5LikesAME T SHOX
02-07-2013, 09:08 PM
#286
HI Guys,
Back online after some internet issues.
We seem to have some issues which I will try to address.
1. The problems are not as big as they seem. I have sold over 500 shocks and only some of them end up here or in my email inbox. Nevertheless I try to have as many satisfied customers as possible even If its impossible to please everyone. Not even Apple have 100% satisfied customers and they are the best going around company in the world at the moment.
2.
- O-ring
- The O-ring and the O-ring pressure are correct.
Due to the design of the shock a higher O-ring pressure is needed to keep it sealed. If you take down the shim size or change to a thinner O-ring it will feel smoother in the hand but will leak easier then how it is designed to be.
If you feel that you need to change please do so, but the design is correct and I will obviously not refund this in any way.
The difference between my shox and regular are that the shock will not and should not feel as smooth as a std shock when you have it in your hand and put a perfect straight force onto the shock shaft.
My shock is designed to be as smooth and perfect during working action in the car, WITH lateral forces, which are much higher then people can imagine.
So a T-Shock which feels harder in your hands will be softer when it is in the car. And you will notice this when trying/using the T-Shox that a harder shock in your hand, will feel/roll very similar when mounted and used in your Touring car.
In the Schumacher car of Martin Hofer, with 450 oil, and std O-rings, std everything, he TQ:ed the last qualifying round of the ETS race in stock. If the shock would be to hard, he would not be able to do this result.
Just compare to any kind of Shock absorber in any kind of "real" racing. Mountain Bike, Moto Cross, Rally, cars, bikes or what ever. The guidance of the shock shaft and piston is extremely important, due to lateral forces which causes binding, which is something you really do not want to have in a shock absorber.
3. Missing parts
- In one batch of the new Short T-Shox, there seems to have been a mistake in packaging. This is of course extremely unfortunate.
I have already been in contact with my manufacturer about this issue and they have confirmed that mistakes has been made.
I have sent out information about this to my distributors and they should send out free of charge replacement of the parts which are missing.
HOWEVER, if they do not do this to you fast and direct, then please do the following
1. Send an email to [email protected]
2. Write what you bought and where you bought the product and when approx
3. Write which parts are missing
4. Write your address.
I will then send our replacements for you and also obviously use this information for my distributors as they should replace these items, but Hey, these are things new small companies needs to find out, improve to make sure that the customers are as happy and positive as possible.
However as I said, one can not have 100% satisfaction from all customers but I do try the very best I can.
Looking forward to any emails so that I can send out the parts missing so that you can enjoy your products as there where intended to be.
Best regards
Andreas
Back online after some internet issues.
We seem to have some issues which I will try to address.
1. The problems are not as big as they seem. I have sold over 500 shocks and only some of them end up here or in my email inbox. Nevertheless I try to have as many satisfied customers as possible even If its impossible to please everyone. Not even Apple have 100% satisfied customers and they are the best going around company in the world at the moment.
2.
- O-ring
- The O-ring and the O-ring pressure are correct.
Due to the design of the shock a higher O-ring pressure is needed to keep it sealed. If you take down the shim size or change to a thinner O-ring it will feel smoother in the hand but will leak easier then how it is designed to be.
If you feel that you need to change please do so, but the design is correct and I will obviously not refund this in any way.
The difference between my shox and regular are that the shock will not and should not feel as smooth as a std shock when you have it in your hand and put a perfect straight force onto the shock shaft.
My shock is designed to be as smooth and perfect during working action in the car, WITH lateral forces, which are much higher then people can imagine.
So a T-Shock which feels harder in your hands will be softer when it is in the car. And you will notice this when trying/using the T-Shox that a harder shock in your hand, will feel/roll very similar when mounted and used in your Touring car.
In the Schumacher car of Martin Hofer, with 450 oil, and std O-rings, std everything, he TQ:ed the last qualifying round of the ETS race in stock. If the shock would be to hard, he would not be able to do this result.
Just compare to any kind of Shock absorber in any kind of "real" racing. Mountain Bike, Moto Cross, Rally, cars, bikes or what ever. The guidance of the shock shaft and piston is extremely important, due to lateral forces which causes binding, which is something you really do not want to have in a shock absorber.
3. Missing parts
- In one batch of the new Short T-Shox, there seems to have been a mistake in packaging. This is of course extremely unfortunate.
