Hot Bodies Cyclone
02-27-2008, 05:27 PM
I dont know why you break so many c-hubs, it's not common.
Try this....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rldCup2008.jpg
Copy it carefully, but as you run on low/med traction i suggest using 3mm under the front upper inner links, 5.5 droop and don't have the 2mm of rear roll bar exposed.
Stew
Try this....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rldCup2008.jpg
Copy it carefully, but as you run on low/med traction i suggest using 3mm under the front upper inner links, 5.5 droop and don't have the 2mm of rear roll bar exposed.
Stew
thanks for that setup Stew. What will happen if I don't put 1.5mm spacers underneathe all the pivot blocks? Which sway bars should I be using for low-medium grip carpet?
The hot setup at our track is 4.5mm ride height, should I set droop to .5mm all around?
What do you think about going from the front ball diff back to the spool?
02-27-2008, 05:28 PM
I always find this kind of behaviour relates to the diff. Major and serious handling issues like this are rarely related to geometry and setup, IMO. It also could be a massive tweak, in which case it will only happen when turning one way.
Unlike my old xray's, I find the cyclone is particularly sensitive to diff setup. Too loose or too tight, and the car just loops around in exactly the way you describe. I'd get rid of the front diff so you only have one to worry about, and experiment with the tightness of the rear. Use the one way for stock 27t or 19t class rather than the spool. Don't forget to locktite the diff nut once you're done experimenting.
Unlike my old xray's, I find the cyclone is particularly sensitive to diff setup. Too loose or too tight, and the car just loops around in exactly the way you describe. I'd get rid of the front diff so you only have one to worry about, and experiment with the tightness of the rear. Use the one way for stock 27t or 19t class rather than the spool. Don't forget to locktite the diff nut once you're done experimenting.
02-27-2008, 06:37 PM
02-27-2008, 06:42 PM
agreed, take the wheels off and un tweak on a flat board, tweak stations can be changed by anything on the car such as preloads. Teak stations are better used as a "check" once your all done setting the car up to make sure something like the preloads/ride height are all even.
02-27-2008, 07:04 PM
how do i de-tweak chassis on glass?
02-27-2008, 07:10 PM
02-27-2008, 07:13 PM
nice i saw someone do that thanks man!
02-27-2008, 07:18 PM
02-27-2008, 07:23 PM
02-27-2008, 07:49 PM
i would never do that unless i was trying to remove the bacteria from it.
02-27-2008, 08:03 PM
LMAO!
HAHAHA, its a inside joke between us... Darn Jav, I have nothing to give you a hard time, I will get something this year! I promise 
02-28-2008, 04:03 AM
thanks for that setup Stew. What will happen if I don't put 1.5mm spacers underneathe all the pivot blocks? Which sway bars should I be using for low-medium grip carpet?
The hot setup at our track is 4.5mm ride height, should I set droop to .5mm all around?
What do you think about going from the front ball diff back to the spool?
The hot setup at our track is 4.5mm ride height, should I set droop to .5mm all around?
What do you think about going from the front ball diff back to the spool?
If your track is smooth enough to run 4.5mm rideheight then that would be better, here in the UK this is rarely possible though. If you choose to run 4.5mm rideheight then it will be sensible to change the droop to 4.5 too.
I'm not sure what you mean by .5mm droop, we will set out droop using a conventional gauge.....
The cars diff can be up to 20% of the overall handling of the car, make sure it is super smooth with no slip.....this is difficult to achive using the 3racing unit, best to try the standard HB type.
Spool is best!....it'll help the balance of the car, in stock cornerspeed is important, a diff has very little and really a spool isn't so much harder to drive.....just different....
02-28-2008, 04:53 AM
thanks for that setup Stew. What will happen if I don't put 1.5mm spacers underneathe all the pivot blocks? Which sway bars should I be using for low-medium grip carpet?
The hot setup at our track is 4.5mm ride height, should I set droop to .5mm all around?
What do you think about going from the front ball diff back to the spool?
The hot setup at our track is 4.5mm ride height, should I set droop to .5mm all around?
What do you think about going from the front ball diff back to the spool?
02-28-2008, 05:07 AM
Im a little confused how you are setting droop? When you say 4.5mm ride height and 4.5mm droop, do you mean no droop at all?
the way i set droop is I put the ride height gauge under the chassis over the desired amount of droop. For example, if ride height is 4.5mm, I will lift the chassis to 5mm using the ride height gauge. Then adjusting the droop screw until that tire is barely touching the surface.
I don't use a specialized droop gauge.
the way i set droop is I put the ride height gauge under the chassis over the desired amount of droop. For example, if ride height is 4.5mm, I will lift the chassis to 5mm using the ride height gauge. Then adjusting the droop screw until that tire is barely touching the surface.
I don't use a specialized droop gauge.
02-28-2008, 05:34 AM
Im a little confused how you are setting droop? When you say 4.5mm ride height and 4.5mm droop, do you mean no droop at all?
the way i set droop is I put the ride height gauge under the chassis over the desired amount of droop. For example, if ride height is 4.5mm, I will lift the chassis to 5mm using the ride height gauge. Then adjusting the droop screw until that tire is barely touching the surface.
I don't use a specialized droop gauge.
the way i set droop is I put the ride height gauge under the chassis over the desired amount of droop. For example, if ride height is 4.5mm, I will lift the chassis to 5mm using the ride height gauge. Then adjusting the droop screw until that tire is barely touching the surface.
I don't use a specialized droop gauge.