Tamiya XV-01
#1621
Finally got to get mine out yesterday, handles a bit strange with the worn front diff cups every now and then but still good fun.
The knock off tamiya rally block tyres on RC Mart are quite bad on ashphalt.
Very little grip, requires very gentle driving and needs to be kept loaded or instant spin.
The knock off tamiya rally block tyres on RC Mart are quite bad on ashphalt.
Very little grip, requires very gentle driving and needs to be kept loaded or instant spin.
#1622
Tech Addict
Agreed. The sways are a bandage, I've never needed them before. But they help just a little.
I think the reason why this 3 wheeling is happening more than I remember is because I switched to the stock suspension. The TC setup actually spaces out the wheels to a wider stance, around 8mm+ wider.
Also my suspension is much higher now, I am using the cc-01 dampers at basically full extension. Coupled with that, I put spacers under all the suspension blocks to allow for extra droop.
Tires like I mentioned are a big factor, and running a ride height that's around 20mm+.
I traction roll very often on high speed turns. I think I will switch back over to TC and deal with the reduced ride height.
The Lancia off is actually great for rolling back over.
I think the reason why this 3 wheeling is happening more than I remember is because I switched to the stock suspension. The TC setup actually spaces out the wheels to a wider stance, around 8mm+ wider.
Also my suspension is much higher now, I am using the cc-01 dampers at basically full extension. Coupled with that, I put spacers under all the suspension blocks to allow for extra droop.
Tires like I mentioned are a big factor, and running a ride height that's around 20mm+.
I traction roll very often on high speed turns. I think I will switch back over to TC and deal with the reduced ride height.
The Lancia off is actually great for rolling back over.
Check sag, droop and up travel that they're even side to side.
Roll centre too soft?
Chassis flex and tweak?
Damper setup?
Few things could cause it I suppose, but I think adding a roll bar is a bandaid.
Saying that though, sometimes it's not completely avoidable and is part of a compromise.
Roll centre too soft?
Chassis flex and tweak?
Damper setup?
Few things could cause it I suppose, but I think adding a roll bar is a bandaid.
Saying that though, sometimes it's not completely avoidable and is part of a compromise.
Last edited by 4roller; 10-29-2017 at 08:09 PM.
#1623
I'm running about 18mm ride height and don't really have the issue.
I don't think the wider wheels would cause the issue.
I have the WR-02 alloy dampers on mine with the long rod ends and taller towers.
I have (I think) 1mm spacers under the front and 2mm spacers under the rear pivot blocks.
Med sway bar in front and soft in the rear.
I also have 2mm on the inside camber link front and rear.
Try lowering it, if you have no droop or not enough, you'll run out of suspension travel very quickly.
Mine rarely traction rolls.
I don't think the wider wheels would cause the issue.
I have the WR-02 alloy dampers on mine with the long rod ends and taller towers.
I have (I think) 1mm spacers under the front and 2mm spacers under the rear pivot blocks.
Med sway bar in front and soft in the rear.
I also have 2mm on the inside camber link front and rear.
Try lowering it, if you have no droop or not enough, you'll run out of suspension travel very quickly.
Mine rarely traction rolls.
#1624
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Swaybars aren't a "bandage". They are a tuning option. It's a rally car. You might be able to reduce chassis lean to an acceptable level without swaybars if you drop the ride height down to racetrack levels (which also works on real cars, btw), but it's not practical to lower the ride height that much if you plan to drive it the way Tamiya intended.
#1625
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
I rewired the electronics on my rear-motor XV-01 today. The ESC I was using before didn't live up to my expectations, and it was also just large enough that I had to use a smaller (and more expensive) 4-channel receiver when I only needed 2 channels.
The new ESC works better, and is also a little smaller so I can use the same 2-channel receiver I have in most of my other vehicles. It also supports sensored motors in case I ever decide to try one in this vehicle, though I honestly don't see much point to it.
The new ESC works better, and is also a little smaller so I can use the same 2-channel receiver I have in most of my other vehicles. It also supports sensored motors in case I ever decide to try one in this vehicle, though I honestly don't see much point to it.
