YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#3196
Tech Regular
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11421171-post971.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10318721-post3426.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10233467-post3382.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12415267-post2545.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11838375-post1774.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11300807-post545.html
Here's a photo from a Facebook post from a BD7 driver
Last edited by cyclonetog; 12-07-2013 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Add photo
#3197
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
But when assembled correctly, the Yokomo parts are quite durable, as is the case with my car
Pictures of busted stuff doesn't tell much
But that one with the shrink wrap does show an assembly error imo...
The Yok DCJS may require more attention to detail then others, and perhaps that is what the fuss is all about ?
If you simply take them out of the package, and bolt them on, you will have broken bits
New parts need to be dis-assembled, cleaned, locktite on screws, and lubed BEFORE use
#3198
Tech Regular
Of course anything can be broken, my dad earns his living breaking stuff and producing data on it.
Some things break more often than others. The evidence is that the Yok DCJ is one of those things.
Some things break more often than others. The evidence is that the Yok DCJ is one of those things.
#3200
Tech Regular
#3201
Tech Apprentice
Been looking for a nice setup for ashpalt, heres what ive been using for my hometown tracks;
Ride height: front 5mm back 5.5mm
Droop: front 6.5 back 4.5
Toe: front toe out 1.5 deg, back toe in 3 deg.
Camber: need check again, any recommendations?
Absorber settings:
Spring: ride red (same rate as hpi silver) for back and front
Shock oil: 500wt Associated
Differential oil: 1000wt
Running 10.5T boosted
Fdr: 6.6
As for the setup above, i ran the car on our new tracks in malaysia, so the road conditions are smooth and high grip, however i find the car to have a little bit of understeer compared to my previous bd 5 wxi
Righ now my setup still uses the connecting rod between the upper deck and the steering bridge, is it better if i take out the connecting rod to promote flex?
Plus i find the ned gear diff is a bit stiffer compared to bd5 gear diff, should i reduce the oil wt to promote more steering?
One last question, my car weigh complete with electronics and bodyshell (plus center ballast weight from bd5 wxi) is around 1450gram, is this too heavy for 10.5T boosted class? Whats the ideal weight?
Ride height: front 5mm back 5.5mm
Droop: front 6.5 back 4.5
Toe: front toe out 1.5 deg, back toe in 3 deg.
Camber: need check again, any recommendations?
Absorber settings:
Spring: ride red (same rate as hpi silver) for back and front
Shock oil: 500wt Associated
Differential oil: 1000wt
Running 10.5T boosted
Fdr: 6.6
As for the setup above, i ran the car on our new tracks in malaysia, so the road conditions are smooth and high grip, however i find the car to have a little bit of understeer compared to my previous bd 5 wxi
Righ now my setup still uses the connecting rod between the upper deck and the steering bridge, is it better if i take out the connecting rod to promote flex?
Plus i find the ned gear diff is a bit stiffer compared to bd5 gear diff, should i reduce the oil wt to promote more steering?
One last question, my car weigh complete with electronics and bodyshell (plus center ballast weight from bd5 wxi) is around 1450gram, is this too heavy for 10.5T boosted class? Whats the ideal weight?
#3202
Tech Regular
Setup looks pretty ball park. Definitely take out the steering bridge, hardly anybody uses it anywhere.
I wouldn't go lower on diff oil, most setups seem to be 2-3k and I've even seen 5k before.
It would be good to know cambers, usually 1.5F, 1.5 or 2.0R. If you check it and you do have more on the rear then removing a bit from the rear may help steering, or even adding more to the front.
1450g seems too heavy, weight limit in Europe is 1350g and ROAR is 1380g and the car seems to work well at that weight.
You don't mention tyres or body shell, both are very important factors.
I wouldn't go lower on diff oil, most setups seem to be 2-3k and I've even seen 5k before.
It would be good to know cambers, usually 1.5F, 1.5 or 2.0R. If you check it and you do have more on the rear then removing a bit from the rear may help steering, or even adding more to the front.
1450g seems too heavy, weight limit in Europe is 1350g and ROAR is 1380g and the car seems to work well at that weight.
You don't mention tyres or body shell, both are very important factors.
#3203
Tech Apprentice
Setup looks pretty ball park. Definitely take out the steering bridge, hardly anybody uses it anywhere.
I wouldn't go lower on diff oil, most setups seem to be 2-3k and I've even seen 5k before.
It would be good to know cambers, usually 1.5F, 1.5 or 2.0R. If you check it and you do have more on the rear then removing a bit from the rear may help steering, or even adding more to the front.
1450g seems too heavy, weight limit in Europe is 1350g and ROAR is 1380g and the car seems to work well at that weight.
You don't mention tyres or body shell, both are very important factors.
I wouldn't go lower on diff oil, most setups seem to be 2-3k and I've even seen 5k before.
It would be good to know cambers, usually 1.5F, 1.5 or 2.0R. If you check it and you do have more on the rear then removing a bit from the rear may help steering, or even adding more to the front.
1450g seems too heavy, weight limit in Europe is 1350g and ROAR is 1380g and the car seems to work well at that weight.
You don't mention tyres or body shell, both are very important factors.
Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.
I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
#3204
Thanks, my camber shows -2deg front -3 deg back. Will adjust it to 1.5 front 2 at the back.
Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.
I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.
I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
#3207
Agree with KsChu . I am now using the Mr Roche front ESC's. I picked them up on the weekend.
#3208
Thanks, my camber shows -2deg front -3 deg back. Will adjust it to 1.5 front 2 at the back.
Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.
I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
Im using RIDE wrx bodyshell and RIDE 36 tires, not sure its available overseas though, RIDE products are quite popular here.
I guess the added weight is due to my orca 7000mah 80c batt, that alone already weighs 330gram might switch to SMC battery later.
#3209
Tech Regular
The kit UJ has a 2.1mm pin and the Spec-R dcj has a 2.0mm one, which creates a bit of slop in the outdrive.
#3210
Tech Initiate
Anything can be broken
But when assembled correctly, the Yokomo parts are quite durable, as is the case with my car
Pictures of busted stuff doesn't tell much
But that one with the shrink wrap does show an assembly error imo...
The Yok DCJS may require more attention to detail then others, and perhaps that is what the fuss is all about ?
If you simply take them out of the package, and bolt them on, you will have broken bits
New parts need to be dis-assembled, cleaned, locktite on screws, and lubed BEFORE use
But when assembled correctly, the Yokomo parts are quite durable, as is the case with my car
Pictures of busted stuff doesn't tell much
But that one with the shrink wrap does show an assembly error imo...
The Yok DCJS may require more attention to detail then others, and perhaps that is what the fuss is all about ?
If you simply take them out of the package, and bolt them on, you will have broken bits
New parts need to be dis-assembled, cleaned, locktite on screws, and lubed BEFORE use