VBC new 1/10 touring car, Wildfire.
#303
#304
One little tip that might help...
Since I've been racing a lot of 8th scale and those diffs love to leak too, I tend to use different silicone sealants on gear diffs. I've been using Yamabond #5. It dries as a rubber type seal in addition to the paper seal and no leaks what so ever.
It's also easy to remove when you open the diff up as it's not permanent.
I tightened mine in a star pattern and didn't put any Yamabond on it so I'll find out tomorrow if it's going to leak. They usually seep a little, no matter what brand, then it stops once the overfill is gone.
#305
Tech Legend
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
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Does anyone have the stock spring weights in a pound rating? Are they 16lb, 10lb etc. Looking to try some other springs other than the White and Reds in the kit but was looking for a standard lb rating as to compare to like Associated weights.
#306
VBC Green = 2.8kgf/mm = ~15.5lb
VBC Red = 3.0kgf/mm = ~16.3lb
VBC Orange = 3.1kgf/mm = ~17.3lb
VBC White = 3.3kgf/mm = ~18.3lb
There can be some differences depending on if the springs are linear or progressive and the number of coils. These are just ball park numbers considering the conversion tool I used. They can be off give or take .5 lb.
#307
#308
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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Brian, if I have my calculations right...
VBC Green = 2.8kgf/mm = ~15.5lb
VBC Red = 3.0kgf/mm = ~16.3lb
VBC Orange = 3.1kgf/mm = ~17.3lb
VBC White = 3.3kgf/mm = ~18.3lb
There can be some differences depending on if the springs are linear or progressive and the number of coils. These are just ball park numbers considering the conversion tool I used. They can be off give or take .5 lb.
VBC Green = 2.8kgf/mm = ~15.5lb
VBC Red = 3.0kgf/mm = ~16.3lb
VBC Orange = 3.1kgf/mm = ~17.3lb
VBC White = 3.3kgf/mm = ~18.3lb
There can be some differences depending on if the springs are linear or progressive and the number of coils. These are just ball park numbers considering the conversion tool I used. They can be off give or take .5 lb.
#309
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
big smile dudes!
it's on a little small brown truck somewhere midwest.
watch out guys...the infamous Schreff is back on rubber slicks...
we will have a plethora of information on this thread.
----I always wanted to use the word!! (plethora)
RU....you know you need something different...it's time for a little gun metal goodness.
#311
Well guys, my first official race day on the Wildfire is in the books and I couldn't be happier with how things went.
When I built the car, I basically did most of the kit setup with some of my own very minor changes. I used Losi 40wt oil in the shocks, had about 50% rebound, and did not drill the caps. I will do that next time to try it further. I also ran the car with the bars disconnected as our asphalt track is very tight with a lot of low speed corners. It's basically an asphalt carpet track if you can imagine such a thing. The rest of the setup, including springs, pistons, arm spacing, roll centers, and camber link positions were all kit setup. I also did not run ECS style front shafts as I have none right now.
First time on the track, it took me a little to get back into the swing of things with not running a touring car for close to 5 months. The first 2 hot laps, I nailed a chicane at full speed (bonehead move) and sent the car flying. I basically ruined the body in a matter of 5 minutes. The best part, not 1 broken part! This car can take some crazy hits. Heck, in one qualifier, I hit another car that was spun on the straight and ripped the entire rear suspension off the other car. My car just had the body all punched in and I pulled it off thinking mine was broke too. Instead, just a screw pulled out of a rear body post, which was my fault for not putting a long enough one in anyway.
After I was done driving like a moron and wrecking the car, I got into the swing of driving again and WOW is this car lethal. It's smooth, carries high speed corners awesome, and transitions very quickly in low speed corners. It's also very easy on tires and very consistent through a run. I changed very minor items throughout the day (mainly camber and rear camber link position) and each change was subtle enough to make the car a little quicker, but not sacrifice drive-ability. The guys at my local track definitely saw how good the car was with "out of the box" stuff and that's a huge selling point.
The next time I hit the track will be on carpet and I'm really looking forward to it. I'll definitely learn some good stuff there and post info for folks running on carpet. VBC and CRC have a winner here and it's going to be an awesome winter season. It may even make me stop running offroad for a while and get me to hit some big TC races.
When I built the car, I basically did most of the kit setup with some of my own very minor changes. I used Losi 40wt oil in the shocks, had about 50% rebound, and did not drill the caps. I will do that next time to try it further. I also ran the car with the bars disconnected as our asphalt track is very tight with a lot of low speed corners. It's basically an asphalt carpet track if you can imagine such a thing. The rest of the setup, including springs, pistons, arm spacing, roll centers, and camber link positions were all kit setup. I also did not run ECS style front shafts as I have none right now.
First time on the track, it took me a little to get back into the swing of things with not running a touring car for close to 5 months. The first 2 hot laps, I nailed a chicane at full speed (bonehead move) and sent the car flying. I basically ruined the body in a matter of 5 minutes. The best part, not 1 broken part! This car can take some crazy hits. Heck, in one qualifier, I hit another car that was spun on the straight and ripped the entire rear suspension off the other car. My car just had the body all punched in and I pulled it off thinking mine was broke too. Instead, just a screw pulled out of a rear body post, which was my fault for not putting a long enough one in anyway.
After I was done driving like a moron and wrecking the car, I got into the swing of driving again and WOW is this car lethal. It's smooth, carries high speed corners awesome, and transitions very quickly in low speed corners. It's also very easy on tires and very consistent through a run. I changed very minor items throughout the day (mainly camber and rear camber link position) and each change was subtle enough to make the car a little quicker, but not sacrifice drive-ability. The guys at my local track definitely saw how good the car was with "out of the box" stuff and that's a huge selling point.
