svines1972

iTrader: (26)

I sent a PM to Steve on Saturday and have not received a response, maybe someone else can give me some advice on this. I am in the process of installing both in my TC5R. The instructions and all the picks I have seen up to now show holes in the motor tabs to insert the wires into and then solder. The motor I have does not have holes in the tabs. Is this someting new? Or is this standard? If it is standard how/where do you recommend attaching them? The tabs have a lip on them, should I attach them to the lip or bend the wire around and solder to the outside flat edge of the tab? I also noticed there is plastic on the inner part of the tabs.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I usually solder them to the lip, but anywhere on the tab that gives you good contact area will do. Do whatever works best for your layout.

I don't think any Novak motors have the holes.

Toh WL

iTrader: (6)

I had my rotor replaced with Sintered rotor #5909 & followed the instructions given below:

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/h...tor/index.html

I notice the magnetic is very strong in this new rotor. Will I get more torque or my car will run much faster?

s13evo

iTrader: (8)

Hi Steve, need help installing the Novak 2 cell smart stop blue LED light.
is the red wire soppose to be on the outside or the black wire? or do i just match up the red wire with the red wire on the back of the smartstop chip and black wire to the black wire back of the chip?

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

I raised this question on some other forums. maybe I should have just asked it here, so I will now.

Both the XBR and Havoc have the same brushless motor limit of 8.5 turns. This would imply to me that the internals (FETs & stuff) are similar.

Why is the Havoc limited to a 27 turn (540 size) motor in brushed mode while the XBR was listed as "no motor limit" in brushed mode?

VenturaDC

iTrader: (32)

Around what FDR should i shoot for with a novak 4.5 for Camarillo and BCR?

thanks!

crazydave

iTrader: (48)

Hi Steve,

Would this explain why my SS GTB works intermittently? I use a JR 40mhz Synth radio. Can the GTB be damaged using a non 2.4ghz radio? Cheers

Steve Weiss

Hi Guys,

First off, sorry about the delayed responses...been really sick for a few weeks now...just starting to feel better.

If I miss any questions from PM or on here PLEASE feel free to repost.

Ok, you were having runtime/heating problems right...? Sounds like everything is about right... how big is your track? Do you have the timing on your motor turned up at all...?

Jay,

The minimum drive shouldn't effect the top end power at all.... but I think I can understand why you're seeing that effect... Sometimes when a battery is loaded hard it will not recover to full voltage for a few seconds... if your minimum drive is set higher, it can "hit" the battery harder initially...causing the recovery time to be longer...which could give the appearance of less top end speed.

Yeahyeah,

I would put the differences you're seeing on the track down to the batteries... brushless motors can be pretty sensitive to minor fluctuations in battery performance. If your pack is not charged all the way it can show on the track. If your pack is peaking off at 8.15 V more than likely the charger is monitoring both cells in the pack...and one might be at 4.2... The other then could be much lower...resulting in the 8.15 total voltage... I would be sure to balance your packs more and maybe cycle the packs to make sure they're not going bad on you.

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you...been sick and not really up for spending lots of time on the PC.

Simply solder the motor wires to the tops of the tabs. This new style motor tab has been standard for quite a while now... We have found that most people have an easier time soldering to them and they give better resistance than the old PCB style with holes in them.


Toh,

You should definately notice more torque... but you should gear up two teeth on the pinion gear to "get back" top speed you had with your bonded rotor.

Overall motor performance should be much better now though.


The black wire should be on the outside if I remember correctly.

The internals are very similar, we recommended the 27 turn motor only for saftey reasons.


With a lipo or 6 cell battery pack around 9.5.

Dave,

40mhz radios tend to output much less powerful signals than their 75/27 mhz brothers due to regulational requirements. If the outgoing signal is weaker, it will be much more susceptible to glitching and radio interferance than 27/75 or 2.4 Ghz.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Hey SuperSteve,

Firstly, Happy Holidays!!

Having a problem with my GTB (LiPo, non SS). Powered up it will run the motor at full throttle but cuts out every couple seconds until after 5-6 seconds it shuts down. Will usually start up again (though for shorter time) if I wait several seconds then hit the throttle again. Neither the motor nor the esc exhibit any heat. This was tested with 2 different motors (both Novak 13.5's).

Ideas?

Thanks,

Scottrik

Steve Weiss

It sort of sounds like you have the lipo cut off turned on... and that the ESC is going into saftey cut off.

Be sure that the batteries are fully charged.

You might want to try turning the shut off off just to confirm one way or the other if that's what's causing the problem.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

DING!!

Last time it was used was in a LiPo application. Was installing it in my WGT car on 4-cell. Batteries were DEFINITELY fully charged, but significantly below the cut-off value for voltage in a LiPo application.

"Problem" solved...whew!

Many thanks Steve, and Happy New Year to you!

Scottrik

crafty63

Steve,
I have been using a GTB 4 cell with the 13.5 BL motor...changed to a 17.5. When I hooked everything up, the LED lights on the ESC don't come on and no motor response. Tried to one step program with no response either. Everything else works fine, e.g., steering servo, transponder and ESC on/off switch. Any thoughts?
Thanks

jbmx4life

iTrader: (2)

Hi Steve,

Would just like to ask you a questions about gearing the 17.5SS Pro. I am running an Xray T2 '008 (1.7 IR) with an LRP Sphere Comp TC ESC and run @ Trackside (Milwaukee, WI) I checked the Novak site and it says to start out at a 3.5 FDR, but I was running today with about a 4.0 ratio and the motor temped out at about 185F after a 5 min heat race. I am getting pulled pretty hard down the straight but with the temp I know that I can't gear up any more. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jeremy

loopedout

iTrader: (49)

Ok, you were having runtime/heating problems right...? Sounds like everything is about right... how big is your track? Do you have the timing on your motor turned up at all...?


runtime is still touchy as in transponder stops counting with about 3 laps to go sometimes, thats using fresh Trinity IB4600 with 480 sec at 35 amp numbers, heating issue is gone with using the GTB, track is a 170' tri oval, timing is at factory setting

Steve Weiss

It seems very strange that the ESC is not responding now that the motor has changed... have you tried putting the 13.5 back in just to check it? Another option would be to see if another ESC will work ok with that particular 17.5 you are having trouble with... this way you can see what's good and what's bad. Just make sure the sensor harness wires are in good order and in the right sequence.

What "punch" setting are you using with your ESC? That esc adds more and more timing with the "punch" settings...so using high settings like 6-8 can sometimes result in higher temperatures.

Try using a lower "punch" setting and see what happens. Hopefully the rotor hasn't been damaged due to the timing/current... if it has it might have been weakened and will not perform as well as a rotor that was never overheated.

Is with 4 cell? The voltage in the cells can drop out breifly durring accelleration and sometimes the voltage does not recover quickly... the transponders are pretty sensitive to this sort of voltage drop out... we make a transponder voltage booster for just this type of situation... check out our website for more information on it!