Ta04r...
02-18-2003, 02:11 PM
#1096
Regional Moderator
Originally posted by izzyracer
Which is the Ball Stud?
Which is the Ball Stud?
02-18-2003, 04:15 PM
#1097
Originally posted by Mike F
Hey izzyracer - it's actually called the ball connector in the manual. It's on the top plate, the 2 that connect into the steering posts
Hey izzyracer - it's actually called the ball connector in the manual. It's on the top plate, the 2 that connect into the steering posts
Question:
I rebuild my R yesterday adn feels spanking new again, but, the Long belt is so thight, and I remember this from happenig the first time. I heared it is bette if it is a bit loose. Any suggestions besides waiting till it stretches off on nit's own?
thanks
02-18-2003, 04:44 PM
#1098
Regional Moderator
are you using the belt tensioner? Nothings binding at the diff cases correct?
02-18-2003, 08:07 PM
#1100
Mike ,did you get rid of that fragile tc-3 for a R?You're gettin sneeky
02-19-2003, 01:12 AM
#1101
Originally posted by izzyracer
Oh yah!, that's made of aluminum?
Question:
I rebuild my R yesterday adn feels spanking new again, but, the Long belt is so thight, and I remember this from happenig the first time. I heared it is bette if it is a bit loose. Any suggestions besides waiting till it stretches off on nit's own?
thanks
Oh yah!, that's made of aluminum?
Question:
I rebuild my R yesterday adn feels spanking new again, but, the Long belt is so thight, and I remember this from happenig the first time. I heared it is bette if it is a bit loose. Any suggestions besides waiting till it stretches off on nit's own?
thanks
this will assure that your chassis is flat, and that the belt's tension is at what i call the natural state.
why you may have noticed the belt being looser before is tha the top deck of the TAO4 does not fit the gap between the rear bulkhead and the front gearbox perfectly, in fact it is most often too small... wha this does is when you hit something hard, it will cause the car to flex, thus bringing the two ends of the car together, and taking uo the slack that is left by the small top deck.
this in turn makes your belt tension looser, and by rebuilding your car, i am guessing that you removed your top deck, and have allowed the belt to return to the "natural" state of tension
hopefully this helps
peter
02-19-2003, 06:38 AM
#1102
Regional Moderator
Originally posted by littledog
Mike ,did you get rid of that fragile tc-3 for a R?You're gettin sneeky
Mike ,did you get rid of that fragile tc-3 for a R?You're gettin sneeky
The 04R is for the Tamiya race but I do plan on kicking some serious arse with it at some of the heats.
02-19-2003, 06:41 AM
#1103
Regional Moderator
Originally posted by peter_robinson
the sure fire way to tell what your belt's natural tension is, is to make sure that all of your top daeck screws are loosened, and then press your chassis down on something flat, i.e. counter top, set-up board, etc. then re tighten the screws in a cross pattern.
this will assure that your chassis is flat, and that the belt's tension is at what i call the natural state.
why you may have noticed the belt being looser before is tha the top deck of the TAO4 does not fit the gap between the rear bulkhead and the front gearbox perfectly, in fact it is most often too small... wha this does is when you hit something hard, it will cause the car to flex, thus bringing the two ends of the car together, and taking uo the slack that is left by the small top deck.
this in turn makes your belt tension looser, and by rebuilding your car, i am guessing that you removed your top deck, and have allowed the belt to return to the "natural" state of tension
hopefully this helps
peter
the sure fire way to tell what your belt's natural tension is, is to make sure that all of your top daeck screws are loosened, and then press your chassis down on something flat, i.e. counter top, set-up board, etc. then re tighten the screws in a cross pattern.
this will assure that your chassis is flat, and that the belt's tension is at what i call the natural state.
why you may have noticed the belt being looser before is tha the top deck of the TAO4 does not fit the gap between the rear bulkhead and the front gearbox perfectly, in fact it is most often too small... wha this does is when you hit something hard, it will cause the car to flex, thus bringing the two ends of the car together, and taking uo the slack that is left by the small top deck.
this in turn makes your belt tension looser, and by rebuilding your car, i am guessing that you removed your top deck, and have allowed the belt to return to the "natural" state of tension
hopefully this helps
peter
02-19-2003, 01:03 PM
#1105
no problem!
there is a plethora of little things that i learned about that car when i was racing TCS, just the little things that make it as fast as any other car out there.
and after all of that, i made the mistake of running the EVO II at the world finals, DOH!
peter
there is a plethora of little things that i learned about that car when i was racing TCS, just the little things that make it as fast as any other car out there.
and after all of that, i made the mistake of running the EVO II at the world finals, DOH!
peter
02-19-2003, 04:30 PM
#1106
Regional Moderator
Hey Peter, any more tricks that you want to give out? What options did you use when you had your 04R?
02-19-2003, 04:43 PM
#1107
Mike no big secrets to the car spray out the bearings it frees the car alot. Ti if you have the $$$ with no min weight it all helps. Try the 04 SS also in GT2 it can be an animal, Sam Hudson ran one at Nats this year with 2 days on it and put it second after Joven.
