mike_d

iTrader: (84)

Hey guys i just picked up Moore WCE Cyclone and am wondering if anyone has a good starting setup for 17.5/ blinky with rubber tires on a medium sized carpet track?

Gillblade

Hello... Thinking of getting a Cyclone TC and im wondering if theres any Geardiff that slides in between the bulkheads with no larger modifications. Does the Spec-R diff for TCX fit the TC??..

vi4o

iTrader: (3)

I ordered one of these Spec-R Diffs for my WCE, but I am not sure if it will fit, but according to some guys on the local track "You should only shim it!". So I am going to check it out when it arrives, and will post here.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

yes...you CAN put the TCX gear diff in the cyclones and cyclones TC..I did it and posted pics a while ago (like march of this year)..

i used a TON and i mean a ton of shims to get it to center up properly - but the one thing is does need is new bulkhead bearings with a smaller inner diameter...because you are putting so many shims on the diff, the 'thicker' molder part of the diff (where the bearing in the TCX is supposed to sit) is covered by shims ...and the actual bulkhead bearings are out over the outdrive part of the diffs - I ran my TC with it, and it felt good, but there was also a ton of drag in the car since the diffs weren't riding on bearings

I never got a chance to measure the since bearings you'd actually need - but the need to be way smaller on the inner side..I think the stock ones are 12x10 -you might need a 12x8...

Sadly, I've since sold my TC, so I can't tell you exactly how many shims I had on either side of the pulley

vi4o

iTrader: (3)

I thought that the distance between the bulkheads in the TCX is only 3mm smaller than the TC and WCE. WoW maybe it is better to machine new bearing holders which are wider but it woud be a tough job

mike_d

iTrader: (84)

Has anyone ever used these on there TC or WCE, if so how does it affect handling? What exactly do they do?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...orsion-Control

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

its actually more then that - i believe i had 20 .2 shims on each side..

the biggest thing to make it work is bearing - the bearing holders are fine, just get smaller inner diameter bearings...THAT's the ticket to make it all work

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

Hello everyone,

I now own a dead-stock (as far as I can tell) cyclone tc, and am hoping to get back into racing with it. However, I can tell I need to change some things around to get it to work with Lipo as well as a Brushless setup.

I just ordered an exotek chassis to solve the lipo problem, but under what circumstances do I need to use the BL motor mount? Some of the posts above state that the only difference is a slight change in height, so is it only required for certain gearing combinations?

Also, what parts commonly break/go wrong on the cyclone tc? I wouldn't mind trying to find some spares to have kicking around, since I know this is a bit of an aging chassis.

Lastly, any recommendations for motor/esc/batteries for the cyclone for racing 17.5 lipo? I have been away from r/c for a long long time, so my knowledge is a little antiquated when looking at today's technology. Thanks for any and all help!

Micro-E

iTrader: (4)

A Cyclone S has been my main car for the last 2 seasons and the only parts I have ever had to replace are front hubs and diff/spool cups. Based on the way I drive, the car is pretty darn durable.

Parts availability has been a bit of a challenge recently so I just buy two of everything when they become available. You just have to hit the online stores and check on what is in stock from time to time.

Someone else will have to comment on the brushless motor mount. i have the stock one and can make FDR for blinky no prob.

ShaunMac

You don't need the BL mount. You can get the correct gearing for Mod all the way down to Blinky 17.5 without it. Just have to switch between smaller spurs for spec and larger for mod.

For the TC I would have extra arms, steering blocks, c-hubs and rear hubs. Luckily, these parts are still used on the current TCX. If you want a-arms that will survive just about anything, pick up the standard Pro-4 arms. You lose a couple of extra shock tuning positions but gain lots of durability.

Reedy, Revtech, Thunder Power lipos are very good. Tekin RS, LRP SXX SS esc's are popular in the 17.5 classes. Especially boosted.

Reedy Sonic, Epic D3, SP MMM and LRP 17.5 motors are quite popular.

Hope I could help.

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

You would only need the BL motor mount if you run Mod

mike_d

iTrader: (84)

This is the first thing i would get. Even with the Extotek chassis getting lipos out is a pain in the butt. This upper deck makes changing out batteries so much easier.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Conversion-Set

For_the_win

iTrader: (9)

is there a place anywhere i can get the rtr of pro version still new?

goots

iTrader: (20)

I dont think its worth it for that amount. Also flex looks unequal on that upper deck. For lipos to fit you just need to dremel away 1.5- 2.0 mm under the middle bulkhead.

The HBX chassis is not bad. The flipped belt version allows to move your receiver and esc closer to the centerline. I also suggest running a lipo over 300grams to get it balanced.

The chassis has lots of flex. For prepped high bite track I had to run the 2.5mm upperdeck to compensate.

Just get a parma hard foam bumper. Never broke any front end parts since.

KELVIN KHNG

iTrader: (15)

Hi Guys..

Anybody know what is the difference between the Hot bodies Subaru body type A,B and C?