Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
#6406
Hi Steve, question for you, like you could'nt have guessed that. Tonight I was setting up my touring car with the GTB from one of my trucks, it is the spread spektrum, lipo cuttoff one. I had everything set and powered up the system, for some reason there were no lights on the side of the unit and the esc got hot real quick. So I unhooked the motor, both the sensor harnes and the three wires and powered up the esc again to do the one-touch program just in case for some reason it had switched to brushed mode (no reason for that to happen I have'nt run a brushed motor in two yrs). I had just finished the one-touch progam when poof out came the magic smoke. I'll package it up and send it in tomorrow but I don't have the receipt, checked already, any idea on what might have happened? And any thoughts on how much it'll cost? I'm also thinking of sending in the motor to be checked just in case that was the problem.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
#6407
From one of Steve's other post in this thread:
In regards to temping the motor I usually do one of a number of things:
Temp the black end cap/end screw... while this might not be the absolute hottest part of the motor it is often times very consistant.
The purple/black/blue band on the motor is generally another decent spot to temp as well. Like some mentioned if the ring is loose then the readings you will get will not be consistant.
Someone mentioned putting sharpie on your motor endbell to give it some color for the IR temp guages to work properly... this or a small sticker will work to get a better readings as well.
Temp the black end cap/end screw... while this might not be the absolute hottest part of the motor it is often times very consistant.
The purple/black/blue band on the motor is generally another decent spot to temp as well. Like some mentioned if the ring is loose then the readings you will get will not be consistant.
Someone mentioned putting sharpie on your motor endbell to give it some color for the IR temp guages to work properly... this or a small sticker will work to get a better readings as well.
#6408
The Evicerator
Hey Chris,
It's hard to say what happened to your GTB... there's always a chance that if you did some soldering or wiring something might have been misconnected or inadvertantly shorted.
Also, if you had a battery connected while the ESC is off and you turned the wheels of your car you might have caused some damage as well...we have a new input harness and the new ESCs have a revision to protect against this type of damage.
If the ESC is out of warrantee the replacement cost is $69 for the lipo GTB.
Sending the motor in for a checkup is always good too!
It's hard to say what happened to your GTB... there's always a chance that if you did some soldering or wiring something might have been misconnected or inadvertantly shorted.
Also, if you had a battery connected while the ESC is off and you turned the wheels of your car you might have caused some damage as well...we have a new input harness and the new ESCs have a revision to protect against this type of damage.
If the ESC is out of warrantee the replacement cost is $69 for the lipo GTB.
Sending the motor in for a checkup is always good too!
Hi Steve, question for you, like you could'nt have guessed that. Tonight I was setting up my touring car with the GTB from one of my trucks, it is the spread spektrum, lipo cuttoff one. I had everything set and powered up the system, for some reason there were no lights on the side of the unit and the esc got hot real quick. So I unhooked the motor, both the sensor harnes and the three wires and powered up the esc again to do the one-touch program just in case for some reason it had switched to brushed mode (no reason for that to happen I have'nt run a brushed motor in two yrs). I had just finished the one-touch progam when poof out came the magic smoke. I'll package it up and send it in tomorrow but I don't have the receipt, checked already, any idea on what might have happened? And any thoughts on how much it'll cost? I'm also thinking of sending in the motor to be checked just in case that was the problem.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
#6409
Hey Chris,
It's hard to say what happened to your GTB... there's always a chance that if you did some soldering or wiring something might have been misconnected or inadvertantly shorted.
Also, if you had a battery connected while the ESC is off and you turned the wheels of your car you might have caused some damage as well...we have a new input harness and the new ESCs have a revision to protect against this type of damage.
If the ESC is out of warrantee the replacement cost is $69 for the lipo GTB.
Sending the motor in for a checkup is always good too!
It's hard to say what happened to your GTB... there's always a chance that if you did some soldering or wiring something might have been misconnected or inadvertantly shorted.
Also, if you had a battery connected while the ESC is off and you turned the wheels of your car you might have caused some damage as well...we have a new input harness and the new ESCs have a revision to protect against this type of damage.