The next time I hit the track will be on carpet and I'm really looking forward to it. I'll definitely learn some good stuff there and post info for folks running on carpet. VBC and CRC have a winner here and it's going to be an awesome winter season. It may even make me stop running offroad for a while and get me to hit some big TC races.
#312
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Well guys, my first official race day on the Wildfire is in the books and I couldn't be happier with how things went.
When I built the car, I basically did most of the kit setup with some of my own very minor changes. I used Losi 40wt oil in the shocks, had about 50% rebound, and did not drill the caps. I will do that next time to try it further. I also ran the car with the bars disconnected as our asphalt track is very tight with a lot of low speed corners. It's basically an asphalt carpet track if you can imagine such a thing. The rest of the setup, including springs, pistons, arm spacing, roll centers, and camber link positions were all kit setup. I also did not run ECS style front shafts as I have none right now.
First time on the track, it took me a little to get back into the swing of things with not running a touring car for close to 5 months. The first 2 hot laps, I nailed a chicane at full speed (bonehead move) and sent the car flying. I basically ruined the body in a matter of 5 minutes. The best part, not 1 broken part! This car can take some crazy hits. Heck, in one qualifier, I hit another car that was spun on the straight and ripped the entire rear suspension off the other car. My car just had the body all punched in and I pulled it off thinking mine was broke too. Instead, just a screw pulled out of a rear body post, which was my fault for not putting a long enough one in anyway.
After I was done driving like a moron and wrecking the car, I got into the swing of driving again and WOW is this car lethal. It's smooth, carries high speed corners awesome, and transitions very quickly in low speed corners. It's also very easy on tires and very consistent through a run. I changed very minor items throughout the day (mainly camber and rear camber link position) and each change was subtle enough to make the car a little quicker, but not sacrifice drive-ability. The guys at my local track definitely saw how good the car was with "out of the box" stuff and that's a huge selling point.
The next time I hit the track will be on carpet and I'm really looking forward to it. I'll definitely learn some good stuff there and post info for folks running on carpet. VBC and CRC have a winner here and it's going to be an awesome winter season. It may even make me stop running offroad for a while and get me to hit some big TC races.
When I built the car, I basically did most of the kit setup with some of my own very minor changes. I used Losi 40wt oil in the shocks, had about 50% rebound, and did not drill the caps. I will do that next time to try it further. I also ran the car with the bars disconnected as our asphalt track is very tight with a lot of low speed corners. It's basically an asphalt carpet track if you can imagine such a thing. The rest of the setup, including springs, pistons, arm spacing, roll centers, and camber link positions were all kit setup. I also did not run ECS style front shafts as I have none right now.
First time on the track, it took me a little to get back into the swing of things with not running a touring car for close to 5 months. The first 2 hot laps, I nailed a chicane at full speed (bonehead move) and sent the car flying. I basically ruined the body in a matter of 5 minutes. The best part, not 1 broken part! This car can take some crazy hits. Heck, in one qualifier, I hit another car that was spun on the straight and ripped the entire rear suspension off the other car. My car just had the body all punched in and I pulled it off thinking mine was broke too. Instead, just a screw pulled out of a rear body post, which was my fault for not putting a long enough one in anyway.
After I was done driving like a moron and wrecking the car, I got into the swing of driving again and WOW is this car lethal. It's smooth, carries high speed corners awesome, and transitions very quickly in low speed corners. It's also very easy on tires and very consistent through a run. I changed very minor items throughout the day (mainly camber and rear camber link position) and each change was subtle enough to make the car a little quicker, but not sacrifice drive-ability. The guys at my local track definitely saw how good the car was with "out of the box" stuff and that's a huge selling point.
The next time I hit the track will be on carpet and I'm really looking forward to it. I'll definitely learn some good stuff there and post info for folks running on carpet. VBC and CRC have a winner here and it's going to be an awesome winter season. It may even make me stop running offroad for a while and get me to hit some big TC races.
#313
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
Just finished building the car, everything seems to be very good except the spur and pinion setup. I fitted a Kimbrough spur which clears fine but I realized while fitting the motor that it's going to be a bitch to tighten one of the motor screws but that's not that big of a deal. The main problem is that I am using the Epic Trinity pinions and they rub on the top deck (both sides), should I start using PRS or any other narrow pinions or just sand the inside of the top deck so the Epic pinions fit?
#314
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
Wow
I saw, held and I witnessed what this car has.
Must say I've never seen a car come alive so quick, it's an eye opener to see Screff take the car with confidence.....once he saw the car was durable he started to push it.
Car took turns like it had wings......this is my next ride period. The quality is shown throughout the car.
Way to go VBC
Must say I've never seen a car come alive so quick, it's an eye opener to see Screff take the car with confidence.....once he saw the car was durable he started to push it.
Car took turns like it had wings......this is my next ride period. The quality is shown throughout the car.
Way to go VBC
Last edited by olhipster1; 08-11-2012 at 06:38 PM.
#315
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Just finished building the car, everything seems to be very good except the spur and pinion setup. I fitted a Kimbrough spur which clears fine but I realized while fitting the motor that it's going to be a bitch to tighten one of the motor screws but that's not that big of a deal. The main problem is that I am using the Epic Trinity pinions and they rub on the top deck (both sides), should I start using PRS or any other narrow pinions or just sand the inside of the top deck so the Epic pinions fit?