Trinity Reflex 12 Forum
10-23-2005, 11:13 AM
#31
One of my German colleagues has a stash of upper arms by Cross. They're exactly the same as the Trinity versions. He has made a front end top plate to accommodate the Cross parts on top of Associated arms.
The resulting setup produces more steering than the stock setup.
He didn't have any reliability issues. In a severe crash, the lower arm broke before the upper arm came out of alignment.
The resulting setup produces more steering than the stock setup.
He didn't have any reliability issues. In a severe crash, the lower arm broke before the upper arm came out of alignment.
10-23-2005, 12:23 PM
#32
Does anyone have one of these blue 12 scale chassis /crossbrace they want to sell?? I just need the chassis plateand crossbrace .. maybe someone has an extra or an old one lying around..
I had a reflex 12ss oval car, but i want to run a road course car....
If you do and you want to sell it, please email me at [email protected] with a price, and posibly a pic.. thanks
I had a reflex 12ss oval car, but i want to run a road course car....
If you do and you want to sell it, please email me at [email protected] with a price, and posibly a pic.. thanks
10-23-2005, 12:24 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
One of my German colleagues has a stash of upper arms by Cross. They're exactly the same as the Trinity versions. He has made a front end top plate to accommodate the Cross parts on top of Associated arms.
The resulting setup produces more steering than the stock setup.
He didn't have any reliability issues. In a severe crash, the lower arm broke before the upper arm came out of alignment.
The resulting setup produces more steering than the stock setup.
He didn't have any reliability issues. In a severe crash, the lower arm broke before the upper arm came out of alignment.
do you have any pics of this ??? thanks
10-25-2005, 12:44 AM
#35
Tech Rookie
I think this is normal on this car, I just get some more clearance on the rear so that the motor is 3.5mm to 4mm. I think that the carbonfiber stuff is about 5mm then in the rear.
10-25-2005, 01:46 AM
#36
Originally Posted by burbs
do you have any pics of this ??? thanks
http://www.viol-model-racing.de/renn...up-2/fotos.htm
About halfway through the page there's a picture of a guy peeking under his 12th scaler for rideheight. That's the 12th scale Ascari prototype car I'm talking about.
10-25-2005, 11:51 AM
#37
BURBS i have a complete car missing t plate evtra rear pod plates and i believe a etra front plate and both rear plates (i will check tonight ) let me know if you want them and how much you are willing to pay .
10-31-2005, 08:06 PM
#38
Hey guys, those of you who don't like the tolerances of the stock dampner tubes, there is an easy replacement out there I found. CEFX dampner tubes are exactly the same length without any trimming and have a perfect fit in the car. I bought a set on a whim, thinking they would be close, and they are identical in length. MUCH better fit and feel.
I'll post some pics tomorrow.
doug
I'll post some pics tomorrow.
doug
10-31-2005, 09:27 PM
#39
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Hey guys, those of you who don't like the tolerances of the stock dampner tubes, there is an easy replacement out there I found. CEFX dampner tubes are exactly the same length without any trimming and have a perfect fit in the car. I bought a set on a whim, thinking they would be close, and they are identical in length. MUCH better fit and feel.
I'll post some pics tomorrow.
doug
I'll post some pics tomorrow.
doug
11-01-2005, 05:53 AM
#40
Duh, that would have helped, huh?
Stormer Hobbies carries CEFX parts and kits. They were $15 for the pair, were silver and include the male and female tubes minus the ball ends. Both ends are 4-40 threads, too, so you need to have 4-40 sized links on both sides of the chassis to mount the tubes to.
Stormer Hobbies carries CEFX parts and kits. They were $15 for the pair, were silver and include the male and female tubes minus the ball ends. Both ends are 4-40 threads, too, so you need to have 4-40 sized links on both sides of the chassis to mount the tubes to.
11-01-2005, 11:38 AM
#41
Originally Posted by deeman
Yes, I bought one last year and built it. Bad wobble in the back end. I wasn't the only one. Most people who raced them where I did have long since abandoned them. Either due to inferior parts (rusting) or the front end always being tweaked after the slightest bump. Mine's is sitting in a box (with the steel parts rusting - scary). I called trinity last week since I started back into 12th scale and thought I'd go ahead an get the hub replaced (maybe give it another shot). You just have to call and get a return number, send it to them, and they'll replace it. BTW, I went back to my tried and true CRC Carpet Knife 3.1 (with 3.2 upgrades). I'm much happier now :-).
D...
D...
11-01-2005, 12:12 PM
#42
No, I can assure you, as the son of a hyper-meticulous machinist, there is a definite problem with the tolerances on the hubs. There is a visible wobble (eccentric) in the right side diff hub without the wheel bolted up. Visually, the left hub doesn't even spin around its own center. Besides the fact that the fit of the parts is loose everywhere there should be high tolerances, and that is just poor QC with the company doing the machining. When parts that should fit precisely do not, you will always have imperfect assembly. With CNC parts everywhere in the R/C industry, there is no excuse for poor craftsmanship.
However, with a little futzing with the wheel screws, and using different torque on each screw, you can get the wheels to spin true. One good impact, though, and everything will all be out of balance again. The sandwhich spacer used on the TRC wheels doesn't work with any other wheel brand anyway, so that is definitely not the problem. If a rotating CNC machined part has a visible hop in it, I don't need to put it on a surface plate with a dial indicator to be able to tell if it has rollout or not.
I really like the car, the design and the ideas in the Reflex. The execution and quality control in the machined parts that leaves a bit to be desired, that's all. It's nothing that can't be fixed.
However, with a little futzing with the wheel screws, and using different torque on each screw, you can get the wheels to spin true. One good impact, though, and everything will all be out of balance again. The sandwhich spacer used on the TRC wheels doesn't work with any other wheel brand anyway, so that is definitely not the problem. If a rotating CNC machined part has a visible hop in it, I don't need to put it on a surface plate with a dial indicator to be able to tell if it has rollout or not.
I really like the car, the design and the ideas in the Reflex. The execution and quality control in the machined parts that leaves a bit to be desired, that's all. It's nothing that can't be fixed.
11-01-2005, 01:47 PM
#43
I found that if you take those spacers and put them between the wheel and the hub that the wheel spins a lot straighter with less wobble. Now I don't know if this makes the car illegal for wheel base with or not. And i don't know how much this changes the handle on the car for good racers. I am not bad but but I am also not one of those super fast feel every little tiny thing on car guy niether.
Would this be something I should not do???
Would this be something I should not do???