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Old 11-09-2011, 06:28 AM
  #631  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Actually, with the kit 2000wt, it is pretty stiff, certainly stiffer than any diff with similar oil in my TC. But it seems to work ok, and could just be a volume thing.
I'd run it first and see how it feels on track.

HiH
Ed
Thanks Ed. I kept the volume reasonable, following the recommended level. It turned free when I put it together dry. I just didn't know what to expect. It is kind of fun doing something out of the ordinary for a change.

I agree with everyone who is saying run a cleaner line, don't depend on marshals and real front arm breakage is the price of bad driving decisions. But, the arms do need to be a little stronger. They shouldn't flex between my fingertips. That flex will generate unwanted driving characteristics like caster change under load.

Next question: How much rear droop should I start with? I'm guessing it should be pretty limited (2 or 3 mm) to get the car to move/slide sideways instead of body roll. I'm thinking about adding a rear sway bar.
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:29 AM
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kid TT-01, Nice pics of your car; can't wait to hear how it runs!

Does anyone know if the silver can motors will fit this car?
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
Just because you don't agree with me , doesn't mean you have to report it Dan... I should report you for harassment, and butting in on an ongoing conversation with ecomet ! If you have nothing to add, then go home...
Thank you for banning this a$$clown, seven days is a good start, maybe next time he will do himself in for good
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW
Thank you for banning this a$$clown, seven days is a good start, maybe next time he will do himself in for good
+1
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:40 AM
  #635  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
No need for those comments you are gone for 7 days
+1

Originally Posted by BP SHADOW
Thank you for banning this a$$clown, seven days is a good start, maybe next time he will do himself in for good
+2
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:37 PM
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HPI F1 tires fit on FGX rubber rims too, so we have more option for rubber tires.

Tires: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...&p_keyword=fgx

Ride


Shimizu


HPI


We are waiting for FGX rubber rims, we will post here when we get the rims.

Wheels: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...&p_keyword=fgx

HPI


Ride


** Ride and HPI rim has more offset, so it will make the car wider. **

FYI, Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:02 PM
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Jut tried to mount a Novak 21.5. It has zero adjustment. Its just too long. Same for a silver can I had laying around. So sad. The gap from the motor plate to the post is approximately 46mm. Time to look at motors.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
Jut tried to mount a Novak 21.5. It has zero adjustment. Its just too long. Same for a silver can I had laying around. So sad. The gap from the motor plate to the post is approximately 46mm. Time to look at motors.
I also had the same issue with my Novak 21.5.... all you have to do is to dremel off some of the lower left side of the upper deck, near the post.... you can see where the motor hits it... once I removed some of this plastic I could then still use that post as well as have full motor adjust ability.... It sucks you have to do this, but wasn't such a big deal to fix....
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
Jut tried to mount a Novak 21.5. It has zero adjustment. Its just too long. Same for a silver can I had laying around. So sad. The gap from the motor plate to the post is approximately 46mm. Time to look at motors.
Originally Posted by lightfoot
I also had the same issue with my Novak 21.5.... all you have to do is to dremel off some of the lower left side of the upper deck, near the post.... you can see where the motor hits it... once I removed some of this plastic I could then still use that post as well as have full motor adjust ability.... It sucks you have to do this, but wasn't such a big deal to fix....
Like I mentioned before, if your desperate, look at the X12 series, as they have a bevel on the back end of the motor which means it can get closer to the post. Also remove some material from the top deck around the post as this helps as well
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:31 PM
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Thanks to both of you. I see where it is hitting. My dremel is at the house, 9 hours away. I measured one of my 25.5 ballistics and that will fit and give a couple mil of play. The end of the outer case is right at 45mm. I suppose I could do one of their trades and pick one up. I'll check on the X12 also.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:37 PM
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Can someone take a picture of this problem? I was planning on putting a Novak motor in mine when I get it, as I can get just change the stator out. The silver can is required at one of the tracks as well.

Last edited by oceanhighz; 11-09-2011 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:45 PM
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Here is my revised FGX
Attached Thumbnails 3 racing new F1-cal_fgx.jpg  
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:58 PM
  #643  
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Max, that is a very interesting revision of the FGX! Please post more and bigger pictures with better detail.

I notice also, that besides the link front end, you replaced the upper deck and rear shock mounts. Where did those parts come from? Looks like you probably also solved the issue of the motor hitting the rear post and limiting adjustability too.

You just may have solved ALL of the FGX problems with this conversion!
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:00 PM
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The Novak SS motors are the long ones with almost no beveled edge and a full length outer case. I'll pull the 25.5 Ballistic out of my TA car and try it tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it will fit and adjust the full range. The Thunder Power Z3R-S 21.5 (TPM-540A215) looks promising as it has the smaller bearing retainer/sensor housing too. I just don't know if the motor is any good. I sent an email off to TP for an answer on the case dimensions from faceplate to end of the outer case not including the bearing housing. I'll put up the response when I get it. A-main has the X12, Ballistic and Z3R-S motors in stock.
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:04 PM
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Does anyone know how many turns the "silver can" motors are? I was assuming they were 27T and single wind. Is that true?

ABC Hobby makes a very nice sealed endbell brushed 27T motor for their cars that sell for $10. I have one of their cars with that motor and it works great!
Seems to me it would be a good F1 motor and cheap to buy as well!
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