Ta04r...
10-16-2002, 07:01 PM
#796
wat abt the carbon lower deck compare to the original plastic,carbon reinforced and carbon reinforced slotted lower deck???...
ur weight comparsion has really shed some light for mi.thanx...
also,must remember to change away the 5mm brass(gold colour)ball connecter away tat comes with the F/R carbon damper stay and also the alum steering arms,they weigh a lot!!!
ur weight comparsion has really shed some light for mi.thanx...
also,must remember to change away the 5mm brass(gold colour)ball connecter away tat comes with the F/R carbon damper stay and also the alum steering arms,they weigh a lot!!!
10-16-2002, 07:22 PM
#797
I am not sure what the carbon Deck weighs as I have not chosen to convert to one as yet. If i do i will weigh them to compare but i can imagine a great deal of difference.
The aluminium steering arms in my opinion are too expensive and are not necessary. I have only replaced the bits that i saw as being practical. Although the Motor Heatsink weighs a lot more it is very practical in helping to keep the motor cooler.
The aluminium steering arms in my opinion are too expensive and are not necessary. I have only replaced the bits that i saw as being practical. Although the Motor Heatsink weighs a lot more it is very practical in helping to keep the motor cooler.
10-16-2002, 07:26 PM
#798
i beg to differ...
i change most of the parts to alum to eliminate flex,...in the long run,i'm veri sure they help to elminate the flex...
thanx for ur info!!!
i change most of the parts to alum to eliminate flex,...in the long run,i'm veri sure they help to elminate the flex...
thanx for ur info!!!
10-16-2002, 07:37 PM
#799
It depends on the parts, in my opinion, having alloy suspension parts are pointless, as you can buy the carbon reinforced items and the Alloy is heavier and if bent stay bent and are expensive to replace.
However the alloy steering set is a nice investment as it is very precise....
However the alloy steering set is a nice investment as it is very precise....
10-16-2002, 07:38 PM
#800
Originally posted by ijnek
i beg to differ...
i change most of the parts to alum to eliminate flex,...in the long run,i'm veri sure they help to elminate the flex...
thanx for ur info!!!
i beg to differ...
i change most of the parts to alum to eliminate flex,...in the long run,i'm veri sure they help to elminate the flex...
thanx for ur info!!!
10-16-2002, 08:00 PM
#801
I too agree that the alloy suspension parts are unnecessary due to the quality of the original or hardened parts. As mentioned alloy can bend on impact and more often than not you don't notice the bend apart from the fact that you are now fighting your steering set up to try and compensate. Once its bent thats it!!
I still think though that the original steering arms are more than adequate and flex is not a big issue due to their design. This is just my opinion though and others may choose to oppose.
I still think though that the original steering arms are more than adequate and flex is not a big issue due to their design. This is just my opinion though and others may choose to oppose.
10-17-2002, 02:42 AM
#802
If you replace the origional steering drag link with a turnbuckle, ball cups, and pivot balls yu will reduce the slop alot more than any aluminum piece will with the standard draglink. Also you can use small o-rings on the pivot balls before you place the ballcup on.... this will reduce alot of slop as long as it doesn't bind the part..
BTW: Greg is absolutely correct Churikarn used the spacers to change the rollcenter and adjust kick up/anti-squat.
BTW: Greg is absolutely correct Churikarn used the spacers to change the rollcenter and adjust kick up/anti-squat.
10-17-2002, 03:20 AM
#803
Yes I use the Rubber "O" Rings as well to great effect. I started using them on the shock mounting balls before snapping on the shocks and they work a treat. My shocks dont twist from side to side any more.
To be honest my 04 doesn't really have much slop at all. Especially compared to my TA03F which is full of alloy parts including the steering assembly.
Changing to the alloy steering arms as far as i can see will make no difference to the "slop". I found that what little slop there is in my 04, is generated in the ball cups and replacing them often will help keep that to a minimum.
To be honest my 04 doesn't really have much slop at all. Especially compared to my TA03F which is full of alloy parts including the steering assembly.
Changing to the alloy steering arms as far as i can see will make no difference to the "slop". I found that what little slop there is in my 04, is generated in the ball cups and replacing them often will help keep that to a minimum.
10-21-2002, 08:22 AM
#804
Foam bumper
Does anyone know if Tamiya has a larger foam bumper for the TA04-R? The stock one seems to small, and allows the body in the front to kinda curl under at high speed when using a normal .030 lexan body, (doesnt do this with the Tamiya .040 bodies). Even another bumper off of another car, has anyone tried this?
