speedybill

iTrader: (73)

for body posts try "HPI 6507"

Thankx,Bill

Kensei

You have a PM.

Lizardboy76

What stabilizer can I use the RDX, Also is there a Titanium screw set avail.

spacendeman

You realy mean the rdx? there is also a phi'09 threat here at the rctech forum.
For the hmx is the system different. allthough I think the stabelizers are the same. but an other system.

weekendracer_uk

Anyone used the HMX outdoors on tarmac yet and if so how did it compare to the Phi 09 ?

spacendeman

I haven't used it even on carpet .. so I can't tell you something about the car.
Do you maybe have some suggestions for running on carpet? high grip carpet and smal track. I have tamiya white springs...

vwvrt

Got my hmx finished today , I will be running it at my local club night tommorow and then at rugracers all day sunday.really pleased with it the body mounts take a bit of getting used to ,but its a very well made car the plastics feel very strong alloy parts are well machined , it feels like it has a lot of flex. I had a quick test run on tuesday before i had fully set it up and it felt nice to drive loads of grip.

Kensei

- what partnumber is the 4 degree alu caster block?
- what partnumber is the 189 mm rear belt?
- what partnumber is the 37t front pulley?
- so the DTR changes? In to what value?
- drill the hole a bit? That means one or both holes of the outdrives of the geardiff?
- what do you actualy have to trim on the rear geardiff side?
- cut off 3mm. So that is on both the outdrives of the geardiff? So 6mm in total?

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

If you look at Brad's pics, you can see some of the sway bar and steering mods better. http://www.rctech.net/forum/10082854-post153.html

Those C-Hubs are from the Assasin, Try number's 79284 and 79285 and the steering blocks are Phi 09's

vwvrt

I ran the hmx tonight , it was very good, im faster with this than with my 417. the hmx is very consistant and easy to drive , pleased i did the swap.

Kensei

C-Hubs number's 79284 and 79285 4 degrees caster, aluminium?

And the steering blocks are Phi 09's?
Are these aluminium?
What part numbers?
I see several: 79278, 79278A, 79279A, 79279, 79631/79632.
Which ones to use and for what reason?

Any other modifications I should consider?

For instance longer balljoints for the shocks.
I heard some complaints about not being able to set the droop as wanted. Shock too short. Longer Corally balljoints available? If so, what partnumber?

I want 2.5 degree toe-in at the rear, not 3 degree. How do I do that?

Do these fit for HMX or just for 1/12th. In other words, are these long enough?
#75995 12SL / X - 10SL / X - F1 WC Bodyposts -
Including body pivots and clips (4 pcs) - OPTION

Or go for these like speedybill suggested: for body posts try "HPI 6507"

@BJohnson: which bodyposts do you use?

speedybill

iTrader: (73)

I am a Total Corally freak
Been running the older RDX for over 6yrs
Just went to a Losi Type "R"

Been waiting on the release of the "HMX"

But I am rather disappointed of all the 'upgrades' needed to be competitive
are these upgrades absoutely needed
or could ya run it as it is?

Thankx, Bill

Kensei

VERY GOOD QUESTION........

I hope to get away with the following modifications:
- Corally geardiff (still to come..... when???) and oil to go with it
- swaybars. Not in the kit. IMO a bad thing!
- other bodyposts (always hated the "screwing" leaving me with pain in my fingertips)
- softer spring in the back (I have the Corally springset from my days with the RDX so no extra out of pocket expense there)
- less rear toe in. I prefer 2.5 degrees

Other needed setup changes and fine tuning must be doable within the standard kit parameters.

spacendeman

You can always adjust the rear toe in with the same suspensionblock you use at your rdx.
The car comes with 2,5 toe in rear.
Geardiff don't know when it comes... but do you realy need it in the stock class?
Other bodyposts.. That is a thing for you. That's what you prefer. I always use the corally posts. also on my 10SL.
If you realy need al the hopups that is a thing that I don't know because U haven't driven the car yet.
What about the springs I can't awnser that because I haven't driven. Some people say that it is good out of the box. See early posts here at this topic.

Kensei

- as to rear toe in: in the manual on page 7 it says 3 degrees toe in. On page 8 of the manual you can see that 2 degree en 0.5 degree wishbone mounts are used. So obviously I thought that that would be 2.5 degrees toe in. I asked Joeri Bal from Corally Holland in Dordrecht and he said it was 3 degrees. I stilll don't understand, but hey who the heck am I...?

- as to geardiff. For me it is more of a user friendly kind of thing. Never been a fan of balldiffs

- as to springs. As I know it almost everybody, who races on tarmac/asphalt, uses a slightly softer spring in the back. I did so with my RDX and I am going to do so with the HMX

- swaybars: I always used them. You can go softer in shockoil and springs without losing too much corner speed

- as to bodyposts: Corally has the ones I am looking for. They use them on there 1/12th car. So I don't know if they are long enough for TC. Corally Holland is going to inform me on that. If they are too short I may be can use HPI. Would like to know which ones BJohnson is using

So as to hop ups. It doesn't have to be that kind of a drama.
As said, I try to limit it to the geardiff and oil that goes with it, other bodyposts, softer springs in the rear and sway bars.

At first I will try a setup that is in the neighbourhood of what I used with the RDX. From there I can fine tune.