If the ESC is out of warrantee the replacement cost is $69 for the lipo GTB.
Sending the motor in for a checkup is always good too!
#6411
The Evicerator
Jon,
Internally everything is identical!
The only differences are the gold sleeve, bonded rotor, small-bearing, and ribbed endbells. Change out the endbell and the rotor and you've basically got yourself a Pro!
Internally everything is identical!
The only differences are the gold sleeve, bonded rotor, small-bearing, and ribbed endbells. Change out the endbell and the rotor and you've basically got yourself a Pro!
#6412
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Hey Steve just a question regards rollout for a 17.5. I usually run a monster stock around 33mm rollout for a large track. Whats a good starting point for my 17.5 with heatsink? Some of the other 17.5's LRP are around 58mm rollout, but I want to be conservative to start with and work my way up without doing damage. I know to gear by temp but want to check a good start point.
Thanks Drew
Thanks Drew
#6413
The Evicerator
Hey Drew,
Sorry about the delay in answering you!
I really don't have any experience or feedback from people running 17.5 on asphalt with foam tires ( I assume this is what you are running ... I know foam tires on asphalt is pretty popular down under)
But when I was crunching some numbers I thought I'd start out around 51 mm rollout... but it's hard to say how that stacks up compared to what the LRPs are running... I know some of those guys are running 14 mm sintered rotors in their motors...and that is going to dramatically change the gearing that the motor needs.
I would recommend running a shorter ratio and seeing how it fares for a few laps...bring it in, check the temp, and gear up a couple teeth a time.
Sorry about the delay in answering you!
I really don't have any experience or feedback from people running 17.5 on asphalt with foam tires ( I assume this is what you are running ... I know foam tires on asphalt is pretty popular down under)
But when I was crunching some numbers I thought I'd start out around 51 mm rollout... but it's hard to say how that stacks up compared to what the LRPs are running... I know some of those guys are running 14 mm sintered rotors in their motors...and that is going to dramatically change the gearing that the motor needs.
I would recommend running a shorter ratio and seeing how it fares for a few laps...bring it in, check the temp, and gear up a couple teeth a time.
#6415
Hi Steve,
We're starting to test 13.5 brushless as an option to run together with 19turn brushed as per the current ROAR rules. Have you done this kind of head to head testing with the 13.5SS motors and 19turn brushed motors ? How close did you get the times ? What ended up quicker and by how much ?
We're starting to test 13.5 brushless as an option to run together with 19turn brushed as per the current ROAR rules. Have you done this kind of head to head testing with the 13.5SS motors and 19turn brushed motors ? How close did you get the times ? What ended up quicker and by how much ?
#6416
The Evicerator
Skitee,
Most people will say that the 13.5 brushless will have more torque/acceleration than the brushed 19T... but the brushed 19T might have more "free flowing rpm" ... they both get around the track a little differently from one another...but usually they are pretty close on times
Most people will say that the 13.5 brushless will have more torque/acceleration than the brushed 19T... but the brushed 19T might have more "free flowing rpm" ... they both get around the track a little differently from one another...but usually they are pretty close on times
Hi Steve,
We're starting to test 13.5 brushless as an option to run together with 19turn brushed as per the current ROAR rules. Have you done this kind of head to head testing with the 13.5SS motors and 19turn brushed motors ? How close did you get the times ? What ended up quicker and by how much ?
We're starting to test 13.5 brushless as an option to run together with 19turn brushed as per the current ROAR rules. Have you done this kind of head to head testing with the 13.5SS motors and 19turn brushed motors ? How close did you get the times ? What ended up quicker and by how much ?
#6417
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Skitee,
Most people will say that the 13.5 brushless will have more torque/acceleration than the brushed 19T... but the brushed 19T might have more "free flowing rpm" ... they both get around the track a little differently from one another...but usually they are pretty close on times
Most people will say that the 13.5 brushless will have more torque/acceleration than the brushed 19T... but the brushed 19T might have more "free flowing rpm" ... they both get around the track a little differently from one another...but usually they are pretty close on times
#6418
The Evicerator
TTT
#6420
The Evicerator
I just don't give up!