R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-15-2008, 09:58 AM   #6631
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Fontana,CA
Posts: 1,005
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default GTB & 13.5 SS

I sent a PM to Steve on Saturday and have not received a response, maybe someone else can give me some advice on this. I am in the process of installing both in my TC5R. The instructions and all the picks I have seen up to now show holes in the motor tabs to insert the wires into and then solder. The motor I have does not have holes in the tabs. Is this someting new? Or is this standard? If it is standard how/where do you recommend attaching them? The tabs have a lip on them, should I attach them to the lip or bend the wire around and solder to the outside flat edge of the tab? I also noticed there is plastic on the inner part of the tabs.
svines1972 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2008, 10:02 AM   #6632
Tech Elite
 
reenmachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Studio City, CA
Posts: 2,539
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I sent a PM to Steve on Saturday and have not received a response, maybe someone else can give me some advice on this. I am in the process of installing both in my TC5R. The instructions and all the picks I have seen up to now show holes in the motor tabs to insert the wires into and then solder. The motor I have does not have holes in the tabs. Is this someting new? Or is this standard? If it is standard how/where do you recommend attaching them? The tabs have a lip on them, should I attach them to the lip or bend the wire around and solder to the outside flat edge of the tab? I also noticed there is plastic on the inner part of the tabs.
I usually solder them to the lip, but anywhere on the tab that gives you good contact area will do. Do whatever works best for your layout.

I don't think any Novak motors have the holes.
__________________
Pete Waydo
2010 Big Fat Turkey Race Mini Cooper AAA Main Champion
*** currently in stasis ***
reenmachine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2008, 05:27 AM   #6633
Tech Elite
 
Toh WL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Setapak
Posts: 3,567
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
If it's a black rotor that is 14 mm in diameter it is one of the original bonded rotors... I would definately recommend replacing the rotor with a sintered rotor!
I had my rotor replaced with Sintered rotor #5909 & followed the instructions given below:

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/h...tor/index.html

I notice the magnetic is very strong in this new rotor. Will I get more torque or my car will run much faster?
Toh WL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2008, 08:35 AM   #6634
Tech Regular
 
s13evo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 361
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Hi Steve, need help installing the Novak 2 cell smart stop blue LED light.
is the red wire soppose to be on the outside or the black wire? or do i just match up the red wire with the red wire on the back of the smartstop chip and black wire to the black wire back of the chip?
s13evo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2008, 08:56 AM   #6635
Tech Elite
 
ta_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,365
Trader Rating: 151 (100%+)
Default XBR vs Havoc

I raised this question on some other forums. maybe I should have just asked it here, so I will now.

Both the XBR and Havoc have the same brushless motor limit of 8.5 turns. This would imply to me that the internals (FETs & stuff) are similar.

Why is the Havoc limited to a 27 turn (540 size) motor in brushed mode while the XBR was listed as "no motor limit" in brushed mode?
ta_man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2008, 09:33 PM   #6636
Tech Master
 
VenturaDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ventura, SoCal
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Around what FDR should i shoot for with a novak 4.5 for Camarillo and BCR?

thanks!
__________________
Dustin Colt45 Aguirre
Kyosho RB6--Futaba--HW--Shuurspeed 17.5
Kyosho SCR--Hitec--Lrp--Yeah 13.5
Durango Dex210--Futaba--Trakpower--Tacon 8.5
VenturaDC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2008, 12:13 AM   #6637
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Victoria
Posts: 1,949
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Catalyst is right. You SHOULD NOT use an AM, FM, or PCM radio system with a SPREAD SPECTRUM GTB.

You should only use 2.4 Ghz systems with the SPREAD SPECTRUM GTB.

Both the Spread Spectrum and Standard 6 cell GTB's we have been shipping for well over a year now have built in lipo cut off circuitry.
Hi Steve,

Would this explain why my SS GTB works intermittently? I use a JR 40mhz Synth radio. Can the GTB be damaged using a non 2.4ghz radio? Cheers
crazydave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2008, 09:48 AM   #6638
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Hi Guys,

First off, sorry about the delayed responses...been really sick for a few weeks now...just starting to feel better.

If I miss any questions from PM or on here PLEASE feel free to repost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by loopedout View Post
Tc5 lto. Novak 3.5. Ib shv4600. 10.9 fdr
Ok, you were having runtime/heating problems right...? Sounds like everything is about right... how big is your track? Do you have the timing on your motor turned up at all...?

Quote:
Originally Posted by |JayFlores|2 View Post
Steve, how does the min. drive settings in the GTB work?

All i can say about it is when i set the value higher i gain initial power but the top end power suffers and vice-versa.

