View Poll Results: what's your tire choice?
Protoform
46
30.67%
HPI
104
69.33%
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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
#4292
#4293
Someone here may know this, and prevent my mad scientist urge of experimenting on my own...
Is there a smaller capacitor that will work with the GTB2 other than the behemoth it comes with? Novak of course always recommends the stock cap, but I wouldn't be anywhere close to the esc rating running it with a 25.5 and that thing really is in the way mounting it in the car.
Is there a smaller capacitor that will work with the GTB2 other than the behemoth it comes with? Novak of course always recommends the stock cap, but I wouldn't be anywhere close to the esc rating running it with a 25.5 and that thing really is in the way mounting it in the car.
Disclaimer: Professional driver on closed course. Do not attempt.
#4294
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
Though I am nontheless curious of the reasoning behind the rule. Is it to promote realistic looking ride heights?
#4295
Someone here may know this, and prevent my mad scientist urge of experimenting on my own...
Is there a smaller capacitor that will work with the GTB2 other than the behemoth it comes with? Novak of course always recommends the stock cap, but I wouldn't be anywhere close to the esc rating running it with a 25.5 and that thing really is in the way mounting it in the car.
Is there a smaller capacitor that will work with the GTB2 other than the behemoth it comes with? Novak of course always recommends the stock cap, but I wouldn't be anywhere close to the esc rating running it with a 25.5 and that thing really is in the way mounting it in the car.
#4296
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I posted this because I was under the assumption that my front spoiler was much lower than my chassis' ride height of 5mm. Turns out it was at 5.5mm so no harm, no foul. That's what I get for assuming!
Though I am nontheless curious of the reasoning behind the rule. Is it to promote realistic looking ride heights?
Though I am nontheless curious of the reasoning behind the rule. Is it to promote realistic looking ride heights?
#4298
Anybody know how to change the bearing in the end cap of the 25.5 Novak Ballistic motor ? There's no way to get behind it to knock it out like the other end (shaft end).
#4301
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Some facilities use a bridge type loop a few feet above the racing surface. A bridge system is normally required for Infrared transponder systems. Other permanent outdoor tracks will install the loop in or under the racing surface. On these type of tracks, you don't have to worry about cutting the loop.
Another issue with ride height has been mentioned before. A chassis/body that is too close to the track surface has the potential to drag during racing. On bumpy on-road tracks if the chassis/body drags the track surface it can prevent the suspension from working properly. Depending on how poor the racing surface is, you may need to raise the ride height above 6mm to have a consistently handling car.
Some people do like to slam their bodies in VTA, and it can look a bit out of scale. However, there is limit to how low you can mount a body before the front tires start rubbing the hood (or bonnet for UK racers). When tires excessively rub the body, the result can be an inconsistent handling car. Thankfully on all of the VTA bodies I've run (almost all of them), if you mount the body with the cut line even with the chassis it will look/run great (with little to no tire rub).
One final thought on ride height. A few years ago at the USVTA Nats @ Harbor Hobbies, there was a banked corner on the driver's left end of the track. Cars set too low were having major problems with the transition between the flat track and the banked curve. It was necessary to run a higher than normal ride height at this race to be competitive. I saw some racers at 7mm chassis height to compensate for the banking. So a word of warning to everyone heading to the USVTA Nats in April: Eric Whiteside @ Harbor Hobbies likes to throw in a curveball to keep the racers on their toes.
#4304
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
I call the tool a snapmark, unsure of the real name but its a spring loaded " pen " looking tool that has a sharp tapered tip. When you push down on it it snaps and puts an indention in metal. We use them to mark centers for holes that we drill in electrical panels. I wish I knew the real name of it
#4305
I took a 1/16" drill bit and carefully drilled the alunimum, against the endcap, in the direction of the bearing. There is a small gap of space behind the bearing that you will partially open when the bit hits the edge of the bearing. Once there I took a snapmark tool and kept pushing it until it moved the bearing. Once the bearing moved I was able to take a small pick and pull it out.
I call the tool a snapmark, unsure of the real name but its a spring loaded " pen " looking tool that has a sharp tapered tip. When you push down on it it snaps and puts an indention in metal. We use them to mark centers for holes that we drill in electrical panels. I wish I knew the real name of it
I call the tool a snapmark, unsure of the real name but its a spring loaded " pen " looking tool that has a sharp tapered tip. When you push down on it it snaps and puts an indention in metal. We use them to mark centers for holes that we drill in electrical panels. I wish I knew the real name of it
It's called a "Automatic Center Punch"
Last edited by trytowin; 03-11-2013 at 03:41 PM. Reason: added info