Serpent 1:10 F1
12-15-2013, 11:10 AM
#241
sorry for the questions, as I have parked my f110, I am running other classes for now, and will be getting it back on a track soon.
thanks
12-15-2013, 05:21 PM
#242
Tech Adept
Hi Bigz, I used 2x m3x15 countersunk screws and then 2x nylock nuts to clamp them down. I didn't install the side pods on the main chassis so the nylock's came from that. I think I got the screws from another serpent kit so I'm keeping it 'In the family'. Don't worry about the screws being smaller in diameter and initially loose in the chassis until you tighten the nuts onto them. I've never had an issue plus there's no way for the heads to scrap if your chassis bottoms out. I use the Tamiya Ferrari bodyset cause I like the width and look of the front wing. Plus I think it's heavier than the kit lexan wing set up, so some more weight over the front end won't hurt you.
Regards, Andrew K
Regards, Andrew K
12-15-2013, 05:24 PM
#243
And yes I know it's not a problem if I don't hit things, but I do make mistakes and crash occasionally, and would rather glance/bounce off things rather than getting stuck under them.
Anyway thanks for the info, I have a couple of front wing screws from a F103, which I believe are the same diameter but are longer (will check later)
Cheers
Rob.
12-15-2013, 09:15 PM
#244
Yep the 104 screws will work for the wings. Some rules say that you can't use a lexan wing. Depending on where you race you might not be allowed to run the serpent wing.
12-16-2013, 12:18 AM
#245
The Serpent ones damage very easily if you hit things, and I race at a track that is temporarily setup on the day, which means if there's any gap between the barrier & ground the wing gets wedged underneath it.
And yes I know it's not a problem if I don't hit things, but I do make mistakes and crash occasionally, and would rather glance/bounce off things rather than getting stuck under them.
Anyway thanks for the info, I have a couple of front wing screws from a F103, which I believe are the same diameter but are longer (will check later)
Cheers
Rob.
And yes I know it's not a problem if I don't hit things, but I do make mistakes and crash occasionally, and would rather glance/bounce off things rather than getting stuck under them.
Anyway thanks for the info, I have a couple of front wing screws from a F103, which I believe are the same diameter but are longer (will check later)
Cheers
Rob.
12-16-2013, 01:02 AM
#246
With front wing I use the FGX one, just screws to the SERPENT wing mount.
12-16-2013, 03:41 AM
#247
12-18-2013, 01:14 AM
#248
Droop,right height, FDR
Hi. I'm fairly new to F1 cars so natually have some questions.
1. Front droop difference seems very extreme. It's always the left front side that lifts first even when I put a lot more tension on Rt side spring. It seems to be because of the central tube being eccentric. Any answer or solution to that?
2. My FDR is 2.69 in sweeping outdoor asphalt track. It is fine there but it may be lack of a bit of torque in tighter and tricky track. What are your FDR's?
3. I put 0/20 rear axle insert and 4mm front spacers as manual recommended but the right height is just too low with 63mm rubber tires. Did I do something wrong? I ended up putting 1mm in the front and 1/10 insert in the rear and right height is 6/6.5mm. Of course traction roll was severe on carpet track, especially with 3mm negative camber in the front. LOL Maybe I was just fine with manual setup but I just didn't want to scratch the bottom chassis.
4. Maybe because of No.1, my car has lots of torque steer, especially more noticible in carpet track. This is 2 wheel drive and I can't think of many reasons of torque steer. It's got to be the droop, wrong?
1. Front droop difference seems very extreme. It's always the left front side that lifts first even when I put a lot more tension on Rt side spring. It seems to be because of the central tube being eccentric. Any answer or solution to that?
2. My FDR is 2.69 in sweeping outdoor asphalt track. It is fine there but it may be lack of a bit of torque in tighter and tricky track. What are your FDR's?
3. I put 0/20 rear axle insert and 4mm front spacers as manual recommended but the right height is just too low with 63mm rubber tires. Did I do something wrong? I ended up putting 1mm in the front and 1/10 insert in the rear and right height is 6/6.5mm. Of course traction roll was severe on carpet track, especially with 3mm negative camber in the front. LOL Maybe I was just fine with manual setup but I just didn't want to scratch the bottom chassis.
4. Maybe because of No.1, my car has lots of torque steer, especially more noticible in carpet track. This is 2 wheel drive and I can't think of many reasons of torque steer. It's got to be the droop, wrong?
Last edited by snuvet75; 12-18-2013 at 01:31 AM.
12-18-2013, 01:40 AM
#249
Hi. I'm fairly new to F1 cars so natually have some questions.
1. Front droop difference seems very extreme. It's always the left front side that lifts first even when I put a lot more tension on Rt side spring. It seems to be because of the central tube being eccentric. Any answer or solution to that? This is as far as I can see normal mine does it to, the presure you are describing maybe more in excess compared to the normal forces created during racing, I have no problems in this area and all I have done is to loosed the kingpin off half a turn worked for me everywhere Ihave driven so far.
