3 racing new F1
#3931
Hi, just some ideas.
1. Tires. Not sure what you have.
2. Traction compound. Put 80% front and lessen the amount on the rear (e.g. instead of full width, maybe 80% width).
3. Less front caster for stronger turn in.
4. Less rear camber.
5. More rear droop.
6. Softer front springs.
7. If shorty pack, try moving it full back (or full front, or in between) see how it affects the turning at your track.
8. Maybe a diff that is a little loose.
Hope these help.
1. Tires. Not sure what you have.
2. Traction compound. Put 80% front and lessen the amount on the rear (e.g. instead of full width, maybe 80% width).
3. Less front caster for stronger turn in.
4. Less rear camber.
5. More rear droop.
6. Softer front springs.
7. If shorty pack, try moving it full back (or full front, or in between) see how it affects the turning at your track.
8. Maybe a diff that is a little loose.
Hope these help.
#3932
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Hi all,
Is there a optional carbone chassi that will allow bigger pinion on the motor and use the IFS? DitrMonkey you seem to have it may you tell where to by?
What is the biggest pinion you can have with all original I only could go to 17 that start to hit everywhere is it normal?
Is te IFS really the way to good the Exotec chassi and front arms are better.
What about tires and wheels which one to go
thanks.
Is there a optional carbone chassi that will allow bigger pinion on the motor and use the IFS? DitrMonkey you seem to have it may you tell where to by?
What is the biggest pinion you can have with all original I only could go to 17 that start to hit everywhere is it normal?
Is te IFS really the way to good the Exotec chassi and front arms are better.
What about tires and wheels which one to go
thanks.
#3933
Tech Rookie
Hi, just some ideas.
1. Tires. Not sure what you have.
2. Traction compound. Put 80% front and lessen the amount on the rear (e.g. instead of full width, maybe 80% width).
3. Less front caster for stronger turn in.
4. Less rear camber.
5. More rear droop.
6. Softer front springs.
7. If shorty pack, try moving it full back (or full front, or in between) see how it affects the turning at your track.
8. Maybe a diff that is a little loose.
Hope these help.
1. Tires. Not sure what you have.
2. Traction compound. Put 80% front and lessen the amount on the rear (e.g. instead of full width, maybe 80% width).
3. Less front caster for stronger turn in.
4. Less rear camber.
5. More rear droop.
6. Softer front springs.
7. If shorty pack, try moving it full back (or full front, or in between) see how it affects the turning at your track.
8. Maybe a diff that is a little loose.
Hope these help.
Tires are:
-Shimizu PS-0565 REAR (hard)
-Shimizu PS-0561 FRONT (soft)
Front springs are what IFS has on it's default.
Prepped full width front and back. Will try that 80% front and less on rear. I have no idea why that didn't come to my mind.
If my memory server me right, I changed diff and rear damper oil's around as I think that was suggested somewhere here. That might have been an error?
I don't have shorty, but I guess I could loan somebodys and try if it makes any diffrence.
Thanks for these, I'll try next weekend if there's any improvements!
#3934
1. I find the PS565 to be too soft with the kit insert, and sidewall flex is too much, slower in cornering. I changed the foam insert with a harder strip type insert (that I made myself), with about a 2mm air gap between the insert and the rim. Also sidewall stiffened by gluing cloth (wetted with superglue) on the sidewall and overlapping a portion of the rim. This also prevents the tire un-gluing from the rim. The front tires I built as per instruction.
2. My kit gear diff... I lubricated the gears and outdrives with teflon grease but did not fill it with any oil.
3. I put 3mm spacers on the upper arms (on the bulkhead side). To lessen roll.
4. High torque servo and servo saver.
5. Rear toe in block of NRR2.0* which gives around 0 ~ 0.5 deg rear toe in in actuality.
Good luck!
Last edited by rccartips; 12-21-2012 at 06:06 PM. Reason: Added item 5
#3936
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I have found from personal experience that it will be the loose nut holding the transmitter. The Exotek lower arms stopped my front end breakage issues on the standard front end. I still don't run the IFS as I have an aftermarket chassis, so I'm hoping that we'll see something soon from Exotek.
#3937
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Which then makes the car a real handfull on track......It sucks to be honest
#3939
Yep, best durability upgrade for the FGX is keeping it out of the barriers.....
#3940
Tech Adept
Is there any reason the 42mm Spec-R spring steel CVDs for the Tamiya 416 wouldn't fit the FGX?
#3941
Tech Adept