Jay,

The minimum drive shouldn't effect the top end power at all.... but I think I can understand why you're seeing that effect... Sometimes when a battery is loaded hard it will not recover to full voltage for a few seconds... if your minimum drive is set higher, it can "hit" the battery harder initially...causing the recovery time to be longer...which could give the appearance of less top end speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahyeah View Post
Hi Steve,

Is it possible for a motor to perform differently if ran several times a day eg 5 times

I run a 13.5 pro and lipos

For no apparent reason in any one of the 5 rounds my car is slower in a straight line.Basically unpredictable. I run the same gear ratio in all 5 races.
Using rubber tyres. (lets assume my car is well maintained and doesnt have any binding or poorly prepared issues)

Also how can I tell if my lipo charger is peaking correctly
Should my lipo pack always peak at 8.4v
I have seen my packs cut off at say 8.15v at times and I hit repeak then my charger may put few milliamps in then cutoffs after few seconds so its stating the fact that it assumes the pack has peaked correctly.

I do balance charge once a week night before I race


Your thoughts?

Thanks
Yeahyeah,

I would put the differences you're seeing on the track down to the batteries... brushless motors can be pretty sensitive to minor fluctuations in battery performance. If your pack is not charged all the way it can show on the track. If your pack is peaking off at 8.15 V more than likely the charger is monitoring both cells in the pack...and one might be at 4.2... The other then could be much lower...resulting in the 8.15 total voltage... I would be sure to balance your packs more and maybe cycle the packs to make sure they're not going bad on you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I sent a PM to Steve on Saturday and have not received a response, maybe someone else can give me some advice on this. I am in the process of installing both in my TC5R. The instructions and all the picks I have seen up to now show holes in the motor tabs to insert the wires into and then solder. The motor I have does not have holes in the tabs. Is this someting new? Or is this standard? If it is standard how/where do you recommend attaching them? The tabs have a lip on them, should I attach them to the lip or bend the wire around and solder to the outside flat edge of the tab? I also noticed there is plastic on the inner part of the tabs.
Sorry about the delay in getting back to you...been sick and not really up for spending lots of time on the PC.

Simply solder the motor wires to the tops of the tabs. This new style motor tab has been standard for quite a while now... We have found that most people have an easier time soldering to them and they give better resistance than the old PCB style with holes in them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Toh WL View Post
I had my rotor replaced with Sintered rotor #5909 & followed the instructions given below:

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/h...tor/index.html

I notice the magnetic is very strong in this new rotor. Will I get more torque or my car will run much faster?
Toh,

You should definately notice more torque... but you should gear up two teeth on the pinion gear to "get back" top speed you had with your bonded rotor.

Overall motor performance should be much better now though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by s13evo View Post
Hi Steve, need help installing the Novak 2 cell smart stop blue LED light.
is the red wire soppose to be on the outside or the black wire? or do i just match up the red wire with the red wire on the back of the smartstop chip and black wire to the black wire back of the chip?

The black wire should be on the outside if I remember correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
I raised this question on some other forums. maybe I should have just asked it here, so I will now.

Both the XBR and Havoc have the same brushless motor limit of 8.5 turns. This would imply to me that the internals (FETs & stuff) are similar.

Why is the Havoc limited to a 27 turn (540 size) motor in brushed mode while the XBR was listed as "no motor limit" in brushed mode?
The internals are very similar, we recommended the 27 turn motor only for saftey reasons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
Around what FDR should i shoot for with a novak 4.5 for Camarillo and BCR?


thanks!

With a lipo or 6 cell battery pack around 9.5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydave View Post
Hi Steve,

Would this explain why my SS GTB works intermittently? I use a JR 40mhz Synth radio. Can the GTB be damaged using a non 2.4ghz radio? Cheers
Dave,

40mhz radios tend to output much less powerful signals than their 75/27 mhz brothers due to regulational requirements. If the outgoing signal is weaker, it will be much more susceptible to glitching and radio interferance than 27/75 or 2.4 Ghz.
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 04:07 PM   #6639
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,212
Trader Rating: 245 (100%+)
Default

Hey SuperSteve,

Firstly, Happy Holidays!!

Having a problem with my GTB (LiPo, non SS). Powered up it will run the motor at full throttle but cuts out every couple seconds until after 5-6 seconds it shuts down. Will usually start up again (though for shorter time) if I wait several seconds then hit the throttle again. Neither the motor nor the esc exhibit any heat. This was tested with 2 different motors (both Novak 13.5's).

Ideas?

Thanks,

Scottrik
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2008, 09:18 AM   #6640
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

It sort of sounds like you have the lipo cut off turned on... and that the ESC is going into saftey cut off.

Be sure that the batteries are fully charged.

You might want to try turning the shut off off just to confirm one way or the other if that's what's causing the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Hey SuperSteve,

Firstly, Happy Holidays!!

Having a problem with my GTB (LiPo, non SS). Powered up it will run the motor at full throttle but cuts out every couple seconds until after 5-6 seconds it shuts down. Will usually start up again (though for shorter time) if I wait several seconds then hit the throttle again. Neither the motor nor the esc exhibit any heat. This was tested with 2 different motors (both Novak 13.5's).

Ideas?

