SAL45

Does anybody have pics of how they mounted their drivers? I have the DT-1 drivers and was trying to figure out how to mount it. Any help w/pics would be great!

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

Yea, my bone stock HPI Sprint 2 says it can kick your TC4's butt

thrasher05

iTrader: (19)

how true this is 90 percent of the peolple that claim to be out horsepowered on here either beats the walls down or the car wont turn in a 40 acre field or the car just isnt free its all bound up just my 2cents

Marv

iTrader: (2)

+100

Geno-Machino

Nevermind, had a battery test question but think I have my answer.
EA you have a PM.

alloyslash

iTrader: (19)

I put a dab of ShoeGoo on the top of each helmet, and on the small flange on the figure ( in front of the dashboard ). 1st stick the dash part on the body, lining it up with the cowl/windshield edge. Then simply push the driver/navigator's heads against the roof of the body, let sit upside down for 24hrs, and you have a permanently mounted driver. I have done all of mine like this and have never had one come loose, last one surviving 12+ races.

jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

So what's everyone's opinion of the Ballistic 540 Tuning Rotor- 12.3mm (SmCo)#5954 versus the Ballistic 540 Sintered Rotor - 12.3mm (Neo) #5941?

Has anyone tested both and if so what was the difference?

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Whenever I paint a new body I keep a bit of the trimmings, they work great for mounting the driver figures. You can position them right in the proper location.

I like to mount mine to the chassis rather than the body. That way I don't have to remount it when I switch up bodies. I also might help keep the weight a bit lower in the car but not sure on that one.

What I do is take and make some 90 degree bends in the lexan and double side tape the brackets to the chassis. I then put another bend in the top and use the servo tape to mount the driver to the bracket.

2 brackets work well but three is more solid. I will see if I can't snap a pic tonight as i am not explaining it too well.

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Here's a pic of my VTA driver. He is mounted by using 3 pieces of antenna tube to make something like a 3-legged table.
.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Have you read the rules?

From page 1 (The rules post)

...12.3 mm rotor diameter only (no "tuning" rotors are allowed, only stock Novak rotors allowed)...

The stock rotor is part number 5941. It is the replacement part and the only one allowed under the rules.

DontChangeUSVTA

+100
It's clear as day. Under the USVTA Motor Specifications, 5th line down reads "no tuning rotors are allowed, only stock Novak rotors allowed."
.

rcsuicide

I have tried Novak's SmCo tuning rotor in my World GT 13.5T Ballistic motor. Honestly there is absolutely no difference in the speed or torque of the motor.
Last October Novak published an article called "Samarium Cobalt (SmCo) vs Neodymium (Neo)" on their web page. It explains the differences between the two rotors very well.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

cool...

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Hey rcsuicide, there is nothing in the USVTA rules that makes your Cuda body illegal to race in VTA. Some people may frown upon the hole in your windshield and back window, but they can't tell you it's illegal. I raced one of those bodies on my VTA last year and some racers gave me flak about the holes in the windows. Here's a pic of my factory painted Cuda body ...

bronicabill

Don't worry, I'm not the "new guy" coming in here wanting to nit-pick over rules. I really couldn't care less about ceramic bearings, and wouldn't bother installing them anyway unless my motor was in need of an overhaul... then I might need to know if they were legal or not. Other than that scenario, I'm not the type to run out and upgrade to try to get some competitive advantage. Heck, right now I'm just trying to keep my car off the boards and on all 4 tires long enough to complete a full heat!