I have already been in contact with my manufacturer about this issue and they have confirmed that mistakes has been made.
I have sent out information about this to my distributors and they should send out free of charge replacement of the parts which are missing.
HOWEVER, if they do not do this to you fast and direct, then please do the following
1. Send an email to [email protected]
2. Write what you bought and where you bought the product and when approx
3. Write which parts are missing
4. Write your address.
I will then send our replacements for you and also obviously use this information for my distributors as they should replace these items, but Hey, these are things new small companies needs to find out, improve to make sure that the customers are as happy and positive as possible.
However as I said, one can not have 100% satisfaction from all customers but I do try the very best I can.
Looking forward to any emails so that I can send out the parts missing so that you can enjoy your products as there where intended to be.
Best regards
Andreas
Thanks Andreas for your reply,
So I will list you the missing parts ( and defective parts),
for thinner shims I am far-sighted so I ordered several and I always keep enough without modification.
OK I understand your shocks need to be less smooth in the hands than others but I think, for all the people who don't know your shocks, it's something to write in the notice at the same time as using a reamer.
if we don't know, it's normal to think there is something wrong.
last training with some of best French drivers, all told me "there is a problem with your shocks"
I think it's like Sanwa SRG BLS, first time using it, it goes warm doing nothing and make very strange noise as is if it was out of order, but Sanwa wrote on the box both was normal because servo is always looking for its perfect neutral.
Best regards,
Nicolas Rouland
02-08-2013, 04:54 AM
#287
Hello
Just to add some balance to the discussion, I am running the STD t-shocks on my spec r and I had no problems and feel the car has become a lot easier to drive.
Just to add some balance to the discussion, I am running the STD t-shocks on my spec r and I had no problems and feel the car has become a lot easier to drive.
02-08-2013, 09:42 AM
#288
Tech Adept
I don't know how having extra friction/stiction can be right? Why would we use a reamer through the plastics holes to ensure a smooth action? When u build the things u can barely move them from the o'rings?
The shocks are near the most important thing on a cars setup if it has friction u will never det correct drop or consistent droop.
Why do we ensure our wishbones fall freely? Don't bother in the future as it obviously doe not matter? I will try my friends t shox's std ones and compare, I had not heard of a bad set till I built mine first hand is there other differences between the std one's and short ones parts are missing plastics are incorrect so it is possible something else is wrong!
The shocks are near the most important thing on a cars setup if it has friction u will never det correct drop or consistent droop.
Why do we ensure our wishbones fall freely? Don't bother in the future as it obviously doe not matter? I will try my friends t shox's std ones and compare, I had not heard of a bad set till I built mine first hand is there other differences between the std one's and short ones parts are missing plastics are incorrect so it is possible something else is wrong!
02-10-2013, 05:33 AM
#289
i just got the short shock kit, and tapered pistons. for reasons stated already on here, i am now asking for a refund from where i baught them from.
additional reasons...... i have one shock that has play inbetween the circlip, and the piston has play with oil in them, and the tapered pistons arent round. maybe machined off center a fraction, but they do not travel up the shock body, they lock up.
additional reasons...... i have one shock that has play inbetween the circlip, and the piston has play with oil in them, and the tapered pistons arent round. maybe machined off center a fraction, but they do not travel up the shock body, they lock up.
02-10-2013, 11:19 AM
#290
Tech Initiate
So I finally had a decent day of testing with the T-shox short. First time out with the shocks was definately a step backwards compared to my standard Xray shocks. I built them like Andreas showed in his tutorial, without any rebound springs 350cst oil and 3 x 1.2mm drilled pistons. The car felt fast the first three laps, after that it just got inconsistent, and you could see the car vibrating in the slower corners, also griproll was an issue. I tried HPI, Yokomo and AME springs and to my surprise, I liked the AME springs the best. My conclusion was that the o-rings inside of the shocks must have been to tight, 350cst oil and 3 x 1.2mm pistons should make the shocks feel light, but they weren't.
So I did a rebuilt of the shocks, I removed the big o-ring in the shockcap. Building the shocks without it was ten times easier.
Without the shockcap the damper felt smooth, so I left the lower part of the shock the way it was, but with the shockcap the damper felt completely different. So I removed the conical shim from the shockcap, which made the shock feel much smoother. I also wanted to try something new, so I put the short rebound spring the shock, below the piston, so it had negative rebound.
