Cole Trickle

With the center one-way, you wont gain any on-power steering And you loose brakes anyway, so I would go with the one-way diff from the beginning

About on-throttle, I dont know if you have catched the point, but you'll gain a lot of steering if you are OFF-throttle entering corners.

So, in short: Early on-power out of turns, and off-throttle when entering corners.

How's your car now? Is it stable? Personally, I found it was a great advantage to set the Ackerman for a more defensive style, that is, I took some of the aggresiveness out of the steering using the Ackerman. dont know if your car have this option, though...

Cain

iTrader: (294)

My car right now drives great. Almost point and shoot right now. Basically I have to left off the throttle into the turns and then go back on about mid turn but its pretty fast around the track.

Giving more thought, the center oneway may help more so with how I drive now so I can get more off-power steering around those turns as well as being pulled around them quicker?

Probably just need to try it and see

Thanks for your help guys. I love running this sedan, drivetrain is ULTRA smooth.

imjonah

[Running stock 1/10 TC Elect (XXX-S) on large asphalt track]
1. On the back twisty part of the track [typically hairpins seperated by short straights] I should be able to negotiate the hairpins at a much higher speed?
2. Since most track layouts have a very gradual sweeper at the end of the straight away, which you can take at almost full throttle, I only use brakes just before that long fast turn ends and the first sharp turn occurs. Throughout the twisty part of the track I (an most of the stock class drivers I ask) do not use brake.

3. When people discuss "brake" do they consider the natural drag of the motor which occurs if you reduce the throttle part way, bbraking. or are they only talking about actually moving the trigger forward to engage the braking function?

4. Is their agreement that setting the transmitter so that neutral trigger causes a bit of forward movement helps make one way easier to drive; if so does this reduce some of its advantages.

5. Is there agreement that it will cause front out drives,suspension and CVDs to break more often?

6. Is there agreement that one ways are in general harder to drive or is it they are harder to drive mainly for people who are use to running diffs and whose skills and co-ordination is based on running diffs?

Cole Trickle

1) Chances are great so. But it's required that you change your driving style, and that there's enough traction to begin with. I've been told, that some cars are better suited for one-ways, but I have yet to experience that myself. Finally, some people hate one-ways, it dont suit their driving style.

2) Such a sweeper can probably be taken at full throttle, since you have more on-power traction, with a one-way diff. Maybe you need to loosen throttle a little, but probably not brake.

Personally, I only use the brakes, to avoiding sudden crashes right in front of me. But that's very rare.

3) Probably we're not clear about this. Regular braking, I dont use it. And even the drag brake at neutral, I use it only a little.

The 3 "is there an agreement", is a little hard to anserv. I mainly speak for myself, and to some extension, what I've read in the forums. Here goes:

4) Yes and no. It's only an advantage, except you have to brake, when you want to hold the car at the strating grid etc. If you ESC have adjustable drag brake, it's an advantage to set it to zero.

5) Partly. I've experienced that plastic and alu bones arent useable. Plastic even dont last one battery for me. Alu bent, but last longer. After I've changed to steel CVD's, I havent had problems with this. But I believe it depends on the car, I'm racing a solid as a tank HPI Pro2, with hard steel out drives

6) I believe it's more about different peoples driving style and ability to adapt it to a new setup. Some people never learn it, and others say: Why didnt I do that much earlier. Most people are somewhere in between. If you choose to try it, be prepared on spending some time learning it. Also be prepared on giving up, and save that one-way in your pit box for another track.

Personally, I love it. It have cost me a lot of work with the setup, the problem was that I hadnt set the car right before mounting it. Last time I mounted my one-way diff, I cut 0,2-0,3 sec of my lap times, just like that. The one-way diff is in my car, to stay

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

1. Yes
2. Don't even brake, just try to release throttle at the right timing before the turn to slow down sufficiently to apex it
3. If you ask me, with a one-way installed, braking would 95% of the time mean slowing down with the drag of the motor.
4. I don't do this, just try to be more smooth on the throttle trigger. Of course this is much easier said than done, but practice makes perfect. Again, maybe some motors/drivetrains have such incredible drag that a bit of coasting is needed, but I've never needed any.
5. Yes, usually the drive pin of the CVD will wear from excessive contact with the outdrive cups of the one-way. In crash, a one-way will also cause much more severe damage to the whole car.
6. At the beginning it's much harder to drive a one-way car becos it requires the reflex NOT TO brake, which is not what we do when driving normal 1:1 cars. When you get the hang of just releasing forward throttle rather than pulling the brakes, and manage to time the slowing down, it's not very difficult.

I wouldn't call myself an expert or hot shot, but i can manage with a one-way, I'm much faster with it. All it takes is some adjusting and a higher awareness level.

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

Amen,
Oneways rock but take work to get use to them, Most people who hate them don;t set up there cars right to use a one way. I did say most not all, NO FLAMES just my observation.
Hope this helps,
Stephen <><

Cole Trickle

:Flame shields on

I tend to say, you're right about this.