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Old 08-05-2008, 10:47 PM   #6406
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Hi Steve, question for you, like you could'nt have guessed that. Tonight I was setting up my touring car with the GTB from one of my trucks, it is the spread spektrum, lipo cuttoff one. I had everything set and powered up the system, for some reason there were no lights on the side of the unit and the esc got hot real quick. So I unhooked the motor, both the sensor harnes and the three wires and powered up the esc again to do the one-touch program just in case for some reason it had switched to brushed mode (no reason for that to happen I have'nt run a brushed motor in two yrs). I had just finished the one-touch progam when poof out came the magic smoke. I'll package it up and send it in tomorrow but I don't have the receipt, checked already, any idea on what might have happened? And any thoughts on how much it'll cost? I'm also thinking of sending in the motor to be checked just in case that was the problem.

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Old 08-05-2008, 10:55 PM   #6407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swamp Rat View Post
Where should the Temp be taken ????

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From one of Steve's other post in this thread:


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In regards to temping the motor I usually do one of a number of things:

Temp the black end cap/end screw... while this might not be the absolute hottest part of the motor it is often times very consistant.

The purple/black/blue band on the motor is generally another decent spot to temp as well. Like some mentioned if the ring is loose then the readings you will get will not be consistant.

Someone mentioned putting sharpie on your motor endbell to give it some color for the IR temp guages to work properly... this or a small sticker will work to get a better readings as well.
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:13 PM   #6408
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Hey Chris,

It's hard to say what happened to your GTB... there's always a chance that if you did some soldering or wiring something might have been misconnected or inadvertantly shorted.

Also, if you had a battery connected while the ESC is off and you turned the wheels of your car you might have caused some damage as well...we have a new input harness and the new ESCs have a revision to protect against this type of damage.

If the ESC is out of warrantee the replacement cost is $69 for the lipo GTB.

Sending the motor in for a checkup is always good too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Hi Steve, question for you, like you could'nt have guessed that. Tonight I was setting up my touring car with the GTB from one of my trucks, it is the spread spektrum, lipo cuttoff one. I had everything set and powered up the system, for some reason there were no lights on the side of the unit and the esc got hot real quick. So I unhooked the motor, both the sensor harnes and the three wires and powered up the esc again to do the one-touch program just in case for some reason it had switched to brushed mode (no reason for that to happen I have'nt run a brushed motor in two yrs). I had just finished the one-touch progam when poof out came the magic smoke. I'll package it up and send it in tomorrow but I don't have the receipt, checked already, any idea on what might have happened? And any thoughts on how much it'll cost? I'm also thinking of sending in the motor to be checked just in case that was the problem.

Thanks
Chris
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:17 PM   #6409
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Hey Chris,

It's hard to say what happened to your GTB... there's always a chance that if you did some soldering or wiring something might have been misconnected or inadvertantly shorted.

Also, if you had a battery connected while the ESC is off and you turned the wheels of your car you might have caused some damage as well...we have a new input harness and the new ESCs have a revision to protect against this type of damage.

If the ESC is out of warrantee the replacement cost is $69 for the lipo GTB.

Sending the motor in for a checkup is always good too!
Nope I allways connect the battery last right before I turn on the system so thats not it. I went back through my steps to see if I could find anyting, but I'm sure I did everything right.
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:20 AM   #6410
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Hi Steve,

I have a ex13.5 motor updated with sintered rotor. I know the EX isn't listed on the roar aprouved motor but internally, is that motor the same as an 13.5ss?

Thanks in advance!

Jon
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:40 AM   #6411
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Jon,

Internally everything is identical!

The only differences are the gold sleeve, bonded rotor, small-bearing, and ribbed endbells. Change out the endbell and the rotor and you've basically got yourself a Pro!

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Hi Steve,

I have a ex13.5 motor updated with sintered rotor. I know the EX isn't listed on the roar aprouved motor but internally, is that motor the same as an 13.5ss?

Thanks in advance!

Jon
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Old 08-10-2008, 12:38 AM   #6412
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Hey Steve just a question regards rollout for a 17.5. I usually run a monster stock around 33mm rollout for a large track. Whats a good starting point for my 17.5 with heatsink? Some of the other 17.5's LRP are around 58mm rollout, but I want to be conservative to start with and work my way up without doing damage. I know to gear by temp but want to check a good start point.
Thanks Drew
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Old 08-11-2008, 12:40 PM   #6413
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Hey Drew,

Sorry about the delay in answering you!

I really don't have any experience or feedback from people running 17.5 on asphalt with foam tires ( I assume this is what you are running ... I know foam tires on asphalt is pretty popular down under)

But when I was crunching some numbers I thought I'd start out around 51 mm rollout... but it's hard to say how that stacks up compared to what the LRPs are running... I know some of those guys are running 14 mm sintered rotors in their motors...and that is going to dramatically change the gearing that the motor needs.

I would recommend running a shorter ratio and seeing how it fares for a few laps...bring it in, check the temp, and gear up a couple teeth a time.
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:53 PM   #6414
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Old 08-12-2008, 07:21 AM   #6415
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Hi Steve,

We're starting to test 13.5 brushless as an option to run together with 19turn brushed as per the current ROAR rules. Have you done this kind of head to head testing with the 13.5SS motors and 19turn brushed motors ? How close did you get the times ? What ended up quicker and by how much ?
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Old 08-12-2008, 08:57 AM   #6416
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Skitee,

Most people will say that the 13.5 brushless will have more torque/acceleration than the brushed 19T... but the brushed 19T might have more "free flowing rpm" ... they both get around the track a little differently from one another...but usually they are pretty close on times

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Hi Steve,

We're starting to test 13.5 brushless as an option to run together with 19turn brushed as per the current ROAR rules. Have you done this kind of head to head testing with the 13.5SS motors and 19turn brushed motors ? How close did you get the times ? What ended up quicker and by how much ?
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Old 08-12-2008, 05:36 PM   #6417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Skitee,

Most people will say that the 13.5 brushless will have more torque/acceleration than the brushed 19T... but the brushed 19T might have more "free flowing rpm" ... they both get around the track a little differently from one another...but usually they are pretty close on times
Agreed, in some of the informal testing we've done in my neck of the woods, betwem the 13.5 & 10.5 brushless & 27, 23 & 19 turn brushed motors, it seems the closest match is the 13.5 brushless & the 23 turn brushed(at least Tamiya's 23 turn motors, they seem to have a pretty similar power curve to the 13.5, based on how the 23 turn makes power & the way they both run ontrack), while a good 19 turn can have more top end power(as well as more rpm in general), so geared properly I'd give a slight edge to the 19 turn....
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:15 AM   #6418
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Old 08-19-2008, 05:32 AM   #6419
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Old 08-19-2008, 05:14 PM   #6420
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