4LikesCorally HMX
11-23-2022, 11:41 AM
#466
Tech Initiate
The shock towers come from the BD7-BD8 chassis. There were two styles of towers : regular and low profile and I went for the latter. The holes are not a direct fit, but require slight modification to shift the holes slightly outwards. You will see that these towers have countersunk screw holes, I just flipped them the other way round. I had to do multiple test fits to make sure that A - The towers are not tweaking the bulkheads and B - Material removed from both left and right side holes were relatively the same.
The gear differential is a Schumacher Mi5 differential gear set and or you can use a TRF 417 White colored differential. I opted for the Mi5 because it was the only one I could get my hands on at the time. However this setup posed some challenges which were A - flipped the bearing cam holders so the bearing outputs were facing inwards towards the differential case. This took up a lot of slop and allowed the differential to operate correctly. B - The bearings would shift out of the outputs so I drilled a small hole and used a set screw to act as a stop so the bearings would vibrate / slip out of the holders. C - I also had to sand the bearing cam holders down so the inward face wouldn't rub against the differential case.
The central drive and spur gear setup. I just flipped it and spaced the spur gear away just slightly from the motor mount. It is a tight squeeze, but no more boss pinion gears.
The only issue I have at the moment is the rear drive train where the MIP CVDs are too long. Since the Schumacher Mi5 differential fits in nicely, the outputs wont allow the MIP CVDs to be placed in correctly. In order to make it work I would have to space out the rear hub carrier by 2-3 mm. Luckily the lower suspension arm has two hing-pin hole locations. The standard location is the inner hole which didn't given me enough space, and so I simply moved the hub carrier to the outer hole and it worked. However, the rear width was a little too wide compared to the front and so I bought really thin wheel hexes to help over come this issue.
I hope this helps and I will do a video on a later date.
The gear differential is a Schumacher Mi5 differential gear set and or you can use a TRF 417 White colored differential. I opted for the Mi5 because it was the only one I could get my hands on at the time. However this setup posed some challenges which were A - flipped the bearing cam holders so the bearing outputs were facing inwards towards the differential case. This took up a lot of slop and allowed the differential to operate correctly. B - The bearings would shift out of the outputs so I drilled a small hole and used a set screw to act as a stop so the bearings would vibrate / slip out of the holders. C - I also had to sand the bearing cam holders down so the inward face wouldn't rub against the differential case.
The central drive and spur gear setup. I just flipped it and spaced the spur gear away just slightly from the motor mount. It is a tight squeeze, but no more boss pinion gears.
The only issue I have at the moment is the rear drive train where the MIP CVDs are too long. Since the Schumacher Mi5 differential fits in nicely, the outputs wont allow the MIP CVDs to be placed in correctly. In order to make it work I would have to space out the rear hub carrier by 2-3 mm. Luckily the lower suspension arm has two hing-pin hole locations. The standard location is the inner hole which didn't given me enough space, and so I simply moved the hub carrier to the outer hole and it worked. However, the rear width was a little too wide compared to the front and so I bought really thin wheel hexes to help over come this issue.
I hope this helps and I will do a video on a later date.
Regarding the rear CVD's.. when I built my car, the CVD's that are supposed to go on the rear were too long to be used at all. They bind. Using the shorter version from the front works perfectly though, no idea why..It would be nice with some different options for CVD bones. Still haven't run my car but I have a feeling they'll wear where the pin goes through the aluminium cup. I have found a steel set of bones with steel blades, but I guess they'll wear out the outdrives instead..
perhaps steel bones + std plastic blades is a decent combo.
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
