The Captain

iTrader: (6)

Wrong thread

alloyslash

iTrader: (19)

I asked the question on the Speed Passion thread and got this;

"Check to see if that Novak motor has a temp sensor. If it does you will have to disable the 2nd wire from the left on the sensor cable. Speed Passion is looking into this issue and the possibility of a software update to resolve it. In the mean time, you can disable, cut, pull out, that 2nd wire and it will disable the temp readings and you'd be fine."

So does anyone know if the Novak 25.5s have a temp sensor?

WhiteLX

iTrader: (11)

Sorry, but I feel it is perfectly relevant in this thread. There are a lot of people using these Speedpassion ESCs in VTA as they are some of the few that are on the VTA approved list. If there is an issue with them and certain motors that are used in VTA this is the best thread for that information. It also good information for future VTA participants. If you feel this isn't the right thread for discussion of a VTA ESC, then you need to prune the thread of ALL other ESC related content as well.

slashdriver

iTrader: (84)

I believe all Novak motors have the temp sensor.

The Captain

iTrader: (6)

Oh, no, I made a post in the wrong thread and deleted it here and put "wrong thread"

GeekSpeed

Guys, quick question about tires and wheels for a 190mm tc.

I am looking at the HPI '70 Boss 302 body.
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/17546/

I can't figure out if I need 31mm tires in the back and 26mm in the front. I BELIEVE that is the case, but I am not sure. Also, if I run 26mm in front, what wheels do I use. I thought I would need 6mm offset, but it does not appear that 26mm 6mm offset wheels are available.

What wheel/tire package should I use?

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Hello GeekSpeed,

First of all don't worry about adding any offset to the front wheels. All of the HPI VTA bodies (including the Boss 302 Mustang) are designed to be used with 26mm wide 0mm offset front wheels and 31mm wide 6mm offset rear wheels.

The tires are very easy. For VTA racing you must use HPI #4793 Vintage Racing Tire 26mm D-Compound for the front pair and HPI #4797 Vintage Racing Tire 31mm D-Compound for the rear pair.

When it comes to VTA wheels (or rims) you have a variety of colors and styles to pick from. There are 14 styles of front rims and 14 rear rims.
VTA Front Wheels:

1. 3805 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 26mm White (0mm Offset)
2. 3806 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 26mm Black (0mm Offset)
3. 3807 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 26mm Shiny Chrome (0mm Offset)
4. 3808 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 26mm Matte Chrome (0mm Offset)
5. 3809 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 26mm Gunmetal (0mm Offset)
6. 3815 - Vintage 5 Spoke Wheel 26mm Matte Chrome (0mm Offset)
7. 3816 - Vintage 5 Spoke Wheel 26mm Black (0mm Offset)
8. 3817 - Vintage 5 Spoke Wheel 26mm Shiny Chrome (0mm Offset)
9. 3854 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 26mm Black (0mm Offset)
10. 3855 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 26mm White (0mm Offset)
11. 3856 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 26mm Gunmetal (0mm Offset)
12. 3857 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 26mm Shiny Chrome (0mm Offset)
13. 33472 - Vintage Wheel CC Type 26mm Shiny Chrome (0mm Offset)
14. 33474 - Vintage Wheel DTP Type 26mm Shiny Chrome (0mm Offset)

VTA Rear Wheels:

1. 3810 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 31mm White (6mm Offset)
2. 3811 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 31mm Black (6mm Offset)
3. 3812 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 31mm Shiny Chrome (6mm Offset)
4. 3813 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 31mm Matte Chrome (6mm Offset)
5. 3814 - Vintage 8 Spoke Wheel 31mm Gunmetal (6mm Offset)
6. 3820 - Vintage 5 Spoke Wheel 31mm Matte Chrome (6mm Offset)
7. 3821 - Vintage 5 Spoke Wheel 31mm Black (6mm Offset)
8. 3822 - Vintage 5 Spoke Wheel 31mm Shiny Chrome (6mm Offset)
9. 3858 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 31mm Black (6mm Offset)
10. 3859 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 31mm White(6mm Offset)
11. 3860 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 31mm Gunmetal (6mm Offset)
12. 3861 - Vintage Stock Car Wheel 31mm Shiny Chrome (6mm Offset)
13. 33473 - Vintage Wheel CC Type 31mm Shiny Chrome (6mm Offset)
14. 33475 - Vintage Wheel DTP Type 31mm Shiny Chrome (6mm Offset)

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

There is no break-in period for a brushless motor. No brushes, no brush hassle. Just make sure you start with a short gear ratio so you don't overheat it on the first run.

rtebbe

iTrader: (3)

So I got my 60T 48P spur gear and I am trying to run about a 37T pinion, but the motor temps seem high (over 160). The Novak Ballistic 25.5 manual states nothing over 160. So I obviously need to get the temps down. I just bought an Integy heat sink with cooling fan hoping this will help. Any insight on the heat sink and cooling fan? Any other ideas to keep motor temps down? I feel like I need more speed, other racers seem so much faster in the straights.

mikel33

iTrader: (2)

May I ask what is your FDR?

rtebbe

iTrader: (3)

With 60/37, the FDR comes out to 4.05. If I jump to 39 pinion, it drops to 3.85.

alloyslash

iTrader: (19)

First I would keep the heatsink and ditch the Integy fan, they are weak. Look into getting a better fan like Side Piece's Seis or a Yeah Racing Tornado fan. Much better cooling capacity. If you don't like mail order at least get a Muchmore Ultra High RPM fan.

http://www.sidepieceracing.com/products/seis/

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...p?s_cate_id=05

Have you tried to free up the drivetrain? Check all your bearings, check for any bind issues. Just a little binding will heat a motor. If you have any drag break dialed in the ESC take it out, that builds heat too.

mikel33

iTrader: (2)

Well, the heatsink and/or fan will help with your temps. At my track we tend to gear more in the 3.5 - 3.8 range with a lot of motor timing. I use a fan only and shoe-gooed it to the chassis plate an inch behind the motor. Seems to work ok. Not that it should make a difference, but I use 64p gears and am currently alternating between 3.56 & 3.64 FDR on our current layout.

That being said, with a 4.05 FDR I wouldn't think you would be having over heating issues. Without knowing your relative skill level (so please don't take this the wrong way) - have you checked the simple things like gear mesh being too tight, are the belts too tight, is there something binding in the drive train or axles? If the drive train isn't nice and free you will overtax the motor and build up heat. It can be stuff like a seized up wheel bearing or even tires rubbing on the body too much.

Lastly, that ole trigger finger has an effect on motor temps as well. Smooth is better. Some of your speed on the straight might also be a result of how much speed you are carrying onto the straight from the infield and how you are getting on the power. Again, not knowing your skill level please don't thrash me if that is old hat to you.

Drag break, like anything else is a tuning aid. And like all tuning aids it does have an effect on something else. In this case, too much can build up heat. I usually run just enough to take the edge off. Maybe 10-15% of max.

Hope that helps.

michael.

PirateRN

iTrader: (6)

Hi all! I have only been racing VTA for a couple of months and have a question. I have been reading advice about gluing the sidewalls. Do you just put a bead where the tire meets the wheel or the entire sidewall? My driving is getting better and I'm hoping to travel outside of CA for a few races this year. Lots of helpful information on here.

slashdriver

iTrader: (84)

I think the glue on the sidewall thing may be a carpet only trick...