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Old 02-18-2003, 03:11 PM   #1096
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Quote:
Originally posted by izzyracer
Which is the Ball Stud?
Hey izzyracer - it's actually called the ball connector in the manual. It's on the top plate, the 2 that connect into the steering posts
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Old 02-18-2003, 05:15 PM   #1097
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike F
Hey izzyracer - it's actually called the ball connector in the manual. It's on the top plate, the 2 that connect into the steering posts
Oh yah!, that's made of aluminum?

Question:
I rebuild my R yesterday adn feels spanking new again, but, the Long belt is so thight, and I remember this from happenig the first time. I heared it is bette if it is a bit loose. Any suggestions besides waiting till it stretches off on nit's own?

thanks
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Old 02-18-2003, 05:44 PM   #1098
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are you using the belt tensioner? Nothings binding at the diff cases correct?
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Old 02-18-2003, 09:03 PM   #1099
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belt tnsioner is just floating and diff were just rebuilt.
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Old 02-18-2003, 09:07 PM   #1100
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Mike ,did you get rid of that fragile tc-3 for a R?You're gettin sneeky
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Old 02-19-2003, 02:12 AM   #1101
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Quote:
Originally posted by izzyracer
Oh yah!, that's made of aluminum?

Question:
I rebuild my R yesterday adn feels spanking new again, but, the Long belt is so thight, and I remember this from happenig the first time. I heared it is bette if it is a bit loose. Any suggestions besides waiting till it stretches off on nit's own?

thanks
the sure fire way to tell what your belt's natural tension is, is to make sure that all of your top daeck screws are loosened, and then press your chassis down on something flat, i.e. counter top, set-up board, etc. then re tighten the screws in a cross pattern.

this will assure that your chassis is flat, and that the belt's tension is at what i call the natural state.

why you may have noticed the belt being looser before is tha the top deck of the TAO4 does not fit the gap between the rear bulkhead and the front gearbox perfectly, in fact it is most often too small... wha this does is when you hit something hard, it will cause the car to flex, thus bringing the two ends of the car together, and taking uo the slack that is left by the small top deck.

this in turn makes your belt tension looser, and by rebuilding your car, i am guessing that you removed your top deck, and have allowed the belt to return to the "natural" state of tension

hopefully this helps

peter
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:38 AM   #1102
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Quote:
Originally posted by littledog
Mike ,did you get rid of that fragile tc-3 for a R?You're gettin sneeky
Fragile yes but still the best car out there, IMO.

The 04R is for the Tamiya race but I do plan on kicking some serious arse with it at some of the heats.
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:41 AM   #1103
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Quote:
Originally posted by peter_robinson
the sure fire way to tell what your belt's natural tension is, is to make sure that all of your top daeck screws are loosened, and then press your chassis down on something flat, i.e. counter top, set-up board, etc. then re tighten the screws in a cross pattern.

this will assure that your chassis is flat, and that the belt's tension is at what i call the natural state.

why you may have noticed the belt being looser before is tha the top deck of the TAO4 does not fit the gap between the rear bulkhead and the front gearbox perfectly, in fact it is most often too small... wha this does is when you hit something hard, it will cause the car to flex, thus bringing the two ends of the car together, and taking uo the slack that is left by the small top deck.

this in turn makes your belt tension looser, and by rebuilding your car, i am guessing that you removed your top deck, and have allowed the belt to return to the "natural" state of tension

hopefully this helps

peter
good information Peter, I'll have to remember this whenever I rebuild anything and take the top plat off.
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Old 02-19-2003, 09:16 AM   #1104
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Peter: thanks for that info. It is the same procedure when you have a tweak chassis, aint it. I did that so I guess the tension on my belt is in a "natural" state.

Thanks!
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Old 02-19-2003, 02:03 PM   #1105
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no problem!

there is a plethora of little things that i learned about that car when i was racing TCS, just the little things that make it as fast as any other car out there.

and after all of that, i made the mistake of running the EVO II at the world finals, DOH!

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Old 02-19-2003, 05:30 PM   #1106
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Hey Peter, any more tricks that you want to give out? What options did you use when you had your 04R?
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Old 02-19-2003, 05:43 PM   #1107
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Mike no big secrets to the car spray out the bearings it frees the car alot. Ti if you have the $$$ with no min weight it all helps. Try the 04 SS also in GT2 it can be an animal, Sam Hudson ran one at Nats this year with 2 days on it and put it second after Joven.

Also alternate between a 1-way and 1-way countershaft depending on grip but I prefer the car with a 1-way in it even in the local temps of 40F around here right now

For options I use the Carbon Towers and 1-way not much else is needed with the R

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Old 02-20-2003, 07:33 AM   #1108
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Difuser - thanks. The first thing I did, before putting the car together, is degreased the bearings, sprayed them with motor cleaner and dropped a small amount (1/2) drop of TRIBO. The diff bearings I took the seals off and sprayed them with motor spray, left the seals off, free as a bird. The Derlin outdrives sure make a big difference

The Graphite shock towers are still on back order from my LHS. I decided to go with the center one way only set up to see how that works for me. I really don't like front one ways that much, I've used them in my TA03 DJ edition so I know how to drive with one in the car but I prefer not to. I also plan on running the car without the belt tensioner.

I did notice that the rear arms, once assembled as mentioned in the manual, that they were in a slight upright angle when the car sat flat. I set my droop at 5mm in the rear and 3 mm in the front. It's parallel to the surface now.

Front bumper - anyone do anything different to theirs on the R? It doesn't seem too stable, 2-3x10mm screws is the only thing holding this in place

Tires/Rims and Inserts. I'm running on asphalt, OK traction. Any recommendations there? The rims that came in my kit, one seems to be slightly out of round.
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Old 02-20-2003, 09:18 AM   #1109
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This is some good info, because I just put some new arms on the rear of my 04R and it was real loose in the handling department.

Quote:
Originally posted by Mike F
Difuser - thanks. The first thing I did, before putting the car together, is degreased the bearings, sprayed them with motor cleaner and dropped a small amount (1/2) drop of TRIBO. The diff bearings I took the seals off and sprayed them with motor spray, left the seals off, free as a bird. The Derlin outdrives sure make a big difference

The Graphite shock towers are still on back order from my LHS. I decided to go with the center one way only set up to see how that works for me. I really don't like front one ways that much, I've used them in my TA03 DJ edition so I know how to drive with one in the car but I prefer not to. I also plan on running the car without the belt tensioner.

I did notice that the rear arms, once assembled as mentioned in the manual, that they were in a slight upright angle when the car sat flat. I set my droop at 5mm in the rear and 3 mm in the front. It's parallel to the surface now.

Front bumper - anyone do anything different to theirs on the R? It doesn't seem too stable, 2-3x10mm screws is the only thing holding this in place

Tires/Rims and Inserts. I'm running on asphalt, OK traction. Any recommendations there? The rims that came in my kit, one seems to be slightly out of round.
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Old 02-20-2003, 09:33 AM   #1110
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Sounds good I run to TCS out here on a weekly basis so I run A comp this time of year and in April/May switch over to the B2 comp

Out here alot of guys run Sorex with a medium insert

The wheels are generally true I run the dish for the most part 0mm offset and use the shim kit for widening track, it gives you 1 or 2 mm shim to adjust.

Forgot about the Diff outdrive definately a must have for the car

I leave the seals on mainly for maintenance issues I hate tearing the car down after race day. There is alot less maintenance with them on even as shielded as they are

D
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