Yokomo MR4TC-BD
05-26-2005, 06:12 PM
#2101
Set Up
Does anyone have agood starting point for the car on carpet
05-26-2005, 06:32 PM
#2102
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Setup Q's
Just had a few questions. I noticed that Messami's LRP setup calls for the front C-hub to be mounted using the lower hinge pin hole. I tried this on my car but, the rim rubs on the suspension arm severely. Was this just a mistake on the setup or did he make any modifications. Also, when the front toe linkage is mounted upside down how many spacers should be placed under the front knuckle? Should you try to have the linkage parallel to the suspension arm?
05-26-2005, 06:37 PM
#2103
To run the bottom hole on the chub, you need to also move the plastic spacer from under the knuckle to the top of the knuckle. This'll move the axle down to clear your wheels. I'm not sure about this, but you may need a different ball stud for the top of the knuckle? Not sure if it'll have enough tread to screw into the top of the steering knuckle with the spacer on top...
05-26-2005, 08:01 PM
#2104
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Okay, here are the pics of the SpeedRacing aluminum steering knuckles.
Hi... are these the ones that would fit the TC4 bones? have you tried them already with the TC4 bones? i had to "polish" the inner portion of the stock steering knuckles as they were rubbing a little witht the TC4 bones...
05-26-2005, 08:27 PM
#2105
Originally Posted by flysti
how many of you guys use the battery brace? & do you think the brace would cause chassis tweak. the reason i ask is cause i've had a 415 tweak edition & always had this problem even without a brace.
i use the battery brace... we'hv never had tweak problems...
05-26-2005, 08:48 PM
#2107
Originally Posted by KilRuf
. Just becareful not to over tighten the HPI ball studs. They break very very easily if you use too much torque when tightening them down. Ti ones would be alot better....
Yeah, they break really easy. Be gentle when tightening them down on that aluminium. I had a few break with the plastic base on the Pro4. They are high stress, but low shear resistant.
05-26-2005, 08:56 PM
#2108
What parts would transfer over from my SD to a BD? I'm looking to get a BD, but I have hundreds of dollars in SD spares.
05-26-2005, 08:59 PM
#2109
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
What parts would transfer over from my SD to a BD? I'm looking to get a BD, but I have hundreds of dollars in SD spares.
05-26-2005, 09:11 PM
#2110
So everything but:
tranny,
bulkheads
gears
shock towers
tranny,
bulkheads
gears
shock towers
05-26-2005, 09:21 PM
#2111
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
Has HPI not realease Ti ones yet? There was talk of them when I stopped running HPI.
Yeah, they break really easy. Be gentle when tightening them down on that aluminium. I had a few break with the plastic base on the Pro4. They are high stress, but low shear resistant.
Yeah, they break really easy. Be gentle when tightening them down on that aluminium. I had a few break with the plastic base on the Pro4. They are high stress, but low shear resistant.
05-26-2005, 10:13 PM
#2112
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
I got my axles from Rainbow Ten in Japan.
05-26-2005, 10:16 PM
#2113
Originally Posted by diesel
Are those front axles made for the SD? I went through rayspeed's website...there ain't no axles made for the BD yet. Thanks.
05-26-2005, 10:20 PM
#2114
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey guys what's the recommended range of SPUR GEARS to use? 
-JBbiggest we've managed to fit in with minimal alteration to the bracket and a little chafering / beveling on the chassis is 120 (64pitch) ... If you plan on running mod... 120 is a good choice... If you don't like to dremel anything... 112 is the biggest.
all around spur for me is 108. stock, 19T and Mod.
05-26-2005, 10:26 PM
#2115
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
So everything but:
tranny,
bulkheads
gears
shock towers
tranny,
bulkheads
gears
shock towers
Although all the arms in the SD series are compatible with the BD, the BD comes with new HD (heavy duty) arms already...