Team Losi JRXS
#4891
Originally posted by losixxxs
still need help out with this
i am using dean battery bars and i got them angled with corally conectors on there and they are hitting the top of the chassis how can i solve this?????
and has anybody had issuse witht he front shocks hittint the diff
thanks
later
still need help out with this
i am using dean battery bars and i got them angled with corally conectors on there and they are hitting the top of the chassis how can i solve this?????
and has anybody had issuse witht he front shocks hittint the diff
thanks
later
#4893
Originally posted by cartmen34
Well, I finally caved. After months of loving the Pro 4 I'm going to try something new. I picked up a JRX-S at the LHS today...
One question though... what is everybody's opinion of the included body? Compared to other popular bodies? Good for carpet? asphalt? both? I've been running the Protoform Mazda6 and Nemesis bodies....
[Edit]:
Nevermind.. I see POOKYT already answered the question just a few posts ago.... duh! sorry!
[/Edit]
Well, I finally caved. After months of loving the Pro 4 I'm going to try something new. I picked up a JRX-S at the LHS today...
One question though... what is everybody's opinion of the included body? Compared to other popular bodies? Good for carpet? asphalt? both? I've been running the Protoform Mazda6 and Nemesis bodies....
[Edit]:
Nevermind.. I see POOKYT already answered the question just a few posts ago.... duh! sorry!
[/Edit]
#4894
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by CRASH
Yeah I followed the manual as well and had nothing but problems. Switched to the JR servo arm and problem solved.
Later,
Yeah I followed the manual as well and had nothing but problems. Switched to the JR servo arm and problem solved.
Later,
I'm using a servo saver now, so its not an issue, but before that, my 25 slipped and I couldn't get the others to fit.
#4897
When trying to run the rear camber link as short as possible A hole in the rear hub carrier and the #6 hole in the shock tower do you have to shorten the ball cups to get this to work?
Just checking before I cut the ball cups shorter.
Thanks,
Just checking before I cut the ball cups shorter.
Thanks,
#4898
Crash,
"I'm not speeding........I'm qualifying!"
I have a t-shirt that says exactly that.
"I'm not speeding........I'm qualifying!"
I have a t-shirt that says exactly that.
#4899
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by CRASH
When trying to run the rear camber link as short as possible A hole in the rear hub carrier and the #6 hole in the shock tower do you have to shorten the ball cups to get this to work?
Just checking before I cut the ball cups shorter.
Thanks,
When trying to run the rear camber link as short as possible A hole in the rear hub carrier and the #6 hole in the shock tower do you have to shorten the ball cups to get this to work?
Just checking before I cut the ball cups shorter.
Thanks,
#4900
Has anyone heard when the new battery tray to fit the 3700 cells is going to be available?
#4901
Originally posted by Shev
A couple of questions...
1. Will a normal 48 pitch spur fit on the car? I've only seen 64 pitch on the websites.
2. Is the spur different to ordinary spurs?
I'm keen to get one of these after my xxx-s, not happy with the pro 4 at the moment. Go the Losi power!
Cheers
A couple of questions...
1. Will a normal 48 pitch spur fit on the car? I've only seen 64 pitch on the websites.
2. Is the spur different to ordinary spurs?
I'm keen to get one of these after my xxx-s, not happy with the pro 4 at the moment. Go the Losi power!
Cheers
#4902
Originally posted by CRASH
When trying to run the rear camber link as short as possible A hole in the rear hub carrier and the #6 hole in the shock tower do you have to shorten the ball cups to get this to work?
Just checking before I cut the ball cups shorter.
Thanks,
When trying to run the rear camber link as short as possible A hole in the rear hub carrier and the #6 hole in the shock tower do you have to shorten the ball cups to get this to work?
Just checking before I cut the ball cups shorter.
Thanks,
#4903
Originally posted by mudpuppy
Has anyone heard when the new battery tray to fit the 3700 cells is going to be available?
Has anyone heard when the new battery tray to fit the 3700 cells is going to be available?
#4904
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
My JRX-S arrived today. First one in Australia as far as I'm aware.
Started putting it together tonight, goes together far better than the old XXX-S G+ did. Am very pleased so far with the only problem being not lining up the holes to slot the small shaft through for the spur gear.
Some superb features, belt / diff height adjustment really caught my eye straight away.
Doesn't look asif I'll be braking my outdrives in a big hurry either, beefy as!!!
Just wondering though, who's broken what at this stage? Are the front arm's a weak point? The rest of the car looks very strong and am wondering if this is going to potentially be a minor downfall.
Tim
Started putting it together tonight, goes together far better than the old XXX-S G+ did. Am very pleased so far with the only problem being not lining up the holes to slot the small shaft through for the spur gear.
Some superb features, belt / diff height adjustment really caught my eye straight away.
Doesn't look asif I'll be braking my outdrives in a big hurry either, beefy as!!!
Just wondering though, who's broken what at this stage? Are the front arm's a weak point? The rest of the car looks very strong and am wondering if this is going to potentially be a minor downfall.
Tim
#4905
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
A page or so back I posted about uneven rear toe-in on my JRXS...
Todd suggested that I check that the inner hinge pin mounts were straight, as far as I can tell they are.
rayhuang suggested holding the arm tightly as I tighten the screws for the hinge pin mounts, I tried this, but saw no change.
I reverted to an old trick I used with the XXX-S, where I reamed the outer hinge pin hole in the hub at an angle so that the setscrew when tightened will hold the hub at the correct angle.
Now my rear toe looks even...
I guess what I'm asking now is what is the best method to get even rear toe... Should I ream the hubs or just use different hubs on each side? I have no issue with either method, I just want to know what the "right" way is to get even rear toe.
I'd even be willing at this point to fedex the car to Losi, maybe I'm just doing something wrong and someone there can let me know... the fact that no one else has mentioned this makes me think that it almost has to be something I'm doing...
Please don't take this as a complaint about the car... I'm very happy with the build so far and I'm really looking forward to its first time out... hopefully this weekend.
Thanks in advance... David
Todd suggested that I check that the inner hinge pin mounts were straight, as far as I can tell they are.
rayhuang suggested holding the arm tightly as I tighten the screws for the hinge pin mounts, I tried this, but saw no change.
I reverted to an old trick I used with the XXX-S, where I reamed the outer hinge pin hole in the hub at an angle so that the setscrew when tightened will hold the hub at the correct angle.
Now my rear toe looks even...
I guess what I'm asking now is what is the best method to get even rear toe... Should I ream the hubs or just use different hubs on each side? I have no issue with either method, I just want to know what the "right" way is to get even rear toe.
I'd even be willing at this point to fedex the car to Losi, maybe I'm just doing something wrong and someone there can let me know... the fact that no one else has mentioned this makes me think that it almost has to be something I'm doing...
Please don't take this as a complaint about the car... I'm very happy with the build so far and I'm really looking forward to its first time out... hopefully this weekend.
Thanks in advance... David