AME T SHOX
#301
So I finally had a decent day of testing with the T-shox short. First time out with the shocks was definately a step backwards compared to my standard Xray shocks. I built them like Andreas showed in his tutorial, without any rebound springs 350cst oil and 3 x 1.2mm drilled pistons. The car felt fast the first three laps, after that it just got inconsistent, and you could see the car vibrating in the slower corners, also griproll was an issue. I tried HPI, Yokomo and AME springs and to my surprise, I liked the AME springs the best. My conclusion was that the o-rings inside of the shocks must have been to tight, 350cst oil and 3 x 1.2mm pistons should make the shocks feel light, but they weren't.
So I did a rebuilt of the shocks, I removed the big o-ring in the shockcap. Building the shocks without it was ten times easier.
Without the shockcap the damper felt smooth, so I left the lower part of the shock the way it was, but with the shockcap the damper felt completely different. So I removed the conical shim from the shockcap, which made the shock feel much smoother. I also wanted to try something new, so I put the short rebound spring the shock, below the piston, so it had negative rebound.
Today I had some time to test the "improved" T-shox. I began with HPI silver all round. The car didn't vibrate in slower corners, and never felt like griprolling. Second run I changed the HPI spring for AME Yellows, and again the car felt better with them.
So now it was time te set a decent 5 min run. I began with the Xray shocks with AME Yellow springs, the run was O.K. not particularly fast. For the second 5 min run I changed back to the T-shox with the AME yellow springs and again had a decent run and it was 1 second faster.
I'm not making any conclusions, but I can now finally run competitive with these shocks.
So I did a rebuilt of the shocks, I removed the big o-ring in the shockcap. Building the shocks without it was ten times easier.
Without the shockcap the damper felt smooth, so I left the lower part of the shock the way it was, but with the shockcap the damper felt completely different. So I removed the conical shim from the shockcap, which made the shock feel much smoother. I also wanted to try something new, so I put the short rebound spring the shock, below the piston, so it had negative rebound.
Today I had some time to test the "improved" T-shox. I began with HPI silver all round. The car didn't vibrate in slower corners, and never felt like griprolling. Second run I changed the HPI spring for AME Yellows, and again the car felt better with them.
So now it was time te set a decent 5 min run. I began with the Xray shocks with AME Yellow springs, the run was O.K. not particularly fast. For the second 5 min run I changed back to the T-shox with the AME yellow springs and again had a decent run and it was 1 second faster.
I'm not making any conclusions, but I can now finally run competitive with these shocks.
Trust me I do really listen to you guys and I also test all things which you tell me about.
I will go to TITC tomorrow and stay there for 8 days so I will again have alot of time testing so I will also test the things taken up in this thread.
On thing though with the conical shims
- Please use them
- If you then still think, as you write, that its to much friction or pressure on the O-ring then grind down the 2mm shim instead so that the pressure decreases.
- The reason for this is that if the conical shim is not used then the O-ring will be pressed into the coned part of the top cap/shockbody and the friction will increase a lot under pressure which you will have when driving the car which you wont have when holding the shock in your hand and the shock will also leak less due to the fact that the o-ring does not deform during pressure.
On a nother note, which I unfortunately also forgot to inform about is that the shock also needs to be run in, after newly rebuilt. So the first battery packs the shock will be to tight but after about 3 runs the shock will be alot smoother then the first run.
As written above, I need to include some more instructions or information as many things which are clear to me obviously are not as clear to many others.
#302
Hi Guys,
I have had 2 emails now with shock body threading.
This is NOT a quality issue or incorrect manufacturing as some think or say.
All shocks are delivered with the shock cap mounted on the shock body.
This obviously means that the top cap fits perfectly on the shock body.
You however need to make sure that when you tighten the shock cap on the shock body that you fit them correctly, then there wont be any issues.
A tip to make this easier or smoother is if you put some grease (Xenon shock grease/Associated green slim) on the shock house on the threading then it will also be easier and smoother to mount.
