salze145

I think the fgx, a car that focuses on realism, should be accepted in all competitions. I like the UF1 rules!

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

FGX should be allowed everywhere, it's slower anyways.

I've been racing my box stock FGX for over 1 year, have broken zero parts. Just reinforced the stock front arms with allen wrenches and the front of the chassis with epoxy and short allen wrenches on the side before doing my first ever run. Reinforce before, not after the part has already broken.

On other hand, have broken a lot of parts on my Tamiya F104 (tplate, diffuser/motor mount, left side motor mount, front arms countless of times).

As to cost, FGX IRS is 3 times cheaper than the solid axle F113.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

An FGX with a minimal Exotek conversion (chassis, lower front arm braces) is still less than an F104 V2. From that point, both cars need hop ups, but the 3racing parts are always less expensive for hop up or replacement. Both of my F1Rs have 3Racing rear F104 Pods, diffs and center shocks on them to save money.

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

Some of you guys have such good arguments it makes one's decision much harder, but in a good way.

josecarlo1129

iTrader: (1)

Ditto! That's why I love my FGX with an F104 front assembly. Cheers!

6376vette

Agree 100%. love my rabbit conversion.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

I have zero experience with 21.5 gearing/motors... where should I gear my FGX on a track with a 120ft straight? Im running all speed passion and racers edge shorty packs, motor has stock sensor board but I have a 40deg on the way. 35 spur and 32 pinion is about as big as I can go without getting more creative. That puts me at a 2.96

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

3racing would do themselves a favor if the switched out the 3 gear transmission for a layshaft and belt. They probably have the parts from their touring car and the rear housing for the diff is already adjustable. HPI did this with the original RS4 (a 3 gear transmission car) that offered a belt drive conversion.
This car would be great with that.
I hope they are reading.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Check your temps with the new board in place. The gearing sounds a little tall though. How is the top speed vs. Other cars on track? I run a Justock and TP 21.5 @ 30 deg. and the car is competitive, but still a little lacking on top end.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

I dont know I havent ran it yet... Looking for a starting point.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Go down to a 27 tooth pinion, run it for 5 minutes and temp it. If its 120 or lower add a couple teeth and repeat. You should be in the ballpark with the 31 though. I don't like to go taller than 3.0, but I don't have a 120 ft straight.

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Hi guys whats the secret to loosening up the exotek front upper arms
With the stock pivot balls? I'm taking them in and out but they don't seem to be moving much thanks

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

it uses old metal pivot balls, isn't that in the instruction manual?

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Ive put the old pivot balls in the exotek arms and they have no give they are extremely stiff inside the new arms. Instructions say to take them out and put them back in to make them loosen up but after 20 times it hasnt made any difference. I tried heating them up as well with no luck. Just thought someone may have used a different method that worked better.
Thanks
Adrian

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

maybe try put some black grease on the ball first? and inside the arm's hole?
I only put it in once.
*pain in the axx to put the ball into there, couldn't be bothered to do it again...