Hello all. New to on road RC cars here. Have just built a few cars that I am hoping to get out with this week and drive some. Started at page 200 and read through the last bit of this thread... and will surely do some more looking around and digging for info .
We built 2 cars, to start with they will just be used for fun and for getting out feet wet with onroad driving. One was built from a TT02 AMG kit, the other came from a TT02D Skyline R33 kit. Both were built with bearings, amd a few hop up parts were also used.
I will be back with some questions and details about the cars after having driven them some, looking forward to out TT02 journeys to come.
Initial questions... with the center prop shaft drive cups, came a single black o-ring... not sure what that is for, or what keeps the front prop shaft from moving towards the rear of the car when running... am I missing something here?
the Drift kit came with softer springs, would running those on the rear but swapping the fronts to stiffer springs be better for making laps around a course? I have to do some research and learning about shocks for these cars, especially as the CVA damper kit O bought for the chassis that came with friction shocks seem to be different shocks than the ones that came with the Drift kit... I need to go see if I kept the tag from that package.
one car got 2 degree YR rear uprights, and adjustable steering links, as well as a solid aluminum servo horn. I will probably get the Tamiya steering upgrade kit for the other car...as well as 2 sets of universals and drive cups, and 2 oil filled front diffs. A spring set or 2 might be in order as well...
cars will be running on torque tuned motors,, and for now 24t pinions...
ANY initial help or advice would he most appreciated.
cheers

Yes The oring is needed in the prop shaft. The front prop shaft doesn’t have a cross pin to keep it in place.. so it can slide back and forth. I personally use an o ring and also cut the old uerthene pink bushings , half of it to further secure things.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...thane-bushing/

O ring goes in one of the prop shaft cup to keep it from moving back and forth, but allowing some movement when the chassis flexes.
If you plan on racing I would check with your local track to see what mods are allowed.
Here in Mt. Joy, PA we have an indoor asphalt track where the TT02 and TT01e are allowed to run. It's basically a box stock build. Bearings, universal joints & cups, and spec tire (USGT). Front aluminum knuckles are allowed to make it more reliable. And that's it, everything else has to be stock build. It's a FUN class because all the cars are equal.
We put sticky grease like Lucas Red & Tacky in the front diff (rear diff is empty) and some in the friction shocks to keep it from getting bouncy.
My TT02 (left) my son's TT01e (right)

I'm seeing the TT-02R noted as discontinued on some of the hobby shop websites ???
Is it really discontinued or just a back order item??

It's not unusual for these special versions to be produced in limited quantities only, so yes, it could be truly gone.

Appears to be the case

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...chassis-kit-2/

Hi guys.

I am about to put together my TT-02 Type S chassis and have a question concerning the diff's and Tamiya Diff Putty: I will add a small ball of putty in the rear and three balls of putty in the front. But do I need to add lubricant to the diff gears too or does the Diff putty also acts as a lubricant within the diff's?

Thanks.

IIRC, the putty is meant to be used for locking the diff, so only for the front. Personally I'd use a liquid filled diff (don't have the part number on hand, though) for the rear.

Thanks, DW c'',)

Plus I will tell you from experience if you use putty and want to change it later it is a HUGE mess. Also ruined a good pair of double cardans when I tried putty in my TT02. Snapped both sides.
Whereas using diff oil I just stick it on a diff draining tray for 1-2 hours and then spray with cleaner.

Thanks Mike, for the heads up. I am aware of oil diff for the TT-02, but putty is my only option at present. But now, I know what to expect using putty :-)

I run diff locker with double cardan and have never snapped or broken them.. can’t see how putty would do that as it’s has a lot more give.

Something else causes them to snap.. perhaps wrong size? They were too long?

TT02 on the juice

what double cardan did you run? wondering if your running the 39mm ones like i am

correct, I’m running 39mm.

If you switched to new spool from XV02, you need to run 37mm