/Andreas
I have had 2 emails now with shock body threading.
This is NOT a quality issue or incorrect manufacturing as some think or say.
All shocks are delivered with the shock cap mounted on the shock body.
This obviously means that the top cap fits perfectly on the shock body.
You however need to make sure that when you tighten the shock cap on the shock body that you fit them correctly, then there wont be any issues.
A tip to make this easier or smoother is if you put some grease (Xenon shock grease/Associated green slim) on the shock house on the threading then it will also be easier and smoother to mount.
/Andreas
#303
I will fly to Thailand tomorrow and I don't know when and where I will get WiFi so not sure when I will be able to reply.
I will also if the WiFi works, will update what I test and how it works and what works and what doesn't seem to work.
Dont expect any super times from me, haven't been racing on asphalt for 6 years
/Andreas
I will also if the WiFi works, will update what I test and how it works and what works and what doesn't seem to work.
Dont expect any super times from me, haven't been racing on asphalt for 6 years
/Andreas
#304
Tech Addict
I also had pm'ed this suggestion to some guys here:
"put the shock cap on the top of the body and start to do the unscrew movement, you will feel when is the right spot to screw the cap, try it until you feel is screwing right"
Hope this helps.
"put the shock cap on the top of the body and start to do the unscrew movement, you will feel when is the right spot to screw the cap, try it until you feel is screwing right"
Hope this helps.
#305
Tech Initiate
Andreas, what car will you be using?
#306
Hi Guys,
I have had 2 emails now with shock body threading.
This is NOT a quality issue or incorrect manufacturing as some think or say.
All shocks are delivered with the shock cap mounted on the shock body.
This obviously means that the top cap fits perfectly on the shock body.
You however need to make sure that when you tighten the shock cap on the shock body that you fit them correctly, then there wont be any issues.
A tip to make this easier or smoother is if you put some grease (Xenon shock grease/Associated green slim) on the shock house on the threading then it will also be easier and smoother to mount.
/Andreas
I have had 2 emails now with shock body threading.
This is NOT a quality issue or incorrect manufacturing as some think or say.
All shocks are delivered with the shock cap mounted on the shock body.
This obviously means that the top cap fits perfectly on the shock body.
You however need to make sure that when you tighten the shock cap on the shock body that you fit them correctly, then there wont be any issues.
A tip to make this easier or smoother is if you put some grease (Xenon shock grease/Associated green slim) on the shock house on the threading then it will also be easier and smoother to mount.
/Andreas
I have one body shock 10 005 with external threading diameter a little bit smaller to other one, so if I screw the cap gentle no worry but as soon as I want to screw the cap in the normal way, the cap goes in a wrong way because there is too much place between body threading and cap treading.
if you want I can send you this body and cap and you' ll see there is a problem.
#307
I will be using an Xray T4 this time as most of my T-Shox short customers are using this car.
Before I was using an Yokomo BD5.
I will be working very close with my good friend Alexander Hagberg (as I always do) but this time around I will also drive since my team drivers using T-Shox can not join for the race.
No. Alexander is not using T-Shox. He is under Xray contract so he is not allowed to use the obviously.
But if I can get within 6 sec of his pace in 5 min...that would be an achievement
/Andreas
Before I was using an Yokomo BD5.
I will be working very close with my good friend Alexander Hagberg (as I always do) but this time around I will also drive since my team drivers using T-Shox can not join for the race.
No. Alexander is not using T-Shox. He is under Xray contract so he is not allowed to use the obviously.
But if I can get within 6 sec of his pace in 5 min...that would be an achievement
/Andreas
#308
Thanx a lot to Andreas to have sent me all the parts missing/defective.
very nice!
Nicolas
very nice!
Nicolas
#309
Tech Adept
Thanx a lot to Andreas to have sent me all the parts missing/defective
#310
Just write to thanks Andreas too. Had some problems with shocks, and i´ve got nice and fast suport from him.
