Applesauce

iTrader: (15)

The xti should be here Tuesday. I am looking for a setup for a small track(20x40ish) will be running 17.5 blinky. Can someone point me in the right direction

Thanks

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

5 Degree reactive Caser blocks
1 caster shim forward 2 rear
.5 springs
-.5 degrees Camber
0 toe out

Red Center Spring with 35wt oil
2mm of pod lift over ride height

White Side Springs
10000 in the tubes


Gear to about 80-85mm rollout
But on a track that small look at the layout and depending on how tight the corners are you may want to go lower.

Depending on how smooth or rough the carpet is Smooth = 3-3.5mm ride height rough 3.5 to 4mm

Radi0Flyer

Finally got the car out on the track for a shakedown. I LOVE this thing! It handles like it's glued to the track. At first I thought it was too twitchy but that was just me going too slow. After some practice time and increasing the timing on the motor, I was able to drive the car faster and the twitchiness disappeared. The car definitely likes to be driven fast. I have a crazy fast servo in it so that doesn't help at slow speeds also.

I set the side springs just touching and camber at 0.5 degrees. My tires (black fronts and yellow rears) were holding up nicely with minor coning on the fronts. I will likely chunk them badly before they wear out.

The only gripe I have with the car is the left clamping wheel hub. After smacking the wall a few times the hub slid out. I didn't notice it until it slid out far enough to allow the axle to move over to the point the spur and pinion were no longer in contact. I tried several times to tighten it but it never clamped properly. Finally it got to the point where one tap into the wall would allow it to move enough to lose drive. The track has a shop (it's where I bought the car) but they did not have a replacement hub for 1/12th. I ended up buying an AE 12R5 hub and this one is still on the car. Perhaps I was getting better at not hitting things but I didn't have a problem after that. The AE part has a smaller screw but the shoulder for it is much bigger and less likely to bend or break.

All in all I am very happy with the car.



Sean

evirobs

iTrader: (1)

anyone tried spektrum servo for Xti?
I am considering the A7020 & 5040.
Any feedback on these 2 servos?

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

5040 i used and is way too slow ...since then i switch to the sanwa srg-hr and made an extreme difference.

Radi0Flyer

I have not tried either but from looking at the specs they both seem a bit slow for a 1/12th pan car. Trust me you will not be doing yourself any favors if you run a slow servo. If you prefer Spektrum the SPMSH6080G is the only one I see that has the speed, but it is standard size. Fit could be an issue.

I am always looking for cheap alternatives and I believe I have found one for 1/12th. I currently have a Turnigy TGY-212DMH in my Xti and I am very happy with it. I did test it on a servo speed tester and can verify the specs are correct. It is very small but has a coreless motor and has plenty of power to steer a 1/12th. It centers instantly with no bounce and is very fast.







Sean

evirobs

iTrader: (1)

Hi Sean,
Thanks for the feedback, will definitely try it out!

Radi0Flyer

Just FYI, I used the servo mount that came with the Xti but had to drill a new hole in it to use this servo. The servo is also held on with double-sided tape. Doesn't move at all. If you go this route, make sure you take into account the thickness of your double-sided tape when you measure where to drill the hole in the servo mount.


Sean

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I have no first hand experience with that servo, but based on specs I would but I'm skeptical of its torque as it is less than half of what is normally used. A Sanwa SG-HR is about 3.8 kg/cm, as compared to the 1.4 of the Turnigy.

Radi0Flyer

The price is also less than half of a Sanwa SG-HR. (actually about a quarter)

But the real question is how much torque do you need to turn the tires on a 1/12th? The Turnigy servo I am running is about 20 oz-in. while that Sanwa is approx. 52oz-in. IMO you don't need much torque for 1/12th. We all used to run Futaba S132H servos in 1/12th BITD and those only had 25oz-in. In fact I still have one in my AE 12L3 and it is still going strong. I don't want to start a servo debate, I know the Turnigy is an inexpensive made in China servo. I'm just sharing my experience. I tried it and felt was a good value. Only time will tell if it holds up.



Sean

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

The TGY-212DMH is working well for me so far. It's one of the few micro servos with a "normal" size output shaft. The Kimbrough Futaba servo saver fits nicely.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

You'd actually be surprised how much torque you need. The real issue isn't turning the wheels, it's keeping them turned in high load situations. In my experience with 17.5, anything with less than 35 oz/in just won't cut it when the bite comes up. In modified, you'd need to be between 50 and 60 oz/in.

I'm currently running a spektrum 4010 in my Xti. It's proven to be fast enough at .11 transit, and has enough torque to easily remain cranked in 17.5 If I were running 13.5 or Mod, I'd servo up.

I run a JR3650 in my WGT car. According to what I'm reading here most believe that these servos are too slow for pancars. Perhaps if I were using a radio with higher latency it might be a problem. Neither of my cars seem to give up anything in reaction time to the guys I've raced with, except maybe the brave few who run KO951's, but those drivers are usually dialling their steering speed down in the radio,

Radi0Flyer

That's an interesting perspective. But here's a question. If, for the sake of argument, we are both running the same servo saver, and either servo has enough power to operate the servo saver, how does the servo's torque even come into play? Whether you have 20 oz-in. or 60 oz-in. the servo saver will ultimately dictate how much torque is used to turn the wheels. If you need 50 oz-in. to turn the wheels under load but the servo saver starts to "save" at 30 oz-in. (an arbitrary value for the example), it's a moot point no? The saver will "center" once the load is reduced and again that's independent of the actual output of the servo. Just trying to wrap my head around it.

If my little servo doesn't have the power to handle the loads (I am running a 13.5) it will likely show up as excessive heating. I will monitor it to see if that is the case. My track isn't very big and I am not that fast (anymore LOL) so I doubt I can put a decent load on it.



Sean

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

I was running a servo in my Gen X10LE that was strong enough when powered by a 7.4v lipo rx pack, but after going to a HW 1s esc, it would "give-up" in fast corners, and the front-end would wash out. I then went to a JR3650, and that problem disappeared. I ran my Xti in 10.5 blinky with the 4010, and I could feel the same sensation. When dropping to a 17.5, the decrease in corner entry speed took enough load away that the issue vanished. For what it's worth, I've been running the medium Kimbrough in my 12th scale cars for years, as the smaller servo saver would give me that exact same "washing out" sensation regardless of which servo I used.

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

can you do an alter ego conversion to a gen xl?