If cost is your concern, any upgraded TT series car isn't a great choice. A TT02r is $136, and doesn't have threaded shocks, swaybars, droop screws, sealed diff, or spool. ... and is $20 more expensive than a Sakura Advance S, or Sakura XI Sport ver.Nu. Or XQ1s. Or Blaze R2. The TT series cars are ~solid~ $30 cars. When you buy them with a body, wheels, tires, esc, and such, you're getting a great deal for a hobby grade car. If you're replacing the body, wheels and tires and getting a race legal motor and esc.... well that deal doesn't sound so good anymore.

But... at the R price... unless you ~need~ a tamiya tub, or you need sealed drivetrain.... there's not a lot of good argument for it.

So, what are you really wanting? Why is compatibility with the TT01 a question?

I have time, as there is nothing going on yil at least march. was looking at tamiya because of cost of parts. we have no local hobby shop, so everything will have to be online. I have looked a bit at the sakura so may explore that a liitle more thoroughly. thanks for all the input

I don't think much is interchangeable, diffs might be since the DF02 (TT01 offroad cousin) diffs fit the TT02B. The TT02 Type S is the best of them as it has TRF418 suspension on it. The Type s might not be legal for some classes, its banned from most TTo2 classes as far as I know, however its the most capable and would do ok in the slower touring car classes.

The TT02SR has been announced and is the Type S with some extra hopups and would be the pick but who knows when it will actually be released.

The R is just the base one with some hopups. The RR is better and has oil filled diffs which are useful.

You could also look at stuff like the Express XQ1S which is by all accounts very capable and a good price point. If these had been out when I bought my TA07 Pro I would have gone with the Express and saved some money

I had my son run the S for a season. We couldn't finish a race without breaking the front end at least once per outing. C-hubs are out of stock across the world in most cases (btw this is TRF415 suspension, not 418). It has the worst of both worlds, older racecar suspension fragility with so much slop it's pointless anyway, and el-cheapo tamiya all-the-rest. Pure disaster. A stock TT02 + bearings is a much better choice than a S because the front suspension at least holds itself together... but in all fairness ANY budget racecar (sakura, teamC, heck even the hobbyking clone) is a better choice than a TT02 if you're going to hit the track at all. the next season, I handed him my old Xray T3 2012 over... I think across the whole season he broke one c-hub, (remember the car was already 6 or 7 years old by then)... TT02 is fantastic to have fun on the parking lot with awesome bodies. The moment you hit the track you realize there are MUCH better options that are just marginally more expensive.

[QUOTE=Woof6;15588750]Hello All, 20+ year racer, but been out about 10 years now and looking to get back on a very slim budget. I don't really know anything about Tamiya, but founf this and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. Based on the tt01-e, which so I've read so far not the best of choice for VTA. But this has the upgrades and CF chassis so thought it might be a viable choice. Can't beat the price. Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

I think this car is more for drifting then racing.
I would see what the other people are using at the track. You might get lucky and they might have a class requiring a chassis that doesn't cost much, to get people into racing. Track I race at has a class for stock tt-02. I can race for about $350 and know I'm not competing against people with about $3000 into their car.
I would look for a used X-ray, Associated or some other chassis made for racing, if your looking to save money and be competitive on a track with open chassis racing.

TCS TT02
 

anyone racing in TCS this year with the TT02? do you mind sharing some setup?

subscribed

Anyone know when Tamiya will start selling that Type-sr TT-02 and what they want for it?

Should be out by late March / Early April

Sorry im just not reading through al 154 pages but how is it to drive with the alu drift conversion kit? The one that adds alot of steering angle but makes it RWD. I meen without a gyro (which i consider cheating :) )

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...83c3f6c9be.jpg

Looking to probably get a Type-S if the SR doesn't come out soon for VTA racing. Found a few upgrades and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them.

3Racing
TT02-03 steering system
TT02-08 graphite main shaft. Are ends steel or aluminum?
TT02-09 gear diff

Yeah Racing
TATT019BU rear adjustable suspension mount. Will this work with the Type-S arms?
TT02-015 universal joints
TT02-013BU motor mount
TT02-042BU steering set
TT02-014BU main drive shaft
TT02-016BU main shaft joints

Square
SQ-STD-442SPR 42mm axle

Wanted to know if anyone used any of these and their experience with them. Thanks

The 3racing gear diff is the best for this chassis. Just check the left right play after the first runs and shim if necessary. Also don’t use the bevel gear that comes with the diff!
The Yeah racing motor mount works fine.
Everything else would I buy from Tamiya, because the quality of Yeah- and 3Racing aluminium parts is questionable...

For the suspension go for Tamiya graphite arms and hubs. They will stiffen up the suspension and make the car a lot better. If possible not the 416 arms, because they will make the car even narrower. If your wallet allows it go for dcj in front.

By bevel gears on the 3 racing diff, do you mean the internal diff gears or the one on the end of the prop shaft? Do the tamiya gears fit inside the diff if it is these you are talking about? Been considering getting one of these diffs for my Type S.

I dont know about you all but I have an issue with the motor mounts by Yeah.......... seams when trying to tighten the top bolt it tightens the spear.... I have had to drill out the mount to get it to work right. is any one else having this issue ?