and see how it runs.
While I was able to drive the car competitively in last week's races in semi-drift mode, that isn't exactly what I am shooting for. A little slide is fine as long as it is predictable and not true under/oversteer.
How much does weight affect racing performance?
04-01-2024, 10:06 AM
#3795
As for overall weight, I am far from an expert but the touring class min is 1320 grams so I can clearly put the car on a diet if I wanted to. Although I am about to add some aluminum parts for durability like steering assembly etc. so I am kinda porking it up a bit.....