Tamiya TT02 Thread
#3677
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 4
TAM53792 + TAM54477
or just start with a TT02R. The metal dogbones don’t seem to pop at our track.
#3678
He asked for some simple trick or workarounds, like maybe a piece of foam or an o-ring, etc. for a box-stock class. Not $50 hop-up parts or a different chassis version (which is also more expensive - not just by kit price, but on top of that the R comes without motor, ESC and body).
For the original question: there's not all that much you can do without spending some serious money (in relation to the normal standard kit price) to move away from strict box stock. Dog bones just suck, and are usually not part of any racing kits any more - for good reason. All I can think of (short of replacing them with universals or even DCJs) is to limit the steering angle on the radio and/or insert some (more) foam or O-rings in the outdrives (make sure it doesn't bind), if that doesn't help, I'm afraid, you only can heed the advice to no longer hit the walls or get everyone to invest in some hop-up parts and leave the strict box-stock idea behind for a strictly limited-tuning class (which is a good idea anyway, since true box stock would not even allow ball bearings on these cheap Tamiya kits - and these are a must IMO).
For the original question: there's not all that much you can do without spending some serious money (in relation to the normal standard kit price) to move away from strict box stock. Dog bones just suck, and are usually not part of any racing kits any more - for good reason. All I can think of (short of replacing them with universals or even DCJs) is to limit the steering angle on the radio and/or insert some (more) foam or O-rings in the outdrives (make sure it doesn't bind), if that doesn't help, I'm afraid, you only can heed the advice to no longer hit the walls or get everyone to invest in some hop-up parts and leave the strict box-stock idea behind for a strictly limited-tuning class (which is a good idea anyway, since true box stock would not even allow ball bearings on these cheap Tamiya kits - and these are a must IMO).
#3679
We run a class called Production TT02 here. Almost box stock builds.
Only allowed ball bearings, USGT tires, universal joints and some mods that do not improve performance but improves reliability.
My original club allowed esc up to $80. The new club I run allows Hobbywing 1080, LiHV and the high torque servo saver.
I use the Yeah Racing universal joints and cups, as chasing dog bones was SO annoying.
#3680
If your rules allow parts other than Tamiya you can buy universals or cvd's from other companies. But, you have to buy the outdrives to match. Someone else gave you the Tamiya part numbers.
#3681
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,104
He asked for some simple trick or workarounds, like maybe a piece of foam or an o-ring, etc. for a box-stock class. Not $50 hop-up parts or a different chassis version (which is also more expensive - not just by kit price, but on top of that the R comes without motor, ESC and body).
For the original question: there's not all that much you can do without spending some serious money (in relation to the normal standard kit price) to move away from strict box stock. Dog bones just suck, and are usually not part of any racing kits any more - for good reason. All I can think of (short of replacing them with universals or even DCJs) is to limit the steering angle on the radio and/or insert some (more) foam or O-rings in the outdrives (make sure it doesn't bind), if that doesn't help, I'm afraid, you only can heed the advice to no longer hit the walls or get everyone to invest in some hop-up parts and leave the strict box-stock idea behind for a strictly limited-tuning class (which is a good idea anyway, since true box stock would not even allow ball bearings on these cheap Tamiya kits - and these are a must IMO).
For the original question: there's not all that much you can do without spending some serious money (in relation to the normal standard kit price) to move away from strict box stock. Dog bones just suck, and are usually not part of any racing kits any more - for good reason. All I can think of (short of replacing them with universals or even DCJs) is to limit the steering angle on the radio and/or insert some (more) foam or O-rings in the outdrives (make sure it doesn't bind), if that doesn't help, I'm afraid, you only can heed the advice to no longer hit the walls or get everyone to invest in some hop-up parts and leave the strict box-stock idea behind for a strictly limited-tuning class (which is a good idea anyway, since true box stock would not even allow ball bearings on these cheap Tamiya kits - and these are a must IMO).
Quit hitting things.
#3682
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,104
Want to know what helps encourage beginners to get better at driving? Encouraging them to run the middle, so they don't hit walls/rails and inexpensive kits that are easy to work on when they do hit things (which they need to quit doing).
#3683
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 223
What to know how to encourage people to race? help not troll them and act like your a racing god. Try not being a problem but a solution. Like this
No idea if this could work but maybe limit the side to side movement of the dog bone by having a oring or a sponge insert in the cups keeping the dog bone from sliding into one cup more then the othe and popping. hope this is helpfull
#3687
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 28
Yea but he was probably trolled and hazed when he started. The hobby is filled with folks who elevate their egos at the expense of the newbies. It happens all too frequently. Either get good, get a thicker skin for get the heck out. It's super sad. I remember back in the 90's when you would show up to a track and the vast majority of the racers would talk with you, answer questions and give you pointers on how to improve. Now it's "don't hit stuff". As with just about everything else in life now, it's not the 90's anymore.
#3688
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 223
Yea but he was probably trolled and hazed when he started. The hobby is filled with folks who elevate their egos at the expense of the newbies. It happens all too frequently. Either get good, get a thicker skin for get the heck out. It's super sad. I remember back in the 90's when you would show up to a track and the vast majority of the racers would talk with you, answer questions and give you pointers on how to improve. Now it's "don't hit stuff". As with just about everything else in life now, it's not the 90's anymore.
#3689
...). Problem is, it's not the fitting solution for beginners and even some intermediate drivers. So please stop being so toxic. Just pass on.100%.
Yea but he was probably trolled and hazed when he started. The hobby is filled with folks who elevate their egos at the expense of the newbies. It happens all too frequently. Either get good, get a thicker skin for get the heck out. It's super sad. I remember back in the 90's when you would show up to a track and the vast majority of the racers would talk with you, answer questions and give you pointers on how to improve. Now it's "don't hit stuff". As with just about everything else in life now, it's not the 90's anymore.
#3690
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,104
Centering the shafts and limiting steering throw will help to a point. Then when the hits become more than "slight", the dog bones will still come out. The next option would be to quit hitting stuff. This option also eliminates the need for the first two options, so why not go there first?





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