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Old 05-08-2005, 11:00 AM   #4996
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How does the jrxs compare to the Tc4 and fk05 on carpet?
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Old 05-08-2005, 11:03 AM   #4997
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gearhead3
LOL...sounds like yoiu had a good night of racin
Ripon is awesome...As is the way it is operated by Dan (owner) and Ruben (organizer). Racing doesn't get any better in my book.

Will be heading south in a couple weeks to visit all the SoCal tracks and to the Reedy to compare. Is RCX worth attending?
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Old 05-08-2005, 11:14 AM   #4998
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what's a good servo saver for my airtronics 94360Z?
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Old 05-08-2005, 11:18 AM   #4999
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Quote:
Originally posted by tc3blue
what's a good servo saver for my airtronics 94360Z?
Seems that Losi should be offering up a line of servo savers...
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Old 05-08-2005, 11:40 AM   #5000
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so which one will fit with no problems with my 94360Z????????

is this OK?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS446&P=7

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Old 05-08-2005, 02:14 PM   #5001
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Quote:
Originally posted by tc3blue
so which one will fit with no problems with my 94360Z????????

is this OK?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS446&P=7
that one will do fine for a jrxs....

Bill RCX, is worth going, bring some cash, because it is a selling show, not a show that supports the local hobby shop.
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Old 05-08-2005, 03:11 PM   #5002
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rocket Ronbo
pookyt

from the stock set-up, The changes have in order:

1. High diffs = a better cvd/lcd angle to the diffs/spool
2. Long rear camber = A more stable rear end, trying to get the car to steer from the front not the rear. It seemed to eliminate the rear from stepping out.
3. 2 degree rear toe bracket = I think this is stock but I tried so much I just ended up here and the rear bite and steering were the best so far.
4. Low rear roll position = When using the higher position and/or shims the car needed a short camber link to get the balance of steering and rear grip, but the rear was a little unstable.
5. 0 front pivot = Well I tried 2,1,0 and the initial steering was better with more toe-out in the pins, the middle was lacking. With 0 and the low rear roll the steering was back in the middle of the corner and the entrance was not compromised.

I guess I should of changed 5 and 6 because 6 was what I worked on before 5.

6. High front roll = To get the car to turn in and carry the arc I raised the front roll, the higher I raised it the better it got (but more than 2 thick shims and some arm and carrier plastic needs to be removed) So I stopped at 2 thick shims.

7. camber just for reference

8. Spacing the arms forward well = I tried all three ways and I liked forward better

Remember your results may vary But we got to try stuff outside the box (only way to learn)

Ron
Thanks Ron!
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Old 05-08-2005, 04:43 PM   #5003
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So how have you guys done with this car??? Anyone has won yet with it ?
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Old 05-08-2005, 08:45 PM   #5004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rocket Ronbo
pookyt

from the stock set-up, The changes have in order:

1. High diffs = a better cvd/lcd angle to the diffs/spool
2. Long rear camber = A more stable rear end, trying to get the car to steer from the front not the rear. It seemed to eliminate the rear from stepping out.
3. 2 degree rear toe bracket = I think this is stock but I tried so much I just ended up here and the rear bite and steering were the best so far.
4. Low rear roll position = When using the higher position and/or shims the car needed a short camber link to get the balance of steering and rear grip, but the rear was a little unstable.
5. 0 front pivot = Well I tried 2,1,0 and the initial steering was better with more toe-out in the pins, the middle was lacking. With 0 and the low rear roll the steering was back in the middle of the corner and the entrance was not compromised.

I guess I should of changed 5 and 6 because 6 was what I worked on before 5.

6. High front roll = To get the car to turn in and carry the arc I raised the front roll, the higher I raised it the better it got (but more than 2 thick shims and some arm and carrier plastic needs to be removed) So I stopped at 2 thick shims.

7. camber just for reference

8. Spacing the arms forward well = I tried all three ways and I liked forward better

Remember your results may vary But we got to try stuff outside the box (only way to learn)

Ron
Ron--What about oil and springs? What did you end up with?

Brant
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Old 05-08-2005, 09:49 PM   #5005
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How stiff is the JRXS when built? I havent picked one up yet....but may in the next few weeks.

EA
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Old 05-08-2005, 09:53 PM   #5006
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Quote:
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
How stiff is the JRXS when built? I havent picked one up yet....but may in the next few weeks.

EA
What for? haha.

Jeff
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Old 05-08-2005, 09:55 PM   #5007
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Ummmm..Cause a few guys told me it could "benifit" from a stiffer chassis.

The corally was pretty good yesterday...except for one corner that ate a few RF arms!! LOL

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Old 05-08-2005, 09:56 PM   #5008
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Quote:
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
How stiff is the JRXS when built? I havent picked one up yet....but may in the next few weeks.

EA
Its pretty stiff Eric. A lil less than a FK04 BMI set-up. Front ot back is very stiff and torsionally its med. to high stiffness.

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Old 05-08-2005, 09:58 PM   #5009
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Quote:
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
Ummmm..Cause a few guys told me it could "benifit" from a stiffer chassis.

The corally was pretty good yesterday...except for one corner that ate a few RF arms!! LOL

EA
Well, you are not too familar with right hand turns. haha. Either way...... stop hitting things. haha.
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Old 05-08-2005, 10:00 PM   #5010
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Quote:
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
Ummmm..Cause a few guys told me it could "benifit" from a stiffer chassis.

The corally was pretty good yesterday...except for one corner that ate a few RF arms!! LOL

EA
It might could use one stiffer for carpet but so far on the pavement it feels great.

Brant
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