STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

That particular question is going to be an opinion type answer based on driving style. I have my on theory of what should be done but someone else might see things differently. Just about every answer on this thread is based on a racers opinion of what has worked for them....then there are those racers that try to give book answers but have never even tried what they have suggested. No matter what the replies may be to this question just take them for what they're worth and try some of the suggestions you may get and see what works for you.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

We have been beating a dead horse for quite some time now and this better tomorrow that we keep hearing about is called RCMARKET......

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

Yes you can but you will need the 2.6 thrust washers, balls and T-nut.

Cruisaaja

Hey guys

I shere couple pics of my TC if you`re intresting

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC063.jpg

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC064.jpg

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC065.jpg

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC066.jpg

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC067.jpg

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC068.jpg

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC070.jpg

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...cloneTC060.jpg

dizzy1

iTrader: (29)

I have tried to get the 2.6mm HB diff screw to work, it doesn't work correctly. Its about 8mm longer than the old screw and you will find that because of this, you have to use alot of spacers and shims to take up the space, otherwise it binds on the end of the CVD. I was able to shim it, but you end up with the screw floating high in the outdrive and you can that the spacers washers continue to catch and grab on the screw, making the diff action not as smooth. Best advice, stick with the AE screw or just get the pro-diff.

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

Dizzy1 ,,, Were you using the old aluminum diff half's, delrin or plastic. ???? I will look again at the two screws in the morning just to be sure. But 8mm??? thats a big difference.
I used the Cyclone D4 2.6 screws, I used that one with no spacers/shims all last summer with the old aluminum diff half's. At first I re-taped the stock T-nut to fit the 2.6 screw, I later found the right T-nut at RCMARKET and everything worked great.
I'm using the 44mm steel axles, this summer I tried the new POM pro spec and it only works in the back, it's to long for the front. (Maybe that is something like the problem you had???)
So the aluminum pro spec works fine in the front or the back in my Cyclone but the POM only works in the back.
There are lots of people using the HB 2.6 screw in the old diff without any problems.
If you look back about 30 or 40 pages you will find the discussion on the 2.6 screw in the old diff.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Very nice but, where's the LIPO?

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

STLNLST is right. i've seen some wack setups work great for one guy and be un-driveable for another.

IMO the best source for fundamentals is an xray setup book or the XXXmain chassis setup guide.

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

Hey guys need some input here. I am working on a US parts solution for the cyclone right now. Prices will be more than rc market but obviously shipping time and price will be less. I am also trying to keep the prices on par with hotbodies online some maybe more some maybe less.

Right now I am going to start out small and see where it goes but wanted to get input on what you would like to see stocked. On my list thus far are the new tc arms, frp rear decks, 4 degree carbon c hubs, pro spec rear diff, and possibly putting together some purple aluminum screw kits. Anybody have any other suggestions?

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

To me there are a lot of important things which wear out on the car. Sounds like you are looking to start your own little supply company.

If that is the case pretty much anything which needs gerenal replacement is important including knuckles and hubs, i imagine quality aluminium versions (not 3 racing) would be good, but they are expensive and will be a killer for you with the initial outlay. Universals/CVDs...
I would also stock universal rebuild kits but im not sure if people rebuild there universals much.

I found top decks a pain to get a while back. Some people locally used to complain about bending the upper bulkheads, but i dont know how durable the new ones are.

Oh also belts and centre pulleys :P

DustinR

iTrader: (10)

TO THOSE WHO ARE HAVING PROBLUMS GETTING HOT BODIES PARTS:

You can order directly from HB USA. If you have part numbers the process could not be any easier.

Go to http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/index2.php?lang=en and use the search tab from there. If you have part numbers this works super well. Even with descriptions search works well. If you are having trouble finding a part for your car open the kits section and then the "Standard Pars" link. Then you can scroll through all parts for the car. Most of the parts even have pics.

Hot Bodies is aware of the kit availability problems with kits and is actively working to ensure that this does not happen again.

If there are any questions about this process please let me know.

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

Yeah the aluminum stuff and large chassis pieces are hard on the initial outlay of what I am working with but that is something I would like to supply at a later date. But yes thanks for the heads up on belts and pulleys. Not sure about the universals ill wait to see what everyone says about them.

Essentially just trying to get a supply of parts into the us so we can all keep running the cyclone instead jumping ship to a better supplied manufacturer...if I can make some kind of profit eventually than that's all the better but I know for a while the profit will be going right back in to supply everybody with more parts.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Well although you mean well you gotta be sensible and at least look to make a little profit. Im sure people would much rather work with a local supplier who can express mail things easily, you would still be offering a valuable service and its only fair to get something in return for it.

Although i suspect you are going to have problems getting stock in any quantity anyway. If you are dealing with shops as opposed to hot bodies direct then im sure you will be able to get some kind of bulk discount rate (but i guess you are already on top of that).

The main problem with universals and CVDs is that everyone uses different things. Personally i only use the Steel HD Unis. I have some aluminium ones in the rear, but only because they came with a kit.

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

Yeah the end result is going to hopefully make a profit on all of it...if not well then I will just have a lot of spares for my two cars lol

Dorigecko

iTrader: (3)

HI,

I need to know the metric dimensions of the rear bearings of a cyclone S. Could somebody tell me what they run?

I don't own one and never have, and the one i've been given is void of rear bearings. Cheers.