Hot Bodies Cyclone
#8851
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Hi guys, sorry this is a newb question, but I need some help. I have a cyclone that I just bought, used. I am confused. The diff in the back (which is purple aluminum) is aftermarket. The diff cup joints have a bigger slot They have a little blue spacer to fit into the diff. Does anybody have an idea on which kind they are (the blue spacers) or a part number. Also the diff nut which is on it is different than the spares I have, they are both plastic. Is there an upgrade for these or are they ok? Thanks!!
Here are pics:
Here are pics:
#8852
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
thanks zombie. i really need somthing to work off of for this year's nats. the race is going to be held at a smaller high grip track which is some what similar to last year's track. so if any one knows where to find a setup like that as well that would be nice. right now i just dont have the corner speed.
#8853
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
Hi guys, sorry this is a newb question, but I need some help. I have a cyclone that I just bought, used. I am confused. The diff in the back (which is purple aluminum) is aftermarket. The diff cup joints have a bigger slot They have a little blue spacer to fit into the diff. Does anybody have an idea on which kind they are (the blue spacers) or a part number. Also the diff nut which is on it is different than the spares I have, they are both plastic. Is there an upgrade for these or are they ok? Thanks!!
Here are pics:
Here are pics:
the plastic parts are just fine and normal, you can see the actual nut inside. if they are a different size then that means they came with the 3racing diff, and are probably better then the stock one since the stock ones are prone to breaking. but they are probably made for the diff you have. so i suggest leaving them in.
#8854
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
haha, Those are what blades are. I have heard about them for the longest time. Thanks so much. The question I have about the thrust washer I believe it is called is that the two little arms that stick out are bent back a little bit. I think if I try to tighten the diff again they might break. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up extras as I have heard people can have problems with their diff. Thanks again for all the help!
#8856
How tough are the regular plastic diffs? What's the most durable?
#8857
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
thanks zombie. i really need somthing to work off of for this year's nats. the race is going to be held at a smaller high grip track which is some what similar to last year's track. so if any one knows where to find a setup like that as well that would be nice. right now i just dont have the corner speed.
#8858
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Thanks again for the help. Ifound the 3racing diff and blades online. However, I am having trouble finding the nut. As you can see from the pictures a few posts back, the one that was in the car has a little metal nut that is pressure fitted into the plastic diff nut. The spare one didn't have a nut inside. On the one in the car the metal nut is round, while the spare plastic piece has a hex shape to accomodate a metal nut. can you buy the diff nut byitself or do you have to get a whole new kit?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#8859
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
yes there are replacement nuts. they have this removable style because the lock nuts that go in there are suppose to be replaced when you rebuild the diff to make sure that the diff wont loosen itself. i dont have my manual on me at the moment to tell you the exact nut, but i am pretty sure its also the same nut in the pro4. so if you do a bit of searching around you should be able to find them.
#8860
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
the plastic diffs are really just fine. however the reason why they switched to the aluminum diffs with the blades in the upgraded cars (hara, surk, and andy moore) is because over time the outdirves will get elongated and have alot of play between the outdirve and the pin on the bone, that is why they went with aluminum and blades. they also tried to solve this issue with the pro4 by going to delrin outdrives but over time those hole got elongated as well so they just chose to go with aluminum this time and then you just have to change out the blades and not have to rebuild the entire diff to replace the outdirves.
#8861
#8862
#8863
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
K, well after a trip to the hobby shop, I found some diff nuts that work. They aren't made for the diff. they are by dubro, 2mm hex nuts. The guy there didn't know anything at all about diffs, or parts for them, so I had to go on my own. I think they might need a little shim, 2.5 might have worked better or 3mm but I have these now so I guess i'll try them till they break.
#8864
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
I have a quick question. I have a front one-way, center one-way, and rear diff. Can someone tell me if this is set up right? If I grab the top of the larger belt and move it forward, it gives power to the front wheels and spins the spur gear. The back belt doesn't move. The rear belt is set up so if you grab the top and move it back it moves the rear wheels but not the spur gear. Is this correct?
Thanks!
Justin
Thanks!
Justin
#8865
I have a quick question. I have a front one-way, center one-way, and rear diff. Can someone tell me if this is set up right? If I grab the top of the larger belt and move it forward, it gives power to the front wheels and spins the spur gear. The back belt doesn't move. The rear belt is set up so if you grab the top and move it back it moves the rear wheels but not the spur gear. Is this correct?
Thanks!
Justin
Thanks!
Justin