Today I had some time to test the "improved" T-shox. I began with HPI silver all round. The car didn't vibrate in slower corners, and never felt like griprolling. Second run I changed the HPI spring for AME Yellows, and again the car felt better with them.
So now it was time te set a decent 5 min run. I began with the Xray shocks with AME Yellow springs, the run was O.K. not particularly fast. For the second 5 min run I changed back to the T-shox with the AME yellow springs and again had a decent run and it was 1 second faster.
I'm not making any conclusions, but I can now finally run competitive with these shocks.
So I did a rebuilt of the shocks, I removed the big o-ring in the shockcap. Building the shocks without it was ten times easier.
Without the shockcap the damper felt smooth, so I left the lower part of the shock the way it was, but with the shockcap the damper felt completely different. So I removed the conical shim from the shockcap, which made the shock feel much smoother. I also wanted to try something new, so I put the short rebound spring the shock, below the piston, so it had negative rebound.
Today I had some time to test the "improved" T-shox. I began with HPI silver all round. The car didn't vibrate in slower corners, and never felt like griprolling. Second run I changed the HPI spring for AME Yellows, and again the car felt better with them.
So now it was time te set a decent 5 min run. I began with the Xray shocks with AME Yellow springs, the run was O.K. not particularly fast. For the second 5 min run I changed back to the T-shox with the AME yellow springs and again had a decent run and it was 1 second faster.
I'm not making any conclusions, but I can now finally run competitive with these shocks.
02-10-2013, 09:42 PM
#291
Hello
Did you find any leaking?
Did you find any leaking?
02-11-2013, 09:19 AM
#292
Tech Initiate
My shocks felt good all day. Maybe the shocks need rebuilding more often, but this is the only way for me to be able to use them.
02-11-2013, 10:42 AM
#294
So now it was time te set a decent 5 min run. I began with the Xray shocks with AME Yellow springs, the run was O.K. not particularly fast. For the second 5 min run I changed back to the T-shox with the AME yellow springs and again had a decent run and it was 1 second faster.
02-11-2013, 11:01 AM
#295
Tech Initiate
Chassis was a T4.
My fastest lap of the day was with the T-shox 10.464, 10.532 with Xray shocks.
My fastest lap of the day was with the T-shox 10.464, 10.532 with Xray shocks.
02-11-2013, 04:55 PM
#296
What about handling was it more consistence.
02-11-2013, 09:51 PM
#297
02-13-2013, 08:49 AM
#298
Tech Regular
Just built two sets of these... Both have no issues. The extra pressure on the oring is barely noticable. Hopefully get to run the car within the next month or so and see if I feel a difference.
02-14-2013, 06:21 AM
#299
Hi,
Thanks Andreas for your reply,
So I will list you the missing parts ( and defective parts),
for thinner shims I am far-sighted so I ordered several and I always keep enough without modification.
OK I understand your shocks need to be less smooth in the hands than others but I think, for all the people who don't know your shocks, it's something to write in the notice at the same time as using a reamer.
if we don't know, it's normal to think there is something wrong.
last training with some of best French drivers, all told me "there is a problem with your shocks"
I think it's like Sanwa SRG BLS, first time using it, it goes warm doing nothing and make very strange noise as is if it was out of order, but Sanwa wrote on the box both was normal because servo is always looking for its perfect neutral.
Best regards,
Nicolas Rouland
Thanks Andreas for your reply,
So I will list you the missing parts ( and defective parts),
for thinner shims I am far-sighted so I ordered several and I always keep enough without modification.
OK I understand your shocks need to be less smooth in the hands than others but I think, for all the people who don't know your shocks, it's something to write in the notice at the same time as using a reamer.
if we don't know, it's normal to think there is something wrong.
last training with some of best French drivers, all told me "there is a problem with your shocks"
I think it's like Sanwa SRG BLS, first time using it, it goes warm doing nothing and make very strange noise as is if it was out of order, but Sanwa wrote on the box both was normal because servo is always looking for its perfect neutral.
Best regards,
Nicolas Rouland
Yes thank you for the input. It might be a good idea to inform people about this since many seem to think this is an issue. I will look into it and see what I can do.
02-14-2013, 06:34 AM
#300