#1626
Swaybars aren't a "bandage". They are a tuning option. It's a rally car. You might be able to reduce chassis lean to an acceptable level without swaybars if you drop the ride height down to racetrack levels (which also works on real cars, btw), but it's not practical to lower the ride height that much if you plan to drive it the way Tamiya intended.
I do think that wheel lift should be reduced as much as possible before adding one in an attempt to fix it.
But sometimes lifting a wheel is not avoidable.
18mm ride height is not lowering it either, from memory it's a good couple mm higher than the standard ride height.
But if you have no droop because the ride height is so high, you will lift a wheel every single time.
It's all about balance, you can't have one thing without taking it from another.
I'm running a Viper VTX10BE I think, fits reasonably easy with 16ga wires but the capacitors make it a little awkward.
By the time everything is fitted, it's a tight squeeze, and the wires from the esc sometimes rubbed on the fan in the cover, so I had to remove it.
#1627
Tech Addict
I am running taller tires like the size of those that came on the xv-01T. 75mm O.D. they are also 30mm wide too. Wide tires don't really matter, but the taller side walls collapse much quicker. They are super soft and the sidewall deforms quite a bit since the foams are very soft too.
While I was running the car closer to full height, I still had a good amount of left over droop. But I think the tire compressing is softer than the springs I have on. Anyway, a ton of body roll and traction rolling is hard to tune out. I even lowered the car to half the height and it still rolled often.
Instead of racking my head over it I went with the tired and true. I spend part of this afternoon converting the car back to TC suspension. My track width is almost 8mm wider now. Not to mention the TC suspension actually makes for some plusher give even with the same hardness of springs. I think it had to do with how the arms are actually longer and the pivot points allow for more leverage.
I took a rip with it after the conversion and instantly felt the car handle much differently. Much flatter. The back wheels does still lift, but it's previous effect of traction rolling has been removed.
I will try with some massive ride height to see if the TC suspension is really that much different. My guess is that the long arm geometry and camber gain is vastly different which helps the car not roll as easily.
While I was running the car closer to full height, I still had a good amount of left over droop. But I think the tire compressing is softer than the springs I have on. Anyway, a ton of body roll and traction rolling is hard to tune out. I even lowered the car to half the height and it still rolled often.
Instead of racking my head over it I went with the tired and true. I spend part of this afternoon converting the car back to TC suspension. My track width is almost 8mm wider now. Not to mention the TC suspension actually makes for some plusher give even with the same hardness of springs. I think it had to do with how the arms are actually longer and the pivot points allow for more leverage.
I took a rip with it after the conversion and instantly felt the car handle much differently. Much flatter. The back wheels does still lift, but it's previous effect of traction rolling has been removed.
I will try with some massive ride height to see if the TC suspension is really that much different. My guess is that the long arm geometry and camber gain is vastly different which helps the car not roll as easily.
#1628
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Regarding the approach of reducing body roll by raising the roll-center: That may work, but the tradeoff is the wheels won't "tuck-in" under the body as much when the suspension compresses. That can cause the tires to grab against the edges of the wheelwell cutouts unless you run narrower-offset wheels, and the tradeoff for *that* is an increased likelihood of traction-rolling due to a narrower track-width.
Sometimes you just gotta use a swaybar.
Sometimes you just gotta use a swaybar.
#1629
Tech Adept
Hello guys,
As this is one of the thread that I can find with lots of good infos on the XV, I just want to ask, for those who are using the long damper kit, what is the best hop ups for the damper that is available?
As this is one of the thread that I can find with lots of good infos on the XV, I just want to ask, for those who are using the long damper kit, what is the best hop ups for the damper that is available?
#1631
Tech Addict
They haven't come in yet but I think the total length will be around 65-68mm.
You could also get the cc-01 alloy dampers and the wr-02 dampers?? Those would be the tamiya option.
#1633
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
The 60mm yeah racing dampers are just a little shy of the right length. I also ordered stadium Blitzer piston rods to make it work (on my TC) with short ends.
They haven't come in yet but I think the total length will be around 65-68mm.
You could also get the cc-01 alloy dampers and the wr-02 dampers?? Those would be the tamiya option.
They haven't come in yet but I think the total length will be around 65-68mm.
You could also get the cc-01 alloy dampers and the wr-02 dampers?? Those would be the tamiya option.