View Poll Results: what's your tire choice?
Protoform
46
30.67%
HPI
104
69.33%
Voters: 150. You may not vote on this poll
4318LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
04-29-2013, 08:05 AM
#4591
I need to correct indyhobbies...1550 grams for vta.
As far as using tape from a roll, you can often find clear tape on a roll at most hardware stores. Tape designed to keep cold out/in works well. Although the hockey stick tape sounds like a great idea. When I have sealed my chassis with roll tape, I will apply it and then heat up the tape with a blow dryer. This helps heat up the adhesive on the tape and helps create a better bond. I then smooth out the tape on the chassis.
Roll tape may not be as thick as the “rc specific” chassis tape, but it is cheap enough to re-apply should it lift off or tear. I should note that most of the tapes we use in our hobby are not designed for us. It may be possible to find the exact chassis protector directly from the source (such as 3m) for cheaper.
Another option is to buy chassis protectors from Team Associated. Here is a link on towerhobbies
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXV1 for $9.00 USD.
As far as using tape from a roll, you can often find clear tape on a roll at most hardware stores. Tape designed to keep cold out/in works well. Although the hockey stick tape sounds like a great idea. When I have sealed my chassis with roll tape, I will apply it and then heat up the tape with a blow dryer. This helps heat up the adhesive on the tape and helps create a better bond. I then smooth out the tape on the chassis.
Roll tape may not be as thick as the “rc specific” chassis tape, but it is cheap enough to re-apply should it lift off or tear. I should note that most of the tapes we use in our hobby are not designed for us. It may be possible to find the exact chassis protector directly from the source (such as 3m) for cheaper.
Another option is to buy chassis protectors from Team Associated. Here is a link on towerhobbies
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXV1 for $9.00 USD.
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 04-29-2013 at 09:44 AM.
04-29-2013, 09:46 AM
#4594
Jimmy
04-29-2013, 11:08 AM
#4595
Hey folks,
I plan on posting this in the Hobbywing thread, but since it's a VTA car, I'm hoping someone here may be able to shed some light on this issue.
The problem involved my Hobbywing Justock ESC. Basically, if I apply the brakes entering a corner, there is often times a delay before the car will accelerate again. The delay isn't terribly long, but it's long enough that it resulted in me getting rear-ended at the last race! (Not the other driver's fault, obviously) It's maybe a 1/2 second or possibly longer.
I'm curious if anyone else has run into a similar situation and how they addressed it. Maybe I have a setting screwed up? Here's the specs of my car/electronics that might be of some help:
- Futaba 4PL radio
- Novak 25.5T motor
- Savox 2157 servo
- 5000 mah battery (40c or 65c)
- Associated TC6 chassis
Thanks!
Tommy
I plan on posting this in the Hobbywing thread, but since it's a VTA car, I'm hoping someone here may be able to shed some light on this issue.
The problem involved my Hobbywing Justock ESC. Basically, if I apply the brakes entering a corner, there is often times a delay before the car will accelerate again. The delay isn't terribly long, but it's long enough that it resulted in me getting rear-ended at the last race! (Not the other driver's fault, obviously) It's maybe a 1/2 second or possibly longer.
I'm curious if anyone else has run into a similar situation and how they addressed it. Maybe I have a setting screwed up? Here's the specs of my car/electronics that might be of some help:
- Futaba 4PL radio
- Novak 25.5T motor
- Savox 2157 servo
- 5000 mah battery (40c or 65c)
- Associated TC6 chassis
Thanks!
Tommy
Upon entering a corner from high speed, I would quickly give a short blip of brake and was evidently going back to neutral just briefly. As I got deeper into the corner, I applied the brakes again to tuck a tight apex. But this second application of the brake was actually engaging reverse, according to the ESC. It wasn't enough to make the car move backwards, but it nonetheless registered as "reverse" to the ESC. Now when I went forward again (to exit the corner), there was a delay.
Eliminating reverse did the trick, but it's possible reducing my neutral range might've been sufficient. But I'd rather play is safe and just run w/o reverse now.
04-29-2013, 11:29 AM
#4596
Nothing special done with the sensor wire. The club spec ESC settings can be changed without any additional equipment, however I have the LCD card as it is much easier to make changes to brake settings, etc compared to walking through the ESC button press cycles / flashing lights to make changes to parameters.
Jimmy
Jimmy
04-29-2013, 11:29 AM
#4597
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
So I did some more testing and had another race yesterday that including a couple corners that required braking (beyond what the drag brake provides). I turned off reverse and the problem has gone away. Here's my thoughts on what was happening when I had reverse operational:
Upon entering a corner from high speed, I would quickly give a short blip of brake and was evidently going back to neutral just briefly. As I got deeper into the corner, I applied the brakes again to tuck a tight apex. But this second application of the brake was actually engaging reverse, according to the ESC. It wasn't enough to make the car move backwards, but it nonetheless registered as "reverse" to the ESC. Now when I went forward again (to exit the corner), there was a delay.
Eliminating reverse did the trick, but it's possible reducing my neutral range might've been sufficient. But I'd rather play is safe and just run w/o reverse now.
Upon entering a corner from high speed, I would quickly give a short blip of brake and was evidently going back to neutral just briefly. As I got deeper into the corner, I applied the brakes again to tuck a tight apex. But this second application of the brake was actually engaging reverse, according to the ESC. It wasn't enough to make the car move backwards, but it nonetheless registered as "reverse" to the ESC. Now when I went forward again (to exit the corner), there was a delay.
Eliminating reverse did the trick, but it's possible reducing my neutral range might've been sufficient. But I'd rather play is safe and just run w/o reverse now.
04-30-2013, 01:17 PM
#4599
04-30-2013, 05:20 PM
#4601
05-01-2013, 06:55 AM
#4602
Truly, I've not been cheating. And, I've been teched many times at events with my cars.
I think when I wrote that, I was either in a hurry, tired or both. Honest!
Cross my heart and hope to die, stick a needle in my eye...
I think when I wrote that, I was either in a hurry, tired or both. Honest!
Cross my heart and hope to die, stick a needle in my eye...
05-04-2013, 08:33 AM
#4603
Locally on our low/med grip asphalt tracks, we're all a bit surprised at how quickly our tires are wearing....primarily down the center. I assume this is because of the lack of internal belts? Just curious, but would the use of tire sauce help slow tire wear? I don't typically use it, but some others are and their tire wear seems to be a bit less.
05-04-2013, 08:41 AM
#4604
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Locally on our low/med grip asphalt tracks, we're all a bit surprised at how quickly our tires are wearing....primarily down the center. I assume this is because of the lack of internal belts? Just curious, but would the use of tire sauce help slow tire wear? I don't typically use it, but some others are and their tire wear seems to be a bit less.
