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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 11-16-2013, 02:20 PM
  #5521  
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc
What's the status on the Tekin Spec ESC? Is it still in testing?

wait for it......
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:39 AM
  #5522  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
wait for it......
I can hear a drumroll.

I'm waiting for that, "Ta Da!"
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:59 PM
  #5523  
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Whats the best battery for VTA and is C-rating important? Do you want higher C-rating or lower? Thx
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:54 PM
  #5524  
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
Whats the best battery for VTA and is C-rating important? Do you want higher C-rating or lower? Thx
Anything legal that fits, at a price you feel comfortable with, from a reliable vendor. Battery specs aren't really all that crucial. Pick a pack (almost any pack) and go have fun.

Depending what chassis you run, a heavier pack may make it easier to meet minimum weight, or help balance the car a bit.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
What vta body seems to be the best handling body to date? I am interested in the firebird because no one is running them at my track. I wanted something different. But I read somewhere that the wheels rub on front hood. Anyone else had same experience?
I think I have run every VTA body available except for the Parma bodies and Protoforms new Firebird. The McAllister Firebird has been the best body yet. Its one piece construction makes it very durable and after a hard crash if the front edge of the fender buckles in it just pops right back out.
No cracks yet!!!
Very happy with this body!!
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:56 PM
  #5526  
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Originally Posted by LasagnaCat
Anything legal that fits, at a price you feel comfortable with, from a reliable vendor. Battery specs aren't really all that crucial. Pick a pack (almost any pack) and go have fun.

Depending what chassis you run, a heavier pack may make it easier to meet minimum weight, or help balance the car a bit.
Thanks! Do they have to be Roar legal? I guess they should since everything else is.

Originally Posted by xray2050
I think I have run every VTA body available except for the Parma bodies and Protoforms new Firebird. The McAllister Firebird has been the best body yet. Its one piece construction makes it very durable and after a hard crash if the front edge of the fender buckles in it just pops right back out.
No cracks yet!!!
Very happy with this body!!
Going to be my next body!
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:49 AM
  #5527  
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
Do they have to be Roar legal? I guess they should since everything else is.
No. Rob lifted the ROAR requirement a while back to make it easier to find LiPo packs at or under 5000mAh. But if you want to use it in another class too, go with a ROAR pack.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:00 AM
  #5528  
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Originally Posted by LasagnaCat
Depending what chassis you run, a heavier pack may make it easier to meet minimum weight, or help balance the car a bit.
+1

We run just VTA here so I used the packs I already have from 4x4 sct, some 7200mah batts. When comparing them to what guys who were configured for pure USVTA They ran a whole bunch more chassis balancing weights than what I did. I think I only need to add about 70 grams or so to the car to make minimum weight with my batteries.

For me at least, if I went to USVTA legal batteries, I would get the heaviest 5000mah packs I could find.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:41 AM
  #5529  
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Originally Posted by xray2050
The McAllister Firebird has been the best body yet. Its one piece construction makes it very durable and after a hard crash if the front edge of the fender buckles in it just pops right back out.
No cracks yet!!!
Very happy with this body!!
+1

And I hit the wall a lot!
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:54 AM
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thats great news.

Where is the best place to order these bodies from online?

Also, if I recall correctly you want to get decals for these from someone else? If so, who do you all recommend for these bodies?

I got a funny feeling the challenger bodies we painted won't last very long ...
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:00 AM
  #5531  
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Originally Posted by Cain
thats great news.

Where is the best place to order these bodies from online?

..
http://racevta.com/product_info.php?...products_id=77
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:39 AM
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McAllister sells direct on Ebay, as does SWTour. If you do an Ebay search for 200mm Firebird, you'll find them both.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:17 AM
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If I am looking for more speed without changing FDR, what things should I do?
How much front/ rear toe?

Thanks
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by edhchoe
If I am looking for more speed without changing FDR, what things should I do?
How much front/ rear toe?

Thanks
A couple ideas to look into.......


Try running maximum motor timing
Make sure motor rotor is free and not over shimmed
Make your drivetrain ultra free running (no binding of hub or layshaft bearings)
Degrease all bearings for reduced rolling resistance
Lube your cvd/cva joints (rusty neglected cvd's are not fast)
If running on carpet watch/remove carpet fuzz from rotating parts/bearings
Proper gear mesh of pinion and spur gears (not overtly tight causing drag)
Loose belt tension for reduced drag (or shim diffs properly on shaft driven cars)
Run min rear toe in and min front toe in or out to reduce scrubbing of top speed. (I only run .5°-0° rear toe in on my VTA car for max top speed)
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:48 PM
  #5535  
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
Whats the best battery for VTA and is C-rating important? Do you want higher C-rating or lower? Thx
Take your pick of 5000 mah batteries - I've used OHP, Thunderpower, Reedy and CRC over the years - none of which gave me a clear-cut advantage over the other batteries available. This is TRULY one of those situations where you choose your favorite reputable manufacturer, buy one of their batteries, and go racing.
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