2. Free wheel in the front
Manual shows some shims inside the front wheels. But it causes binding when I tighten the wheel nuts. I can loosen the wheel nuts a bit but it makes the tires wobble when turning and tires may get loose eventually. How do you guys address it? I just removed the shims and problem solved. And I think I can put the engine shims if I want wider track width but it just bothers me the manual shims don't work. This is strange as I have built three and no binding, chech the shim sizes? If the same reshim as you have done or using your own shims, shim it to what you think what it should be, you really wont a slight play feeling
3. My FDR is 2.69 in sweeping outdoor asphalt track. It is fine there but it may be lack of a bit of torque in tighter and tricky track. What are your FDR's? That should be good all round? I started at 2.9 now I'm at 2.4 75/32
4. I put 0/20 rear axle insert and 4mm front spacers as manual recommended but the right height is just too low with 63mm rubber tires. Did I do something wrong? I ended up putting 1mm in the front and 1/10 insert in the rear and right height is 6/6.5mm. Of course traction roll was severe on carpet track, especially with 3mm negative camber in the front. LOL Maybe I was just fine with manual setup but I just didn't want to scratch the bottom chassis. You have done nothing wrong, the factory ride height is a standard, if you track is really bumpy raise it, if not leave it and live with the scratches. Mine is now 5 months old and the chassis base is scratched and has some small grooves in it from wayward driving doesnt hurt the car, yes I know we want our chassis nice but this is unrealistic, Also you mentioned carpet track? Go to the SERPENT WEB page download the carpet setup and work from that not the ashphelt one different al together......
1. Front droop difference seems very extreme. It's always the left front side that lifts first even when I put a lot more tension on Rt side spring. It seems to be because of the central tube being eccentric. Any answer or solution to that? This is as far as I can see normal mine does it to, the presure you are describing maybe more in excess compared to the normal forces created during racing, I have no problems in this area and all I have done is to loosed the kingpin off half a turn worked for me everywhere Ihave driven so far.
2. Free wheel in the front
Manual shows some shims inside the front wheels. But it causes binding when I tighten the wheel nuts. I can loosen the wheel nuts a bit but it makes the tires wobble when turning and tires may get loose eventually. How do you guys address it? I just removed the shims and problem solved. And I think I can put the engine shims if I want wider track width but it just bothers me the manual shims don't work. This is strange as I have built three and no binding, chech the shim sizes? If the same reshim as you have done or using your own shims, shim it to what you think what it should be, you really wont a slight play feeling
3. My FDR is 2.69 in sweeping outdoor asphalt track. It is fine there but it may be lack of a bit of torque in tighter and tricky track. What are your FDR's? That should be good all round? I started at 2.9 now I'm at 2.4 75/32
4. I put 0/20 rear axle insert and 4mm front spacers as manual recommended but the right height is just too low with 63mm rubber tires. Did I do something wrong? I ended up putting 1mm in the front and 1/10 insert in the rear and right height is 6/6.5mm. Of course traction roll was severe on carpet track, especially with 3mm negative camber in the front. LOL Maybe I was just fine with manual setup but I just didn't want to scratch the bottom chassis. You have done nothing wrong, the factory ride height is a standard, if you track is really bumpy raise it, if not leave it and live with the scratches. Mine is now 5 months old and the chassis base is scratched and has some small grooves in it from wayward driving doesnt hurt the car, yes I know we want our chassis nice but this is unrealistic
, Also you mentioned carpet track? Go to the SERPENT WEB page download the carpet setup and work from that not the ashphelt one different al together......
12-18-2013, 01:50 AM
#250
12-18-2013, 01:33 PM
#251
12-18-2013, 02:54 PM
#252
Is this a right comment? I pulled this from xray pan car setup book.
"It's possible to lose too much low end torque needed to effectively accelerate the weight of the car out of a slow corner by undergearing to a smaller rollout and having the motor at too high RPM with very little useable torque".
High rollout means high speed and low torque from my understanding but this comment says smaller rollout will lose torque. It's contradictory to what I've thought. Or does this say too low rollout will not be effective?
"It's possible to lose too much low end torque needed to effectively accelerate the weight of the car out of a slow corner by undergearing to a smaller rollout and having the motor at too high RPM with very little useable torque".
High rollout means high speed and low torque from my understanding but this comment says smaller rollout will lose torque. It's contradictory to what I've thought. Or does this say too low rollout will not be effective?
12-18-2013, 05:46 PM
#253
Is this a right comment? I pulled this from xray pan car setup book.
"It's possible to lose too much low end torque needed to effectively accelerate the weight of the car out of a slow corner by undergearing to a smaller rollout and having the motor at too high RPM with very little useable torque".
High rollout means high speed and low torque from my understanding but this comment says smaller rollout will lose torque. It's contradictory to what I've thought. Or does this say too low rollout will not be effective?
"It's possible to lose too much low end torque needed to effectively accelerate the weight of the car out of a slow corner by undergearing to a smaller rollout and having the motor at too high RPM with very little useable torque".
High rollout means high speed and low torque from my understanding but this comment says smaller rollout will lose torque. It's contradictory to what I've thought. Or does this say too low rollout will not be effective?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-whatever.html
My on road setups are limited, an off road trait
.
12-18-2013, 08:08 PM
#254
I don't think torque is a problem with newer brushless motors. Maybe back in the day you would trade low end with high speed. These days gear for your top RPM at the end of the straight. Gearing needs to be in a proper range. Way to low and your temps will go up because you are at a high RPM all the time. Too high gearing and your temps will go up because you are stressing the motor.
