Cookie

Not sure about the spacers, I found it was tight when new but quickly wore in and then became loose, maybe shim it after a few days of running when things have bedded in well.

Yes I did quite a bit of dremelling so that the batteries would sit down flush with the bottom of the chassis. No going back with the chassis!!
I would recommend starting with the stock setup...as you said.....

I like running it best with the one-way pulley locked up and a front one-way diff installed. I use the HPI Pro2 one with the one-way bearings reversed in their housing. I think an X-ray one should fit, but I don't want to use any X-ray parts on my car!

seaball

iTrader: (9)

hey i hear ya. i was looking at both the xray and the c4. really the ray is a bit more polished. after noticing that the corallies don't hold their value as well, i went with the c4. a used xray is still over 200. but you're right. how lame is it to rip off that much. as far as the one way goes, someone offered me one about two months ago when i was looking for the c4. corally doesn't make one? i guess i'll just have to find that guy and send him a mail. i'll have to keep my eyes peeled for an hpi one. the pro 3 one right?. yeah, right.

by the way, how nice is it that the compression on the wheels/axles has no effect on the bearings. most of the other cars i had, could be shimmed so far, and then the slop was taken out by how much i tightened the wheel. not a bad way to go, but not a quick tire/wheel change. props to corally. i've got almost enough parts to make a second car. i think it may in time be a project car that steals from the ova t4. i hate saddle packs, but they are logical. ok, later.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Seaball,

Corally does make a front oneway diff for the car, call CorallyUSA and talk to Rob.

Trips

seaball

iTrader: (9)

cool trips. i just might.

AE_Racer

seaball, check your email man, I tried to send you a pm, but your box is full....let me know if you still want it

seaball

iTrader: (9)

umm. i do, but i dunno what price you want to do. i'll post on your f/s thread from here on out. oh and i made room for some pm's. later.

Cookie

Yes, Corally do make a one-way diff but it is four separate pieces, being the two outdrives, pulley and the central axle. It's a nice idea but it tends to bend in the middle/collapse when load is applied, i.e., pulling the trigger the belt is pulled taught under enourmous force and the whole thing bends and binds up really badly, it's like having drag brakes on the front end everytime you accelerate.
Shimming the diff so there is no sideways slop helps but it still occurs.

To test this theory find a Corally with one installed and force the front belt tight with your fingers and then try to spin either front wheel forwards!

I used the HPI one before Corally released this diff and then got one and tried it but had to go back to the HPI one because of this problem.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

thanks for the reply. i was thinking of buying ae racer's c41 since it has the oneway in it. now i dunno. should i just find the rs4 one way?

seaball

iTrader: (9)

hey cookie
you aren't running the rear shocks on the front are you. they're freaky long. i like the rear tower up there though. i'm a big fan of standup shocks. again, i may copy.

Cookie

Yes they are the rear shocks, but I think it is better to have the slightly increased up travel of the shorter ones.....

I really like the rear tower up front because it provides far more steering as you are able to stand the shocks up more. But be careful, it provides a LOT of steering!!

Use the 3rd hole up for mounting it and dremel the lowest part of the shock tower until it clears the aluminium of the gearbox half.
This way you will still be able to just fit the body low enough. I usually have it resting on the tower, just.
Oh, and I think you have to dremel a bit so that it clears the front diff.

tabmow69

Hey Cookie!
Whats up bud? Its the Wombat.
Sorry to crash your forum Corally kids... Just poppin in to say hi!
See ya in Canberra,Nov.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

yeah, i want to use all of the same size shocks and it's nice that the rear ones can actually go all the way up without tearing the gasket/diaphram. how much up travel do you get past bottoming out flat? i think about .125 is optimum if the cvd's don't bind. well, i'll stop back. later.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

oh yeah. do you ever let the shocks be the droop limiters? i would think not to, so that the clickers don't switch their postition. what's your take? later.

Pedro 51

Finally upgrading my C4AG to C4.1. I am not sure about the anti squat settings. I run (I hesitate to call my pace, racing) at a tight asphalt track, with a lot of walls.

Do I want anti squat, front/rear/both??

Bearing in mind the stupid question is the one you don't ask---which holes do I use for any settings, upper or lower?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

Peter

seaball

iTrader: (9)

well, i haven't run the c41 yet, but i don't like too much antisquat on my schumacher. in fact i have none front and rear. on a track where you are having lots of switchbacks and on/off throttle alot i find the rear antisquat to feel too touchy. just my oppinion though and the corally may like some. i dunno. what do you think corally veterans?