savageguy

Make sure your EPA is setup properly as if it goes to far it can hit the swaybar holder and get stuck for a short amount of time.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

1.) Check to make sure the bottom of the shock body didnt come loose. Anything with the twist on shock bottom has a tendency to do that. They need to be pretty darn tight. Also make sure the bladder/diaphram on the top of the shock was seated correctly when you tighten the cap down. I've seen some shocks other that the Hot Bodies ones where the bladder slips off and goes inside the shock body!

2.) Just make sure you use a little tiny bit of blue locktite if it keeps backing out on you.

3.) The idea here is to make sure the servo arm is pointing straight up (90 degree to the chassis) and have the car going straight. I always get the servo arm as close as possble, then use subtrim (not normal trim... it's a little different) to get the servo arm perfect.

Then I adjust the turnbuckle going from the servo arm to the steering assembly on the car so that points perfectly straight. After that adjust your main steering turnbuckles (the ones that go out to the steering knuckles) so those point thew wheels perfectly straight. Those links should be pretty equal left to right as well.

That should give you geometry that will allow you to use almost equal steering endpoints left to right. I always drive slow circles with my car and take note if the circles have equal diameter. That will tell you if your steering endpoints need to be adjusted.

4.) Setup changes you could try would be a little bit less rear toe in, laying down the front shocks, slightly softer front spring, or go to 1mm of shims under the inside of the front camber link instead of the 2mm shim. Try each one of those changes one at a time and see what you like best.

5.) That diff is amazing... You need to make sure it stays clean though. They will only get gritty really fast is the diff is too loose or you are running on really dusty conditions. If after you clean and relube it still feels gritty, I would replace the main diff balls with some carbide or good quality Ceramic Nitride diff balls and flip the diff rings over so they are fresh again. That should help prolong the time needed to rebuild them. Make sure the thrust bearing is in good shape as well.

Hope that helps!!! Wow... that was a lot of writing.

-Korey

kev-h

Cheers guys
Korey: do you use the thrust bearing that came with the kit or the prebuilt bearing as made by rc hobeys.

kev

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

Just ordered the stuff to run a rear gear diff i'll let you guys know how it works out compared to the ball diff

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The one peice setups are definently easier to work with in my past experiences with other cars. But I personally haven't tried the ones that you are talking about in the cyclone though. I don't think anyone makes one to fit the new 2.6mm diff screw that comes in the pro diff setup.

-Korey

prodriver

Hi Guys got a few questions regarding TC after first run today.

1 the shocks leak after 2 runs they lost all rebound and shaft was covered with oil car bottoms out.

2 the screws in the chassis keep coming loose they came out and the blocks moved and hinge pins fell out.

3 after setting up according to book i have more steering to the right and very twitchy.

4 plenty of steering going into corners but lack of steering mid and exit of corner.

5 Pro diff very smooth for first run but very gritty after that.

Any help on any of these would be appreciated as this is the first time I have run a cyclone.


kev-h

problem one I have this prob to mine leak from the tops and from the bottoms even tried new o rings and bladders.

problem two thread lock sorts this as already said

problem three atv setting on the transmitter.

problem four I have the same problem car goes in nice but then understeers mid and exit of corner... if anyone else can help...

problem five get yourself the covers really are good.

Thanks

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Actually you should have it like in the hara build notes, dont remember the link.
The servo horn and the turnbuckle should be at 90degrees to each other. That way as the servo rotates it pulls right and left evenly.

birdman

http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/ or http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/AH/sett...cyclone603.jpg

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

nice work birdman

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

That would be nice to see what it says in english

mwoods

has any one tred the tc top deck and the Chassis posts, torsion control. on the moorespeed car ? just wondering if its better then the standed top deck i run i tarmac track

thanks mark

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

You also need the TC chassis plate to make it work since it has the holes for the ATC posts. I would think the ATC posts would be beneficial if the tarmac had quite a bit of grip and you wanted to tune out some chassis flex

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Thats true, I was just trying to make it easier to explain hahaha. But now that that picture is there, everyone will have a better idea. Thanks!

-Korey

protyne

iTrader: (1)

Hi bro, I'm running a GTB/SS10.5 on my Cyclone S as well. Started off with 5.7 FDR and after 5min on a cool evening (28~30deg) , the motor without any heatsink was at 118F.

Do I keep gearing down till I'm at around 140~150F so I dun hit the max of 160~175F stated on the Novak manual? Can temp alone be used to find the sweet spot for gearing?

Thanks!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

you can gear according to temp. at 118 you can get a little more if you're still looking for a bit more over all speed. If you can get it to around 150 after 5 min and you're happy with the over all speed then all should be fine. You do have room to work with temp wise. Good luck bro.