We started running the TT02 class and we are having fun. One guy our state champion with a box stock beat us with on hopped up kits. Now I'm doing a realist looking Datsun 240 Z #33 Paul Newman car. Can't find a 280ZX but . I'm also working with my light guy for working brake lights and headlights. I have them on my F!- when you hit the brakes they blink and go when not braking. When I get it done I'll let everyone know but it will not be anytime soon as my light guy is also working on our other project a timed pit stop for our F1 cars (portable). Maybe we will use it for this class in the future?

Why have a "light guy" when you can just pay 20 bucks and pick up one of several really good commercially available touring car lighting kits that gives you headlights, brake lights, reverse and turn signals? Seems like you are trying to reinvent the wheel for nothing.

Can you get commercially available lighting kits that the brake light comes on when you're on the brake? Any i've seen it's just on all the time

Fakirr- I have them on my F1 car and having him do the same for the TT02 body I'm going to use. I've been selling the F1 lights around my Florida tracks for about a year. When i get my first one's I'll post them. But it won't be anytime soon- probably a month or so.
I do have the present light kits out there but I like to have the brake lights come on when I hit the brakes- looks real.

That would be unreal Bullfrog. I like the idea of lights, but the idea of working brake lights on my race car would be something else.

I have my guy working on them and they will go on my Datsun240Z. I will be just headlights and working brake lights - no turn signals. Just adding fun to this class around here. Plus a working stop and go system possibly for this class as well as our F1 class( Most car races have pit stops).

Is there a recommended alternate screw kit. Would like to swap out for allen head screws. I can certainly construct one from screws I have or can order, but thought I'd check to see if there was one people liked. Any issue going with the finer thread of the common 3mm screws in current kits?

I just purchased a generic kit off Amain.com

I never found an actual kit that wasn't stainless, which I didn't want. I ended up ordering a bunch of the Tamiya brand steel hex screws in the appropriate sizes, and them a few off brand ones where I wanted to save some weight.

Are you planning on using the machine thread screws in the existing self-tapper threaded holes?

This is a brand new build so I figured I would started with the machine threaded screws like we on an AE or TLR car.

Is there a reason I should not?

Nope, go for it. I suggest however getting a “M3 forming tap”. Not a standard cutting tap. And pre thread the holes before assembly. It will virtually eliminate premature stripping of the holes, and make the whole assembly stronger. It’s a ton of extra effort, but it’s worth it.

Amazon M3 forming tap link

Nope, just wanted to make sure you weren't going to run the machine screws into holes already tapped with the kit included screws. New build, party on! :) I did the exactly the same thing myself.

rather then just machine screws. Find the proper "plastic" or tapping thread screws makes a big difference in helping keep the car together. Unless you plan on tapping every hole - machine screws strip threads out much easier.

Yeah racing made some nice titanium hex head screws that I'm using on my car.

Does anyone know the track width of the new Tamiya TT-02 SRX as compared to the Tamiya TT-02 S or SR kits. Since the SRX uses the newer style a-arms, does this change the overall width/distance the tires sit from the center line of the chassis?

SRX carries an overall width of 183mm whereas Type-S have an overall width of 187mm both according to Tamiya Inc. Homepage.

SRX: https://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/58720/index.html
Typs-S: https://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/58600/index.html

Hope it helps c'',)