10-21-2002, 09:08 AM
#805
hobbipro -
The bumper for the 414M is bigger and the bumper for the TA04S is bigger still. However, your best bet for preventing the front of the bumper from curling under is to get the Ta04 racing body mount set (53426). The puts the body mounts up where the bumper mounts.
The bumper for the 414M is bigger and the bumper for the TA04S is bigger still. However, your best bet for preventing the front of the bumper from curling under is to get the Ta04 racing body mount set (53426). The puts the body mounts up where the bumper mounts.
10-24-2002, 03:06 AM
#806
Originally posted by hobbipro
The smaller plastic pulleys are problematic for all cars. I dont mean they wear out over night, but if you drive alot they will last a few months. They mainly just wear themselves out, they probably turn 2-3 times the revolutions as the ball diff pulleys. The ball diff pulleys see the same rocks, and dust the driver pulleys see, but because they are larger they do not wear out as quickly. I use the aluminum center pulleys, and believe it or not you can use 2 aluminums to replace the 2 plastic ones, That is if you dont want to use the one way pulley in combination with 1 aluminum pulley for full time 4wd.
All you do is slide 2 aluminum pulleys in place like the plastic ones did (side by side, set screws on opposite ends from each other) tighten the set screw like the aluminum holder did to hold the plastic pulleys in place on the shaft flat spot, Now you will need to tighten down the other aluminum pulley, But theres no flat spot? well tighten it down to make a mark on the shaft, then take the shaft out and make a flat spot with a file, or rotory tool. Put her back together, Now you have 2 aluminum pulleys, with out the one way for full time 4wd. This may not be allowed at a TCS even, but Tamiya should make a shaft with 2 flat spots to do this conversion. Mine sure have lasted a long time!
The smaller plastic pulleys are problematic for all cars. I dont mean they wear out over night, but if you drive alot they will last a few months. They mainly just wear themselves out, they probably turn 2-3 times the revolutions as the ball diff pulleys. The ball diff pulleys see the same rocks, and dust the driver pulleys see, but because they are larger they do not wear out as quickly. I use the aluminum center pulleys, and believe it or not you can use 2 aluminums to replace the 2 plastic ones, That is if you dont want to use the one way pulley in combination with 1 aluminum pulley for full time 4wd.
All you do is slide 2 aluminum pulleys in place like the plastic ones did (side by side, set screws on opposite ends from each other) tighten the set screw like the aluminum holder did to hold the plastic pulleys in place on the shaft flat spot, Now you will need to tighten down the other aluminum pulley, But theres no flat spot? well tighten it down to make a mark on the shaft, then take the shaft out and make a flat spot with a file, or rotory tool. Put her back together, Now you have 2 aluminum pulleys, with out the one way for full time 4wd. This may not be allowed at a TCS even, but Tamiya should make a shaft with 2 flat spots to do this conversion. Mine sure have lasted a long time!
Heres a Quick Pic.
10-26-2002, 01:42 PM
#808
Wow, cant believe it was that long ago I wrote that! I still have the car and love it, and the dual aluminum pulley set up is still going strong!
linger, thanks for pointing me to the TA04S bumper, it is about 12mm larger and keeps the body nice and snug in the front. Now it can not bend down and scrape the ground. I've though about the racing body posts, but I like the shock tower mounted ones, they tend to hold the hood in a way that helps keep the body from cracking around the fender wells.
linger, thanks for pointing me to the TA04S bumper, it is about 12mm larger and keeps the body nice and snug in the front. Now it can not bend down and scrape the ground. I've though about the racing body posts, but I like the shock tower mounted ones, they tend to hold the hood in a way that helps keep the body from cracking around the fender wells.
10-29-2002, 06:28 PM
#809
BALL DIFF QUESTION
Heres a Question for the Pro's.....
If you were to install only one ball diff in your TA04 which end would be the best to install it in, front or rear and why???
Or would installing only one ball diff in either end throw out the geometry of the car???
Any comments from experience would be appreciated....
Steevo
If you were to install only one ball diff in your TA04 which end would be the best to install it in, front or rear and why???
Or would installing only one ball diff in either end throw out the geometry of the car???
Any comments from experience would be appreciated....
Steevo
Last edited by Steevo; 10-30-2002 at 05:23 PM.
10-29-2002, 08:48 PM
#810
From my research you would place it in the rear, but I can't remeber why....anyone want to refresh my memory?