Also alternate between a 1-way and 1-way countershaft depending on grip but I prefer the car with a 1-way in it even in the local temps of 40F around here right now
For options I use the Carbon Towers and 1-way not much else is needed with the R
Dan
Also alternate between a 1-way and 1-way countershaft depending on grip but I prefer the car with a 1-way in it even in the local temps of 40F around here right now
For options I use the Carbon Towers and 1-way not much else is needed with the R
Dan
02-20-2003, 06:33 AM
#1108
Regional Moderator
Difuser - thanks. The first thing I did, before putting the car together, is degreased the bearings, sprayed them with motor cleaner and dropped a small amount (1/2) drop of TRIBO. The diff bearings I took the seals off and sprayed them with motor spray, left the seals off, free as a bird. The Derlin outdrives sure make a big difference
The Graphite shock towers are still on back order from my LHS. I decided to go with the center one way only set up to see how that works for me. I really don't like front one ways that much, I've used them in my TA03 DJ edition so I know how to drive with one in the car but I prefer not to. I also plan on running the car without the belt tensioner.
I did notice that the rear arms, once assembled as mentioned in the manual, that they were in a slight upright angle when the car sat flat. I set my droop at 5mm in the rear and 3 mm in the front. It's parallel to the surface now.
Front bumper - anyone do anything different to theirs on the R? It doesn't seem too stable, 2-3x10mm screws is the only thing holding this in place
Tires/Rims and Inserts. I'm running on asphalt, OK traction. Any recommendations there? The rims that came in my kit, one seems to be slightly out of round.
The Graphite shock towers are still on back order from my LHS. I decided to go with the center one way only set up to see how that works for me. I really don't like front one ways that much, I've used them in my TA03 DJ edition so I know how to drive with one in the car but I prefer not to. I also plan on running the car without the belt tensioner.
I did notice that the rear arms, once assembled as mentioned in the manual, that they were in a slight upright angle when the car sat flat. I set my droop at 5mm in the rear and 3 mm in the front. It's parallel to the surface now.
Front bumper - anyone do anything different to theirs on the R? It doesn't seem too stable, 2-3x10mm screws is the only thing holding this in place
Tires/Rims and Inserts. I'm running on asphalt, OK traction. Any recommendations there? The rims that came in my kit, one seems to be slightly out of round.
02-20-2003, 08:18 AM
#1109
This is some good info, because I just put some new arms on the rear of my 04R and it was real loose in the handling department.
Originally posted by Mike F
Difuser - thanks. The first thing I did, before putting the car together, is degreased the bearings, sprayed them with motor cleaner and dropped a small amount (1/2) drop of TRIBO. The diff bearings I took the seals off and sprayed them with motor spray, left the seals off, free as a bird. The Derlin outdrives sure make a big difference
The Graphite shock towers are still on back order from my LHS. I decided to go with the center one way only set up to see how that works for me. I really don't like front one ways that much, I've used them in my TA03 DJ edition so I know how to drive with one in the car but I prefer not to. I also plan on running the car without the belt tensioner.
I did notice that the rear arms, once assembled as mentioned in the manual, that they were in a slight upright angle when the car sat flat. I set my droop at 5mm in the rear and 3 mm in the front. It's parallel to the surface now.
Front bumper - anyone do anything different to theirs on the R? It doesn't seem too stable, 2-3x10mm screws is the only thing holding this in place
Tires/Rims and Inserts. I'm running on asphalt, OK traction. Any recommendations there? The rims that came in my kit, one seems to be slightly out of round.
Difuser - thanks. The first thing I did, before putting the car together, is degreased the bearings, sprayed them with motor cleaner and dropped a small amount (1/2) drop of TRIBO. The diff bearings I took the seals off and sprayed them with motor spray, left the seals off, free as a bird. The Derlin outdrives sure make a big difference
The Graphite shock towers are still on back order from my LHS. I decided to go with the center one way only set up to see how that works for me. I really don't like front one ways that much, I've used them in my TA03 DJ edition so I know how to drive with one in the car but I prefer not to. I also plan on running the car without the belt tensioner.
I did notice that the rear arms, once assembled as mentioned in the manual, that they were in a slight upright angle when the car sat flat. I set my droop at 5mm in the rear and 3 mm in the front. It's parallel to the surface now.
Front bumper - anyone do anything different to theirs on the R? It doesn't seem too stable, 2-3x10mm screws is the only thing holding this in place
Tires/Rims and Inserts. I'm running on asphalt, OK traction. Any recommendations there? The rims that came in my kit, one seems to be slightly out of round.
02-20-2003, 08:33 AM
#1110
Sounds good I run to TCS out here on a weekly basis so I run A comp this time of year and in April/May switch over to the B2 comp
Out here alot of guys run Sorex with a medium insert
The wheels are generally true I run the dish for the most part 0mm offset and use the shim kit for widening track, it gives you 1 or 2 mm shim to adjust.
Forgot about the Diff outdrive definately a must have for the car
I leave the seals on mainly for maintenance issues I hate tearing the car down after race day. There is alot less maintenance with them on even as shielded as they are
D
Out here alot of guys run Sorex with a medium insert
The wheels are generally true I run the dish for the most part 0mm offset and use the shim kit for widening track, it gives you 1 or 2 mm shim to adjust.
Forgot about the Diff outdrive definately a must have for the car
I leave the seals on mainly for maintenance issues I hate tearing the car down after race day. There is alot less maintenance with them on even as shielded as they are
D