Team Losi JRXS
#4996
How does the jrxs compare to the Tc4 and fk05 on carpet?
#4997
Originally posted by Gearhead3
LOL...sounds like yoiu had a good night of racin
LOL...sounds like yoiu had a good night of racin
Will be heading south in a couple weeks to visit all the SoCal tracks and to the Reedy to compare. Is RCX worth attending?
#4999
Originally posted by tc3blue
what's a good servo saver for my airtronics 94360Z?
what's a good servo saver for my airtronics 94360Z?
#5000
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
so which one will fit with no problems with my 94360Z????????
is this OK?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS446&P=7
is this OK?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS446&P=7
Last edited by tc3blue; 05-08-2005 at 11:06 AM.
#5001
Originally posted by tc3blue
so which one will fit with no problems with my 94360Z????????
is this OK?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS446&P=7
so which one will fit with no problems with my 94360Z????????
is this OK?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS446&P=7
Bill RCX, is worth going, bring some cash, because it is a selling show, not a show that supports the local hobby shop.
#5002
Originally posted by Rocket Ronbo
pookyt
from the stock set-up, The changes have in order:
1. High diffs = a better cvd/lcd angle to the diffs/spool
2. Long rear camber = A more stable rear end, trying to get the car to steer from the front not the rear. It seemed to eliminate the rear from stepping out.
3. 2 degree rear toe bracket = I think this is stock but I tried so much I just ended up here and the rear bite and steering were the best so far.
4. Low rear roll position = When using the higher position and/or shims the car needed a short camber link to get the balance of steering and rear grip, but the rear was a little unstable.
5. 0 front pivot = Well I tried 2,1,0 and the initial steering was better with more toe-out in the pins, the middle was lacking. With 0 and the low rear roll the steering was back in the middle of the corner and the entrance was not compromised.
I guess I should of changed 5 and 6 because 6 was what I worked on before 5.
6. High front roll = To get the car to turn in and carry the arc I raised the front roll, the higher I raised it the better it got (but more than 2 thick shims and some arm and carrier plastic needs to be removed) So I stopped at 2 thick shims.
7. camber just for reference
8. Spacing the arms forward well = I tried all three ways and I liked forward better
Remember your results may vary But we got to try stuff outside the box (only way to learn)
Ron
pookyt
from the stock set-up, The changes have in order:
1. High diffs = a better cvd/lcd angle to the diffs/spool
2. Long rear camber = A more stable rear end, trying to get the car to steer from the front not the rear. It seemed to eliminate the rear from stepping out.
3. 2 degree rear toe bracket = I think this is stock but I tried so much I just ended up here and the rear bite and steering were the best so far.
4. Low rear roll position = When using the higher position and/or shims the car needed a short camber link to get the balance of steering and rear grip, but the rear was a little unstable.
5. 0 front pivot = Well I tried 2,1,0 and the initial steering was better with more toe-out in the pins, the middle was lacking. With 0 and the low rear roll the steering was back in the middle of the corner and the entrance was not compromised.
I guess I should of changed 5 and 6 because 6 was what I worked on before 5.
6. High front roll = To get the car to turn in and carry the arc I raised the front roll, the higher I raised it the better it got (but more than 2 thick shims and some arm and carrier plastic needs to be removed) So I stopped at 2 thick shims.
7. camber just for reference
8. Spacing the arms forward well = I tried all three ways and I liked forward better
Remember your results may vary But we got to try stuff outside the box (only way to learn)
Ron
#5004
Originally posted by Rocket Ronbo
pookyt
from the stock set-up, The changes have in order:
1. High diffs = a better cvd/lcd angle to the diffs/spool
2. Long rear camber = A more stable rear end, trying to get the car to steer from the front not the rear. It seemed to eliminate the rear from stepping out.
3. 2 degree rear toe bracket = I think this is stock but I tried so much I just ended up here and the rear bite and steering were the best so far.
4. Low rear roll position = When using the higher position and/or shims the car needed a short camber link to get the balance of steering and rear grip, but the rear was a little unstable.
5. 0 front pivot = Well I tried 2,1,0 and the initial steering was better with more toe-out in the pins, the middle was lacking. With 0 and the low rear roll the steering was back in the middle of the corner and the entrance was not compromised.
I guess I should of changed 5 and 6 because 6 was what I worked on before 5.
6. High front roll = To get the car to turn in and carry the arc I raised the front roll, the higher I raised it the better it got (but more than 2 thick shims and some arm and carrier plastic needs to be removed) So I stopped at 2 thick shims.
7. camber just for reference
8. Spacing the arms forward well = I tried all three ways and I liked forward better
Remember your results may vary But we got to try stuff outside the box (only way to learn)
Ron
pookyt
from the stock set-up, The changes have in order:
1. High diffs = a better cvd/lcd angle to the diffs/spool
2. Long rear camber = A more stable rear end, trying to get the car to steer from the front not the rear. It seemed to eliminate the rear from stepping out.
3. 2 degree rear toe bracket = I think this is stock but I tried so much I just ended up here and the rear bite and steering were the best so far.
4. Low rear roll position = When using the higher position and/or shims the car needed a short camber link to get the balance of steering and rear grip, but the rear was a little unstable.
5. 0 front pivot = Well I tried 2,1,0 and the initial steering was better with more toe-out in the pins, the middle was lacking. With 0 and the low rear roll the steering was back in the middle of the corner and the entrance was not compromised.
I guess I should of changed 5 and 6 because 6 was what I worked on before 5.
6. High front roll = To get the car to turn in and carry the arc I raised the front roll, the higher I raised it the better it got (but more than 2 thick shims and some arm and carrier plastic needs to be removed) So I stopped at 2 thick shims.
7. camber just for reference
8. Spacing the arms forward well = I tried all three ways and I liked forward better
Remember your results may vary But we got to try stuff outside the box (only way to learn)
Ron
Brant
#5006
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
How stiff is the JRXS when built? I havent picked one up yet....but may in the next few weeks.
EA
How stiff is the JRXS when built? I havent picked one up yet....but may in the next few weeks.
EA
Jeff
#5008
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
How stiff is the JRXS when built? I havent picked one up yet....but may in the next few weeks.
EA
How stiff is the JRXS when built? I havent picked one up yet....but may in the next few weeks.
EA
Brant
#5009
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
Ummmm..Cause a few guys told me it could "benifit" from a stiffer chassis.
The corally was pretty good yesterday...except for one corner that ate a few RF arms!! LOL
EA
Ummmm..Cause a few guys told me it could "benifit" from a stiffer chassis.
The corally was pretty good yesterday...except for one corner that ate a few RF arms!! LOL
EA
#5010
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
Ummmm..Cause a few guys told me it could "benifit" from a stiffer chassis.
The corally was pretty good yesterday...except for one corner that ate a few RF arms!! LOL
EA
Ummmm..Cause a few guys told me it could "benifit" from a stiffer chassis.
The corally was pretty good yesterday...except for one corner that ate a few RF arms!! LOL
EA
Brant