cyclone speed

but how do i know if its worn out ( the membrane ) or not ?

ShaunMac

You will have a leaky shock with inconsistent rebound.

cyclone speed

What does it do by standing the shocks or laying them down ?
Ive been told that standing them will decrease weight transfer and make the car more responsive . Is it the right thing?
Ive notissed that at the IFMAR 2008 everybody is laying there shocks on the rear and standing them in the front ? Why ?
thanks

mac853

Could somebody tell me if i want to have a full option Cyclone S, so which is the better and easier way: to purchase a Cyclone TC then changed it with a tub lower deck, or just buy a genuine Cyclone S then full modified it?
And somebody could tell me if tub really weighs much more then carbon lower deck?

In the case our org. has created already a new race class, with 1600G and 3100KV(if you prefer BL) then with black sport tuned if BR, so i want understand if Cyclone S with TC parts is worthy or full options Ta05 is better.

Best regards

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

The tub is a lot heavier than a CF deck, dont remember how much by. Try searching the cyclone s thread.

mac853

OK, maybe i don't need to add lead on the tub, thanks.

Could you then somebody tell me if the carbon top deck really match on the tub?
In the case on the HB site, the option parts list is included.

Best regards

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Pretty much all the parts match the tub chassis so you'll be good...

If you look though the Cyclone S thread, they probably got all the answers you're looking for

mac853

Excuse me, there are just very little kind, they convince me as they are just drifters!

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

well that just sucks..

the only other place that would have a good amount of info about the "S" chassis would be the USVTA thread - there are a lot of guys running that chassis in that class

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Korey

fully agree with the above - basic assumption before adjusting spring preload is that the car is "flat", otherwise it's a loss of time.

so you are basically using a metal plate which allows you to clamp the car on to keep it 100% flat while screwing on the top deck? Smart... never thought about it, I always asked a buddy to hold it on the pit board for me while I turned the allen wrench. Where can these boards be bought, please?

I would also like to get your perspective re rebound.

I just cannot understand how rebound (as set with the membrane / shock fill) can have any influence on the handling - my understanding is, the little force the membrane has should be completely washed away by the spring stiffness when the shock is compressed. Likewise, when the shock is "depressed" (english???) ie the inside wheel lifts or the car wheel travels through a "rut", that same little force is not enough to keep the wheel planted on the track for the split second when it should. So why do all setup sheets focus on rebound? Please note that I understand adjusting rebound with foam discs, as this creates substantial stiffness once the (closed-cell) foam compresses...

Thanks for shedding some light on this - I asked earlier, but no-one dared to answer, which leads me to think that, as per most "black magic" setup tricks, people love to talk and exchange advice without really understanding the fundamentals... the wonders of the internet, if you want

Paul

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

Gotta love the internet, so here's my $0.02 worth:

You're right, shock rebound has nothing to do with adding to the spring rate.
What it does is slightly reduce the damping on the rebound stroke.

If you have no rebound at all, the damping will be relatively equal between the compression and the rebound stroke. When you push the shaft in and back out at the same speed, it should feel the same.
But when you add rebound, the effective damping during compression will be slightly higher, and the rebound damping will be slightly lower. Pushing the shaft in should feel harder to do at the same speed (especially during the top half of the stroke) than pulling it back out.
With this configuration the spring will return the wheel back down quicker.

I also experimented with the 2-stage pistons at one point. But they produce an extreme difference between compression/rebound damping, which I found to be overkill.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

http://www.ppdbillet.com/hb_cyclone.html

Thats where I get my tweak plate. They also have some lipo weight ballast accessories as well.

Pete did a good job on explaining rebound. How it affects the car... I find it usually effects how quick the car comes back to center. So on tight, high grip tracks where you need the extra dampening going into the corner, when comming out of the corner the car will flatten out quicker.

The opposite is true with less rebound. I like less rebound on smoother, longer, sweeping tracks. It seems to make the car more balanced through the long sweepers and such.

-Korey

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

I love the Internet but it wouldn't help without you guys taking the time to help us understand

How much rebound is to much ???

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Just depends on your track conditions. I dont pay too much attention to it to be perfectly honest. I do know when I build my shocks, they come out at 75-100% rebound. I just make sure they are all the same. I do notice if I havent rebuilt my shocks, they rebound less. Then I just clean them out, replace the oil and any other parts if need be.

-Korey

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

It's some nice info on setting rebound on the Tamiya 416 thread. I plan on trying it out when I rebuild my car tomorrow for this weekends carpet run.