Thanks,

Scottrik
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2008, 11:43 PM   #6641
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,212
Trader Rating: 245 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
It sort of sounds like you have the lipo cut off turned on... and that the ESC is going into saftey cut off.

Be sure that the batteries are fully charged.

You might want to try turning the shut off off just to confirm one way or the other if that's what's causing the problem.
DING!!

Last time it was used was in a LiPo application. Was installing it in my WGT car on 4-cell. Batteries were DEFINITELY fully charged, but significantly below the cut-off value for voltage in a LiPo application.

"Problem" solved...whew!

Many thanks Steve, and Happy New Year to you!

Scottrik
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2009, 02:13 PM   #6642
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: North Laurel, MD USA
Posts: 14
Default GTB 4 cell problem

Steve,
I have been using a GTB 4 cell with the 13.5 BL motor...changed to a 17.5. When I hooked everything up, the LED lights on the ESC don't come on and no motor response. Tried to one step program with no response either. Everything else works fine, e.g., steering servo, transponder and ESC on/off switch. Any thoughts?
Thanks
crafty63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2009, 08:20 PM   #6643
Tech Adept
 
jbmx4life's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 137
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jbmx4life Send a message via MSN to jbmx4life Send a message via Yahoo to jbmx4life
Default

Hi Steve,

Would just like to ask you a questions about gearing the 17.5SS Pro. I am running an Xray T2 '008 (1.7 IR) with an LRP Sphere Comp TC ESC and run @ Trackside (Milwaukee, WI) I checked the Novak site and it says to start out at a 3.5 FDR, but I was running today with about a 4.0 ratio and the motor temped out at about 185F after a 5 min heat race. I am getting pulled pretty hard down the straight but with the temp I know that I can't gear up any more. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jeremy
jbmx4life is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2009, 11:51 PM   #6644
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,767
Trader Rating: 49 (95%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to loopedout
Default

Ok, you were having runtime/heating problems right...? Sounds like everything is about right... how big is your track? Do you have the timing on your motor turned up at all...?


runtime is still touchy as in transponder stops counting with about 3 laps to go sometimes, thats using fresh Trinity IB4600 with 480 sec at 35 amp numbers, heating issue is gone with using the GTB, track is a 170' tri oval, timing is at factory setting
loopedout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2009, 06:59 PM   #6645
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crafty63 View Post
Steve,
I have been using a GTB 4 cell with the 13.5 BL motor...changed to a 17.5. When I hooked everything up, the LED lights on the ESC don't come on and no motor response. Tried to one step program with no response either. Everything else works fine, e.g., steering servo, transponder and ESC on/off switch. Any thoughts?
Thanks
It seems very strange that the ESC is not responding now that the motor has changed... have you tried putting the 13.5 back in just to check it? Another option would be to see if another ESC will work ok with that particular 17.5 you are having trouble with... this way you can see what's good and what's bad. Just make sure the sensor harness wires are in good order and in the right sequence.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbmx4life View Post
Hi Steve,

Would just like to ask you a questions about gearing the 17.5SS Pro. I am running an Xray T2 '008 (1.7 IR) with an LRP Sphere Comp TC ESC and run @ Trackside (Milwaukee, WI) I checked the Novak site and it says to start out at a 3.5 FDR, but I was running today with about a 4.0 ratio and the motor temped out at about 185F after a 5 min heat race. I am getting pulled pretty hard down the straight but with the temp I know that I can't gear up any more. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jeremy
What "punch" setting are you using with your ESC? That esc adds more and more timing with the "punch" settings...so using high settings like 6-8 can sometimes result in higher temperatures.

Try using a lower "punch" setting and see what happens. Hopefully the rotor hasn't been damaged due to the timing/current... if it has it might have been weakened and will not perform as well as a rotor that was never overheated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by loopedout View Post
Ok, you were having runtime/heating problems right...? Sounds like everything is about right... how big is your track? Do you have the timing on your motor turned up at all...?


runtime is still touchy as in transponder stops counting with about 3 laps to go sometimes, thats using fresh Trinity IB4600 with 480 sec at 35 amp numbers, heating issue is gone with using the GTB, track is a 170' tri oval, timing is at factory setting
Is with 4 cell? The voltage in the cells can drop out breifly durring accelleration and sometimes the voltage does not recover quickly... the transponders are pretty sensitive to this sort of voltage drop out... we make a transponder voltage booster for just this type of situation... check out our website for more information on it!
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
STUFF FOR SALE """"LQQK """" EZRC R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 03-13-2007 07:20 PM
"""NEW""" Collari .21 3 port buggy motor lc21-b3 goneRVing R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 12-20-2006 06:25 PM
STUFF FOR SALE """"LQQK """" EZRC R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 11 10-22-2006 09:49 PM
""" XRAY FK05 """ excellent cond/super clean/stock evostyle R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-29-2006 10:04 PM
Let's send Steve Weiss (Evicerator) to Cleveland!!! TeamButter Electric On-Road 8 11-02-2004 11:32 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:10 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net