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Old 11-07-2008, 03:21 AM
  #14401  
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Originally Posted by kingpops
What pinion/spur combo(64dpi) do people run to get around 3.6fdr which is the aproximate gear ratio for 17.5 on a track I am about to run on. I see that 85spur and 50-53pinion will give the ratio(on TC 2.16 internal) but will the gears mesh? I have tried 78/48 and they are mile apart
Matt

For 64p your looking for pinions in the 50 range. I was looking for something like 84spur with a 53 pinion with 17.5. Go with 48P that's what i did. Heck if you can get the spur i got the rite pinions to go with it if you need.

Also for kambah your after approx a 53-54mm roll out with the 17.5. Ill be testing the 54mm roll out this Sunday and seeing how it goes
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Pocknell
Rebound is how far/fast the shock shaft extends due to the pressures in the shock, without counting the rebound the spring causes.

For instance, I run 75-100% rebound outdoors to try and generate some responsiveness. Indoors the cars are too responsive, so I run closer to 50% rebound.

Matt.
How can i adjust rebound?
By the way , can i make the car more responsive by standing the shocks ?
If the car is too responsive , can it make the rear end slide ?
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:45 PM
  #14403  
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Originally Posted by edseb
Fill them up with the shock standing vertically, and add a little extra oil so that when you put the bladder it will squish some out. Bladder shocks work different than emulsifying shocks that you see in electric offroad buggies. In bladder shocks you fill them up almost to the top, then work the piston in and out to make sure you didn't trap any air bubbles. You can also use a Ride Shock Pump to vacume out any remaining air, but if you let the bubbles work themselves out you could probably skip that tool. After working the shocks, let them sit vertically for at least 5-10 mintues to let any bubbles work there way to the top and escape. Next, with the shock shaft extended, put the bladder on top without the cap. Press the center part of the bladder down and let the excess oil bleed out the sides till the bladder has a nice seat (yeah it makes a little mess). You then can screw on the top cap. For less rebound you can bleed the oil like before, but push the shock shaft in half way (you can fine tune by pushing the shock shaft more or less in at this step). This will displace more unwanted oil in building and bleed off so rebound from displaced oil will be less when on the track. For more rebound, skip the step, or you can run with foam on top of bladder since kick back will be more aggressive. Measure the rebound when you push the shaft in all the way by checking how far it rebounds. You can do this with calipers. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks. Thats the kind of info I was looking for. The book doesn't go into much detail.
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:29 PM
  #14404  
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Default any new car kit from HB CYCLONE

pls post some picture of new TC spec or protoype tc

coz im looking tooo..thk alot...
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:51 PM
  #14405  
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Default cyclone

noob question for a hot bodies cyclone.

I was looking at a used cyclone ( I think Black) version ( I know it's not an S) to run in the VTA class. The current owner hit something and bent a RT front axle, he had to order a new one from Japan ?

Is there any place in the US that sells parts to this model car ?

thanks
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:28 PM
  #14406  
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Originally Posted by miket3
noob question for a hot bodies cyclone.

I was looking at a used cyclone ( I think Black) version ( I know it's not an S) to run in the VTA class. The current owner hit something and bent a RT front axle, he had to order a new one from Japan ?

Is there any place in the US that sells parts to this model car ?

thanks

Tower and Stormers carrys parts.
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott B
Tower and Stormers carrys parts.
If your local shop does not have parts you can always use www.hotbodiesonline.net

-j
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:43 AM
  #14408  
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Originally Posted by miket3
noob question for a hot bodies cyclone.

I was looking at a used cyclone ( I think Black) version ( I know it's not an S) to run in the VTA class. The current owner hit something and bent a RT front axle, he had to order a new one from Japan ?

Is there any place in the US that sells parts to this model car ?

thanks
Speedtechrc.com I just ordered from them they have a lot of the newer tc parts along with the 3racing and jaad parts
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Old 11-10-2008, 12:25 PM
  #14409  
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Originally Posted by Anemic_SluG
If your local shop does not have parts you can always use www.hotbodiesonline.net

-j
Good luck with that.
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Old 11-10-2008, 12:36 PM
  #14410  
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Quick question...I'm playing around with my own carpet foam setup.Just trying different ideas.Running 1mm spacers all around at the moment. I think I could use some anti dive in the front.The Q is...what would be the difference between raising the FR.5mm or lowering the ff .5mm? Hope thats clear.Thanks,Mario.
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:17 PM
  #14411  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Good luck with that.

Have you had a problem? I have ordered a ton of D4 parts from them and a few Touring car parts, all orders were complete and they had most everything. Shipping was ok.
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Old 11-10-2008, 02:50 PM
  #14412  
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RC Market, did you try those Xray ECS driveshafts (the 52mm ones i think) in your cyclone yet? Im still lookin forward to hear if they fit or not :P

Last edited by Syber Serulean; 11-10-2008 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 11-10-2008, 02:55 PM
  #14413  
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Originally Posted by Anemic_SluG
Have you had a problem? I have ordered a ton of D4 parts from them and a few Touring car parts, all orders were complete and they had most everything. Shipping was ok.
This is a sore subject out here in Northern Cali. I won't go into it on the boards. I'll just leave it at that
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Old 11-10-2008, 03:36 PM
  #14414  
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean
RC MART, did you try those Xray ECS driveshafts (the 52mm ones i think) in your cyclone yet? Im still lookin forward to hear if they fit or not :P
There shouldn't be any reason they shouldn't fit. I am waiting for nexusracing to get them in and see what the price is before I commit. The expensive part is you have to switch to xray c-hubs which require not only the c-hub but the outer hinge pin, drilling a larger hole in the arm, getting the hat bushings for the c-hub, and then get the axles and hope the bearings all fit.
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Old 11-10-2008, 03:51 PM
  #14415  
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hello,

i'm considering coming back to on-road and was thinking of getting the cyclone s for spec racing here. however, wanted to check with all of you before i squeeze the trigger on a s kit or is there a revised version coming out soon?

i checked the hb website and the newest is the fully decked tc, but was wondering if there was a budget version of that coming out.

any word???

thanks,
hs
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