Justy waiting to the new item to arrive and start with testing in good conditions.
Justy waiting to the new item to arrive and start with testing in good conditions.
#311
and even if T shox seems "harder" than X ray shocks "on my hands" they work pretty nice on the track.
I noticed with same setup, springs and oil as X ray shocks the car has more steering.
#312
Tech Regular
I managed to buy a set of T-Shox from a friend and ran them today on my TC6.1 Worlds. Ran them with zero rebound, 30wt oil and RSD blue and silver springs - really liked the feeling that it gave my car and it really made a great difference. Impressed!
My question is about maintenance parts - what wears on the shocks that would possibly need replaced as part of a rebuild?
My question is about maintenance parts - what wears on the shocks that would possibly need replaced as part of a rebuild?
#313
Hi guys!
I just finish mine!
Quite complicated to assemble with only this small piece of paper... So after the first one, I look for the Vimeo page and everything was better...
By the way, I find the quality a little bit approximative, as I have defaults on the anodization... but I can live with that...
The other point bothering me is that it seems that I have a shock shorter than the others...
The shaft seems not to go as low as the others...
Is there any feedback about a similar problem?
From what can this problem come?
Thanks in advance.
I just finish mine!
Quite complicated to assemble with only this small piece of paper... So after the first one, I look for the Vimeo page and everything was better...
By the way, I find the quality a little bit approximative, as I have defaults on the anodization... but I can live with that...
The other point bothering me is that it seems that I have a shock shorter than the others...
The shaft seems not to go as low as the others...
Is there any feedback about a similar problem?
From what can this problem come?
Thanks in advance.
#314
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Hi guys!
I just finish mine!
Quite complicated to assemble with only this small piece of paper... So after the first one, I look for the Vimeo page and everything was better...
By the way, I find the quality a little bit approximative, as I have defaults on the anodization... but I can live with that...
The other point bothering me is that it seems that I have a shock shorter than the others...
The shaft seems not to go as low as the others...
Is there any feedback about a similar problem?
From what can this problem come?
Thanks in advance.
I just finish mine!
Quite complicated to assemble with only this small piece of paper... So after the first one, I look for the Vimeo page and everything was better...
By the way, I find the quality a little bit approximative, as I have defaults on the anodization... but I can live with that...
The other point bothering me is that it seems that I have a shock shorter than the others...
The shaft seems not to go as low as the others...
Is there any feedback about a similar problem?
From what can this problem come?
Thanks in advance.
2) Is it possible that you actually just got that one cap to screw on more, so the top of the shaft sticks out more? Maybe measure the length of the shock body + cap to see if that's what's going on?
I wasn't really able to get any support for my issues through the vendor in Hong Kong. He did talk to his distributor about them, but it wasn't helpful, and I didn't even get replacements for the torn O-rings inside the cap. I haven't followed up with AME directly yet, because just thinking about them makes me .
-Mike
#315
1) Where'd you get that sexy purple shock stand?
2) Is it possible that you actually just got that one cap to screw on more, so the top of the shaft sticks out more? Maybe measure the length of the shock body + cap to see if that's what's going on?
I wasn't really able to get any support for my issues through the vendor in Hong Kong. He did talk to his distributor about them, but it wasn't helpful, and I didn't even get replacements for the torn O-rings inside the cap. I haven't followed up with AME directly yet, because just thinking about them makes me .
-Mike
2) Is it possible that you actually just got that one cap to screw on more, so the top of the shaft sticks out more? Maybe measure the length of the shock body + cap to see if that's what's going on?
I wasn't really able to get any support for my issues through the vendor in Hong Kong. He did talk to his distributor about them, but it wasn't helpful, and I didn't even get replacements for the torn O-rings inside the cap. I haven't followed up with AME directly yet, because just thinking about them makes me .
-Mike
I had the same problem with my shafts, one sitting a bit lower, just make shore the shocks are the same length and should be fine.after a few runs my shocks settled and are now about the same.