zoombie

i dont get how adj the shock could adjust the ride height...if u adj the thing downward, there is only a certain amount that the shock could travel so if u adj it down further wouldnt it just create more tension on the spring....

Steevo

What you are saying is right however you will notice that if you remove the shocks from the car and screw the collars all the way to the top, the springs will float up and down loosly so if you mounted them on the car this way the car would sit at its lowest to the ground.
Now if you adjust the collars so that they screw down onto the spring and just begin to compress it you will notice that when fitted to the car it will now sit higher off the ground.
So really the collar should never really compress the springs, they only adjust the amount of travel in the piston before the spring starts to compress, if you can see what I mean.
The collar should never be used to adjust spring rate etc. This can only be done properly by choosing different rate (colour) springs.
I hope this made sense

Steevo

zoombie

i get what you are saying so at the end of the day teh collar are pretty useless , not much different from a normal shock.

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Zoombie,
The reason adjusting the preload collars adjusts ride height is because of the weight of hte car. If you lift up your car, you will notice that the wheels/suspension falls down some. When you put the car down, it lowers itself because the piston travels up into the shock. Now since hte piston more likely than not about halfway up the shock at ride height, it has room to work with. And since our touring car springs are quite hard, they resist the force of gravity to compress with just the car's weight. So when you adjust the collars, the force of hte spring pushing up is still the same so the less room it has to sag the higher the car is gonna ride.

Steevo

Well the collars do have a function but do the same as the spacers. If you try what I explained in the previous post you will see what I mean.
Whether it be the threaded collars or the snap on spacers they just adjust how far the piston travels back into the shock when the car is sitting on the ground, therefore adjusting ride height..

As mentioned before they should never be used to affect spring rate or apply a pre load on the spring. Thats what the different springs/pistons and oils are used for..

Steevo

psycho

I agree with everything that has been discussed about the preload adjustment, thumbscrew or snap on. One drawback of the snap on preload spacers is that it is difficult to make fine adjustments. You usually have 1mm, 2mm and 4, spacers, but if you need 1/2mm to get the car tweaked right, you're hosed. That's one thing that makes the threaded collars nice. While they are not solely for setting the weak, they do make it a whole lot easier if you have the right tools to get the tweak set right.

OK, now for something completely different! For those you you planning on racing at TA's TCS race in June, they said the registration form will be on www.tamiyausa.com in the next week or so. Woo hoo! I can't wait for TCS. GT3 and Tarmac rally for me this time.

jackhammer74

How are you guys gearing for stock?
I'm trading between an MVP, a P2K and a Fantom P2K2, I'm kinda confused. I got 120t and 125t 64 pitch spurs, and pinions between 38t to 44t. Track set ups are a compromise for the most part, technical sections with a couple very fast sections plus the straightaway.

gcooper

I would say the best way to go is a 120/35 for stock.

38 to 44 is probably wayy too tall for most tracks. You would need a large track 40 and over. Depending on the setup you might be able to squeek in a 38 depending on motor like a p2k. MVPs/green3s/monsters probably will not like teeth much over 35.

The problem is the more you go over 35 the slower you probably be. Yes the straights you might be fast but you will lose all your time with no punch outta the corners.

I would never go below a 35. Once you get a handle on 120/35 try a 116/37 that will make you a little quicker.

So my suggestion is buy 3 more pinions and keep your 125 for mod.

Coop

izzyracer

iTrader: (27)

I agree with Gcopper, I was racing last night with my R at SoCal Raceway and finish miserably ar 4th B main. My car just did not have enough punch gearing at 120S/38P with a green and P2K
My driving was OK but the car struggled on the inside and I don't know why I did not try gearing lower. Anyway, I'll try again next Saturday.

lonestar1127

iTrader: (1)

guys...any idea whether tamiya produce the ssg chassis as option parts

izzyracer

iTrader: (27)

Yes, if you look at Ebay, you will find em, search for 'TA04'. They should be in US market late this month.

BTW, sign up for TCS in Tamiya TA track is now on the site.

Izzy

Steevo

check this site for all the SSG bits for the TA04 that you could want at good prices too
HOBBYMANIA WEB SITE
Email Andy and tell him what you're after and he'll let you know if its in stock

Steevo

jackhammer74

gcooper, Izzyracer thanks for the responses I'll try that in a couple weeks.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Attention all TCS racers that are coming to Memphis-

Our AMB r/c and Jlap software is working well. If you have personal transponders please bring them. We are proud to announce this new system and software!!!

Please spread the word about the TCS race. We would LOVE to have all of you!!!

itchynads

Just a question for anyone who has the TA04 TRF car kit...can you use side by side battery packs with the chassis or does it restrict you to stick packs???

I'm looking for a good looking TCS car and the TA04 TRF seems to fit the bil Just worried that I won't be able to use all my current batteries.