gpm-parts.com

I had the same problem. But it is on a high grip asphalt track. After trying lot of different things I change the camber from f/r 1.5 to f/r 1 and problem solved. As the car have too much both front and rear grip the tires simply can't take it. Give it a try and see would it help.

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

You can try increasing rear oil. Maybe 37.5 or even 40 I run 550fr and 500r I also might try changing camber some. Maybe try 1 3/4 fr and 2 1/4 r.

Stock shimming is ok. I've since changed mine to 3.5 mm to gain more high speed steering..

Reese Bobby

Hi Seth,

Some more ideas worth trying, i think.
Rear:
Camber: -2
Rollbar: Green.
Spring: Green.
1mm shim under FR block.
No shim under RR block.
Droop 4

Front:
Camber: -1
Droop 2
1.5mm shim under FF block.
1.5mm shim under FR block.

If its loose as soon as you are getting on power, possibly turn down the curve on your TX?
Really hope you manage to resolve the problem, please keep us posted.

3D-Seth

iTrader: (36)

Thanks guys, I'll give those ideas a try tonight.

On another note, do you think I could have too much steering/ackermann? I'm thinking that maybe the tire turns too far in and acts like a pivot, grabs and the rear end comes around? I realize that majority of the work is on the outside tire, but just trying to think of something else. Seems to only do it at 3/4 steering or more. Car handles really well otherwise.

Thanks!
Seth

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

You posted you are running the hole farthest back on the steering block correct? If you are you can change the inner shimming at the steering rack to 3.5mm and that will give you 5 1/2-6* ackermann difference. Also when you set up your steering throw on your setup gauges make it so the outside wheel has 16* of throw both ways. This ackermann setup has worked the best for me so far. Good balance of low and high speed steering.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

whatever he' says...you better do!. it will work

he is Mr VBC
Goat sleeps with his Wildfire and his wrenches. prob the best RC setup guy out there.

rizal_eg9

iTrader: (3)

Hi guys,

I have a question....how do i get the shock to have rebound after shock cap drilled with 1 mm bit???i have tried to tighten the shock cap with the shock shaft at full length (to retain maximum oil volume) but it seems to be stuck at 0 rebound....

i'm ok with 0 rebound as at now...but just in case if i need to have some rebound....how do i do it???

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Only why to get rebound after the caps are drilled is to put on new undrilled caps.

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Thx lando. I'm sure there are better setup guys then me out there though.

poop

iTrader: (27)

would shock cap foam or an o-ring work? i recall seeing a Hara setup sheet ages ago using double orings to get max rebound

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

You can do it that way. I never liked the feel of them that way though. I almost always run my TC shocks dead with no hole in the cap.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I need some setup help guys. I have struggled with a lack of rear grip (or just too much steering) the first 2 races. It has gotten better and better but I still don't think its is where it should be. The car seems to be rolling too much as well as the chassis is dragging pretty bad through the sweepers as there is a lot of markings on the chassis. Not scratches but looks more like traction compound build up from dragging? Anyways, just curious if I'm thinking the correct way, I want to run thicker rear oil which will slow the body roll down correct? Still trying to wrap my head around all the different aspects of setup.

Current setup is:
front
top of shock is 3rd hole in from the outside
bottom is all the way out
white springs
40wt asc oil
3 hole pistons
5.5mm ride height
1mm shims under toe blocks
0 toe
-1.25 camber
1mm front 3mm rear for wheelbase shims
white sway bar
front camber link is 3rd hole out
2mm shim under the inside ballstud

rear
all the way in on top
all the way out on bottom
green springs
30wt asc oil
3hole pistons
5mm ride height
0 shims under toe blocks
3.0 toe
-2.5 camber
3mm front 1mm rear wheelbase shims
green sway bar
1st hole inside and inside hole on the hub
1mm shim outside 2mm shim inside

droop is 2mm ORH all around

First two races I had to run sweep 32 front and 28 rear. Now I'm on 32's all around and saucing 2/3 to 3/4 front.

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

Make sure what you think is happening really is before you start changing setup. Raise the rear ride height to 5.5mm adjust camber, droop, clean the chassis and try.

Reese Bobby

Hi All,

I have a two part setup question, I was wondering what the effect would be of changing the position of the rear link in the hub carrier from the outside position (kit setup) to the inner position. Then, also what effect would changing the inner rear camber link to a position closer to the chassis centerline?

There are some new Wildfire parts on the REDRC site, maybe you might have missed them, unfortunately I cant post links yet.

Thanks very much.

Lutz

Hi guys, I want to order a wildfire because I want to switch from top.
What spare parts and option parts would you recommend? And does anybody know if there are parts I can carry over from the photon ex to the wildfire? I mean parts I could use when I break something that I don't have as spare part by vbc but maybe from top. I have tons of top parts left over^^
Thanks for your help
Regards
Chris