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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 04-29-2013, 08:05 AM
  #4591  
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I need to correct indyhobbies...1550 grams for vta.

As far as using tape from a roll, you can often find clear tape on a roll at most hardware stores. Tape designed to keep cold out/in works well. Although the hockey stick tape sounds like a great idea. When I have sealed my chassis with roll tape, I will apply it and then heat up the tape with a blow dryer. This helps heat up the adhesive on the tape and helps create a better bond. I then smooth out the tape on the chassis.

Roll tape may not be as thick as the “rc specific” chassis tape, but it is cheap enough to re-apply should it lift off or tear. I should note that most of the tapes we use in our hobby are not designed for us. It may be possible to find the exact chassis protector directly from the source (such as 3m) for cheaper.

Another option is to buy chassis protectors from Team Associated. Here is a link on towerhobbies
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXV1 for $9.00 USD.

Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 04-29-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bertottius View Post
Anybody using he Speedpassion Reventon Stock Club ESC in VTA?
I have been using one in USVTA since its introduction. No issues to date, and took 3rd overall at the recent Scale Nats @ Harbor Hobbies.

Jimmy
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by g12314 View Post
I have been using one in USVTA since its introduction. No issues to date, and took 3rd overall at the recent Scale Nats @ Harbor Hobbies.

Jimmy
Did you have to do anyting special to the sensor wire? Also, can you program it without any special equipment?
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bertottius View Post
Did you have to do anyting special to the sensor wire? Also, can you program it without any special equipment?
Nothing special done with the sensor wire. The club spec ESC settings can be changed without any additional equipment, however I have the LCD card as it is much easier to make changes to brake settings, etc compared to walking through the ESC button press cycles / flashing lights to make changes to parameters.

Jimmy
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Hey folks,

I plan on posting this in the Hobbywing thread, but since it's a VTA car, I'm hoping someone here may be able to shed some light on this issue.

The problem involved my Hobbywing Justock ESC. Basically, if I apply the brakes entering a corner, there is often times a delay before the car will accelerate again. The delay isn't terribly long, but it's long enough that it resulted in me getting rear-ended at the last race! (Not the other driver's fault, obviously) It's maybe a 1/2 second or possibly longer.

I'm curious if anyone else has run into a similar situation and how they addressed it. Maybe I have a setting screwed up? Here's the specs of my car/electronics that might be of some help:

- Futaba 4PL radio
- Novak 25.5T motor
- Savox 2157 servo
- 5000 mah battery (40c or 65c)
- Associated TC6 chassis

Thanks!
Tommy
So I did some more testing and had another race yesterday that including a couple corners that required braking (beyond what the drag brake provides). I turned off reverse and the problem has gone away. Here's my thoughts on what was happening when I had reverse operational:

Upon entering a corner from high speed, I would quickly give a short blip of brake and was evidently going back to neutral just briefly. As I got deeper into the corner, I applied the brakes again to tuck a tight apex. But this second application of the brake was actually engaging reverse, according to the ESC. It wasn't enough to make the car move backwards, but it nonetheless registered as "reverse" to the ESC. Now when I went forward again (to exit the corner), there was a delay.

Eliminating reverse did the trick, but it's possible reducing my neutral range might've been sufficient. But I'd rather play is safe and just run w/o reverse now.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by g12314 View Post
Nothing special done with the sensor wire. The club spec ESC settings can be changed without any additional equipment, however I have the LCD card as it is much easier to make changes to brake settings, etc compared to walking through the ESC button press cycles / flashing lights to make changes to parameters.

Jimmy
Ok great! Thanks man.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
So I did some more testing and had another race yesterday that including a couple corners that required braking (beyond what the drag brake provides). I turned off reverse and the problem has gone away. Here's my thoughts on what was happening when I had reverse operational:

Upon entering a corner from high speed, I would quickly give a short blip of brake and was evidently going back to neutral just briefly. As I got deeper into the corner, I applied the brakes again to tuck a tight apex. But this second application of the brake was actually engaging reverse, according to the ESC. It wasn't enough to make the car move backwards, but it nonetheless registered as "reverse" to the ESC. Now when I went forward again (to exit the corner), there was a delay.

Eliminating reverse did the trick, but it's possible reducing my neutral range might've been sufficient. But I'd rather play is safe and just run w/o reverse now.
I am curious what if the drag brake was increased.... Maybe that could help, especially when practicing without a marshal...
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Eliminating reverse did the trick, but it's possible reducing my neutral range might've been sufficient. But I'd rather play is safe and just run w/o reverse now.
Ha! Told you so!

Actually, I never told you jack.

FWIW, I don't have reverse enabled on any of my track-ready cars. Also, I haven't pulled the trigger on a Justock yet. Not sure I will...

...now that I'm saving pennies for an ebuggy.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
I need to correct indyhobbies...1550 grams for vta.
You mean I'm cheating on my weight and I STILL come in last?


Last edited by IndyHobbies.com; 04-30-2013 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:31 PM
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Contact paper works great and a roll lasts for a long-long time.It even came in clear or green around here. Got both.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
You mean I'm cheating on my weight and I STILL come in last?
lol, I have been running 100 grams OVERWEIGHT, and still winning, just to show the guys that want to cheat how little effect it has compared to Driving
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:55 AM
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Truly, I've not been cheating. And, I've been teched many times at events with my cars.

I think when I wrote that, I was either in a hurry, tired or both. Honest!

Cross my heart and hope to die, stick a needle in my eye...
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:33 AM
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Locally on our low/med grip asphalt tracks, we're all a bit surprised at how quickly our tires are wearing....primarily down the center. I assume this is because of the lack of internal belts? Just curious, but would the use of tire sauce help slow tire wear? I don't typically use it, but some others are and their tire wear seems to be a bit less.
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Locally on our low/med grip asphalt tracks, we're all a bit surprised at how quickly our tires are wearing....primarily down the center. I assume this is because of the lack of internal belts? Just curious, but would the use of tire sauce help slow tire wear? I don't typically use it, but some others are and their tire wear seems to be a bit less.
Traction compounds soften the rubber, so it may help in adding grip and you will not slide/wear the tires as bad. A lot of drivers will actually tweak their set-up by how much compound they use on each tire.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:14 AM
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Hello....anybody want to come play?
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