Hugh Jazz

iTrader: (4)

I also use the Kyosho Red P5 Oring in my diffs as well as the green slime. Haven't had any leak in a while now.

mikeygar

iTrader: (14)

Awesome fellow that Robert Itoh is. Always taking care of his team and other racer's needs. I sure hope that next year they will do better! The car is just so good! I even complimented to Umino that the BD7 fixed all the shortcomings of the BD5!

jeff_78

Ive broke other diffs too, the bd7's is good. and no adjustments or extra shims required.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Good news for those here trying to use aftermarket DCJs designed for other cars, specifically the 417 series...

I just found this out but it may or may not be known by other people, however it has never been expressly mentioned on RC Tech...

Yesterday I broke my Yokomo DCJs from a full speed collision after a car in qualifying spun out in front of me. I was stressed out because I had no spares other than some Spec R V.2 DCJs from my old Tamiya 417X. It was mentioned by 5tyles that you need to use Tamiya steering hubs and ultimately mess with the ackerman.

I was in the middle of of doing exactly this when I found out that you can use the Spec R DCJ's for the 417 with the stock Yokomo parts so long as you use Tamiya wheel hexes. I'm not entirely sure why but I'm assuming the tapered shape on the back end of the Yokomo hex is deforming the outer bearing race when you tighten down the wheel nut on the Tamiya style DCJ's causing the binding. The Tamiya hex is flat and has a lip that creates a gap between the hex and outside axle bearing. I ran the car like this perfectly for the rest of the day.

So in short:

-Spec R V.2 DCJ's for Tamiya 417 work as long as you change the hexes to Tamiya or Tamiya style/shaped.

-Tamiya OEM DCJ's still do not work even with the hex mod for some reason. They spin fine until you get to half steering lock then they bind.

Bill K

iTrader: (1)

Its good to hear you've found various setups that you know work with your yokomo. I find that its genetics that all sweep tires run crap on any car I use. Right now im running sorex on speed miner rims and the car sticks like a beast

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

I have a pretty good setup for sweeps. This setup also translates well to asphalt for a easy starting base.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...0210/setup.pdf

Fabiano TKL

No... just for know, because de TRFs have a very problems here ( breaking easy ) with gear diff and the Xray's works great..

Fabiano TKL

That's great !!!

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

I guess I haven't been around it long enough to have broken a gear diff or heard of one locally. I know the 417x is a great car anyway.

Btw it's just finding a balance in the tires. Certain tires make a car loose or tight. Your job in the day of practice is to usually find a way to get your car good in a day of practice.

Most races here in America have pre-mounts. I know our series locally states any pre-mounts so I use the Sorex pre-mounts or Jaco Blues.

alejandrospeed

Hello people, anybody knows what kind of things or makes can I do to reduce the play in the direction of Bd7?

scoyle

I'm sorry to bring this up again... Looking at the carpet setup for the BD7 it has droop at 10 on the front and 8.5 rear. As I understand it this is to the outer hinge pin. Is this also on 10mm blocks?

My normal settings on my previous car, a TC6.1 was 6.5/6 measured on 10mm blocks under the arm front edges. Can I just use the same method? And what would the 10/8.5 from the Yokomo carpet setup sheet equate to?

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

Why adjust the amount of play in the car? Certain cars are designed to have play in them.

A guy on this forum has a good video Artwork is his name. Check Youtube for the how to's.
I am currently at 5 over ride height up front and 3.5 in the rear.

So in other words I can set my car on 10mm blocks and my front tires are just touching.

cyclonetog

Hi Stephen,

The 10mm and 8.5mm settings are measured to the centre of the pin with the car sitting on its chassis on the setup board (i.e. NOT on blocks).
The best tool to use to measure the droop in this way is a steel rule, it's very simple and easy to do.

You can use the 10mm blocks if you like but then you have to add 10mm to the settings and personally I really don't see the point.


If you want to measure it old school with a droop gauge, the Loic Jasmin carpet setup uses 6mm front and 4mm rear measured at the under side of the wishbone under the hinge pin.

scoyle

Thanks for that - makes complete sense... Off to find a steel rule now :-)

cyclonetog

Just added you on FB by the way