artwork

iTrader: (88)

I was just wondering if anyone had an honest opinion of the durability of the TC? I have been looking at this car but have not run an HPI car since the Pro4 days. What would be the weakest link on the car?

Any input would be appreciated.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I've broken steering knuckles the most... But that seems to be pretty common with a lot of cars to be honest. I've broken one arm... but I would have a few of those on hand too. Other than that, I just replace parts when they become worn out, which hasn't been very many so far.

-Korey

artwork

iTrader: (88)

sounds very positive...sent you a PM!

ShaunMac

It's a good idea to keep some steering blocks, hub carriers, c-hubs and a-arms in your box. These parts usually take the brunt of most impacts. I've broken a few steering blocks, one c-hub, one hub carrier and somehow I managed to break the molded swaybar ball stud off a rear a-arm.

The Cyclone has been a very durable car for the nearly 2 years I have been racing it. The newer TC version should be just as durable.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

For me the diffs are the weakest link. Unless you buy the prospec diffs, expect to have diff bolts snapping on you. I even had an AE diff bolt snap the head off.

Raffell

Just wanted to thank some of the local HotBodies Cyclone drivers for participating in the Team Orion Invitational Race November 1st and 2nd at Bending Corners Raceway.

Duy Khoung
Nelson Khoung
Carl Hyndman
Hiro K
Craig Nordstrom

You can check out a few photos of the drivers and BCR at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XHqTEt2194

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The one of the best things about the TC kit, is it comes with the Pro spec diff already

-Korey

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Hahahahahahaha

Do work!

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

I second the comment on the original diff. The original and titanium screws do snap, usually when you tap something or someone while on power. The pro diff is simply awesome, both in terms of durability and performance... it's waaaaaay smoother.

The only non-stock item I run is the alum steering blocks ... I managed to snap a stock one. Other than that, I'm only down one arm and a hinge pin so far this indoor season.

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

When would you use rebound foam ???
I see it on some set up sheets.

My fingers are sore right now from getting them all at 75%

Thanks for all the help, You are making me faster and faster with every page on here.

cyclone x

iTrader: (3)

when you giys talk about 75% rebound how do u make the shock do that.

RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

Korey, i just found the silicone tip for the rebound adjusting. Her is one even better, how about finding some "Caster Clip" from another car company. usually from nitro cars. they use them to adjust caster since they use pivot ball suspension. just a thought. then you would have all the same sizes, and unclips rather than taking the shock end off.??? just a thought.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

You don't have to take the shock end off using the silicone method.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

The steering knuckles and the ball studs used are crap. Get some titanium (sp) ball studs and stock up on knuckles. It would be nice to be able to buy a pair of knuckles rather than one knuckle and one hub.....but you use to run the pro 4 so I'm sure it was the same back then. Great car though. Where do you plan on getting your parts at???

Matt Pocknell

Running the same kit from about Feb to now, most weekends racing in mod and 10.5, i think I have slightly bent one driveshaft. All other replacements are due to normal wear (belts, spurs, etc).